As we reported a week ago, Western New York is in the flush of ramp season. After the story published, I was impressed by the number of readers who emailed me to tell me that they had taken my advice and picked a bundle for themselves. One reader added a post script, “But now what do I do with them?”
So we called Chef Mark Camalleri of 31 Club (who you may recall from the feature story we wrote last year.) Chef told us that he had just added fresh ramps to his menu the week before. “We only change our menu twice, a year, but we always have features,” Camalleri explained. Chef calls his seasonal dishes “features” instead of the more common, “specials”. His rationale is that all of his dishes are special, and he might be right. Today he’s made a quick and fresh pasta featuring the curious ingredient in question. These delicate and fragrant wild leeks are so prevalent in our region this time of year. Sweet and aromatic, ramps are reminiscent of a cross between a spring onion and garlic.
The trick with this very special, short-season ingredient is to use it in a way that showcases its gentle qualities rather than drowns them out. Chef Camellari is quick to note that ramps areas versatile as the shrimp spoken about in the film Forrest Gump, “You can serve ramps with anything. Ramps and beans, ramps and eggs, ramps and potatoes…or ramps and pasta,” which is just what Camalleri has in mind today.
“I could give your readers exact amounts but instead I think they should have fun and play with what works for their taste buds. Just be careful, or you may smell a bit like a ramp yourself!”
Chef Camalleri’s Ramp Pasta
Clean the ramps well under cold water and snip off the root. Know that you can use the greens as well as the bulbs, just like a scallion. In this recipe we’ll use both, but separate them since the bulbs require slightly longer cooking than the greens.
Fresh Roma Tomatoes
Ramps (bulbs and greens chopped separately)
Basil
Parsley
Grated Parmesan
Olive Oil
Anchovy Fillets
Pre-cooked al dente pasta
Add olive oil to a hot pan. Saute anchovy fillets, fresh chopped tomatoes and ramp bulbs. Add pasta to pan and toss. Add and toss fresh parsley, basil and parmesan. Serve immediately.
If you don’t have access to your own fresh ramp patch, or you’re simply too busy to bother, stop into 31 Club and enjoy having Chef Camalleri prepare the dish for you. Ramps are in season for only the blink of any eye, so sample them while you can.
31 Club
31 North Johnson Park
Buffalo, NY 14201
716.332.3131