Christa Glennie Seychew
restored, the 31 Club–a former night club turned supper club–located on the
corner of North Johnson and Elmwood, is a remarkable addition to the
neighborhood. Both the interior
and the exterior have been finished with an eye for subtle extravagance and
early, for once you sweep up the stairs, through the graceful front doors and tastefully
decorated entryway, a cocktail must be had at the luxurious horseshoe-shaped
bar. Often manned by Sonny, one of Buffalo’s most affable and well-respected
bartenders, guests can order from a good selection of wines by the glass
(though I had wished for prosecco) and top-notch cocktails. A handful of tables tickle the edges of
this elegant room, and in this writer’s estimation, it is the place to
see and be seen.
other areas of the restaurant’s varied and interesting layout, you will find a
modestly-sized room decorated with buttery tones, where sunshine or candlelight – depending
on the time of day – bounce from mirror to crystal to silver, creating unique
warmth and depth. Booths with moderately
tall banquettes covered in a fine grey-toned cloth line the narrower portions
of the building. At each table, bone
china sparkles and goblets gleam, and at every turn, fine fabrics, tasteful
wall-coverings and beautiful accoutrements tempt the eyes and ready the
palate. Before a sip of wine has been
swallowed or a nibble had, the sumptuousness of 31 Club’s décor will win you
the look of 31 Club pays homage to the era of the private supper club (with a nod
to modernity for good measure), the menu is New American with–according to Chef
Mark Camalleri–a touch of Basque, France, Spain and Italy. “But then we have steak,” Camalleri
says, “You’ve got to have the steaks, and a few extras, like the duck fries.”
the duck fat fries. With the
exception of the very balanced and delightful caponata and fresh bread that
arrived at our table, the duck fries were our first taste of 31 Club. Served in a Keller-esque cone lined with white
paper, they were perfectly prepared and delicately seasoned with truffle salt. (For those of you reeling at the
thought of enjoying fries cooked in piping hot duck fat, I’ve provided a
that may slow your palpitations).
In a portion large enough for our group to enjoy, the duck fries were a sure
the Executive Chef, Camalleri helped to put City Grill on the map in the 90s
and also assisted restaurateur Steve Calvaneso with the opening of Bacchus and Ya-Ya
Brewhouse. In recent years he’s
been responsible for the development of the suburban Embers Grill (a family
business owned by his step-parents).
appetizers pull from a broad range of influences; they include tuna tacos with
shells made from crisp won tons, and a play on a BLT (both pictured below). A pretzel crusted crab
cake, steamed mussels and a very popular lobster mac and cheese also make an
appearance. On my visit, there
were about a dozen starters in all, including specials. A small selection of soups and salads
were also available.
of the menu borrows from the Mediterranean region, as the chef mentioned. Chef tells me of his commitment to
using environmentally responsible ingredients. This can be found in both the free-range chicken breast
(served with a white bean stew) and the evening’s offering of a walleye pike
with almond butter. Camalleri
consults the well-respected Monterey Bay Seafood Watch list to ensure that any
seafood served at 31 is sustainably farmed or free of endangerment concerns (you
can download a regional pocket guide on the Monterey Bay website to ensure
you make similar choices at the supermarket).
table ordered the previously mentioned chicken, eggplant lasagna ($17) and a
pasta special (which wasn’t memorable).
I considered ordering either the veal chop served with crispy
sweetbreads ($45) or the Pekin duck (not to be confused with Peking Duck) which is served with
squash potato gratin and a wild huckleberry jus ($24.50).
I selected the rib chop, which came with the very autumnal accompaniments of
sweet potatoes, apple hash and cider sauce. Though its texture was very similar to Berkshire pork, it did not have
the same “wild” nuances one anticipates with that breed. Its tenderness and flavor profile led
me to assume that it had been brined, but Camalleri informed me that it was a
new type of pork, layered with all of the juiciness we have come to admire in a
breed like Berkshire, but without the muskiness or the price tag; it was only
$24, well below the price a Berkshire chop would fetch.
love to use what’s fresh. I like to be the first kid on the block to try things
if I can. I can’t stand it when
you go to a restaurant and they offer the same starch and the same vegetable for
every single dish on the menu.” Camalleri tells me. “That’s not “cheffing”, that’s being a cook. I like to design each plate
individually. I want people to experience
different textures and tastes with every plate.”
Nowhere is that more evident than in the steak portion of the menu. On the evening of my visit there is a
filet mignon served with a gorgonzola polenta cake, broccolini and a port wine
sauce ($36), a 14oz. strip dusted with black tea smoked cherry sea salt and
served with sautéed spinach and cheddar potatoes au gratin ($32), and a 16oz.
Delmonico with fingerlings and green beans ($34). I’m sure that most diners will appreciate that each entrée
is offered with unique side dishes (which at the guest’s request, can be
substituted at no extra charge for any of the other side dishes offered with
any other entrée on the menu). In
this respect, and many others, Chef goes out of his way to please his
guests. And although it is a
little odd given that each dish arrives with its own sides, a selection of
steakhouse-style sides are also offered (in portions appropriate for 2-3 people),
allowing guests the opportunity to sample and share tasty options like goat
cheese smashed potatoes ($7) and those lux duck fries ($7).
Club is open seven days a week, and strives to make its guests feel at
home. To this end, the restaurant’s
owners and Camalleri have begun a casual Sunday offering of housemade, old
fashioned lasagna. “We don’t want
to be a special occasion restaurant,” Camalleri says, “We want people to come
here and be comfortable and enjoy themselves.”
Camalleri cautions me that the menu is undergoing seasonal changes, and that
diners can expect to see some lighter fare and new selections sprinkled amongst
the restaurant’s crowd favorites.
Food critics (and even us lowly restaurant reviewers) appreciate that
any new restaurant should not really be judged until it has been open for a
fair number of months, allowing time for the staff to be trained, the menu to
be honed and the kinks to be worked out.
Conversely, the public clamors for stars to be awarded and verdicts
delivered upon the close of opening night. I think it will be interesting to see what 31 Club tastes
like six, or even three, months from now.
Watching a new restaurant find its niche is one of my favorite aspects of
new menu will roll out soon; keep an eye on their website for updates.
N Johnson Park