There is a small block on Franklin Street that separates the Theater District from Allentown from Chippewa. It acts as a gateway, a buffer zone, an unclaimed frontier. As I walk down this cantle of land, few buildings catch my eye. There are some parking lots, Darcy McGee’s, and a small but pronounced brownstone. As I approach the well-appointed building, the drapes dressing the front columns tell me I have arrived at an alluring, progressive Italian restaurant. Duo bridges the gap, not only between some of Buffalo’s favorite neighborhoods, but also its sophisticated and familiar pallets.
As I entered Duo I ran into the executive chef of the establishment, Martin Damilowicz. We talked about the ever-evolving menu of the restaurant and updates in product quality. “The first thing we did when we got here was get rid of all the canned fruit juice,” Martin laughed, motioning to the bar. “We emphasize quality at every corner.” He suggested I start the night off with one of Duo’s summer cocktails.
The juices for these beverages are fresh-squeezed and the syrups homemade. I first ordered the Basil Mojito ($8). This was not your run-of-the-mill Mojito. First and most obvious, it was made with basil (not mint), and mixed with grapefruit juice and gin (not rum). It had all the good elements of a traditional Mojito–cleanliness and refreshment–with none of the downfalls that can be accented by an amateur bartender, such as being too sweet or too grainy.
Martin and I later discussed the development of the menu. He expressed a sense of dedication and commitment to the food served at Duo. Martin, with the help of his sister and co-worker at Duo, chef Paula Damilowicz, has overhauled and improved on the menu of his predecessor. We discussed his travels to Italy and the many varieties of Italian cuisine Americans are unfamiliar with. At Duo, Martin is introducing Buffalo to high-end Northern Italian food, coupled with molecular gastronomy theory, a study of the physical and chemical properties of food preparation.
My visit to the restaurant pre-dated a menu change by one week (leaving me more to look forward to on my next visit). The new set of choices will have an expanded pasta section, serving eight homemade stuffed pastas. Martin is working with local growers to insure locally grown produce dominates the menu. He even plans on naming some of the dishes after the farmers who cultivate the fruits and vegetables used in them.
Before Martin returned to his duties in the kitchen, he suggested I engage in a blind tasting, something he encourages all patrons to take part in. For those of you unfamiliar with what a blind tasting is, the kitchen sends out several smaller portions throughout the night so you can experience the vast range of flavors the menu has to offer. The courses brought out at Duo were nicely paired with a glass of wine that compliments the flavors of the dish.
Before embarking on this culinary adventure, my waiter, Dave, asked me a few questions about food preferences and allergies. I told him I don’t eat veal and can’t drink rum; the kitchen took care of the rest.
The fest started with the soup de jour, cold mozzarella soup with basil ($6) and paired with a glass of Tormaresca Chardonnay from the Puglia region of Italy. This dish exemplified Chef Damilowicz’s gastro-Italian approach to cooking. When Dave told me what was coming out, the “cold” part didn’t register. I was thinking I was getting some kind of French onion soup. It all settled in, however, and I asked myself, How in hell do you make cold mozzarella soup?
Sure enough, it was served in front of me with a basil garnish. I wanted to hate it. I was, however, impressed. The texture of the soup coupled with the firmness of the basil warmed-up my palate with a truly mellow flavor. The oaky crispness of the Chardonnay rounded out the opening course.
As Dave removed my plate and briefed me on the upcoming entrees, I felt like I was on an episode of Top Chef. Every dish sounded more complicated and tastier than the last. The flavor combinations presented were unlike anything I’ve had in other Buffalo restaurants, like the Fig Puree Prosciutto Pizza. Served with a Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel from Sonoma, this pizza combined salty and sweet elements into a well thought out and hearty dish. The fig puree and the prosciutto played off of each other perfectly.
Next came an interesting item I can’t believe I never thought of myself, Teriyaki Eel over Parmesan Risotto. I could have eaten a thousand of them. As I wished every sushi place had a risotto section, I began to calculate the amount of time needed to prepare something like this. Those of you who have made risotto before know it is a painstaking task. The amount of time that must have gone into that tiny dish proved to me the love and affection Martin and his staff have for food.
Chef Damilowicz and I discussed the expanded pasta menu in great detail earlier in the evening. He went on about different types of tortellinis, raviolis, and stuffed shells planned for Duo’s next menu, so I was anxious to try some of his work. Out came mint and spinach ravioli stuffed with ricotta and covered in a Gorgonzola Dolce Sauce served with sparkling wine. The pasta cloaked my mouth with a velvety goodness, as the sparkling wine exploded the flavors like a flock of sheep that had wandered into a mine field. The ravioli pouch was thin and not doughy, almost like a fine dumpling. The hint of gorgonzola in the sauce gave a velvety zing that complimented the richness of the ricotta.
My knowledgeable and attentive waiter, Dave, told me my final entrée was to be wood oven roasted French cut chicken breast served with mushrooms and Roman gnocchi, made with semolina rather than potato ($21). At first I was hoping for some type of beef or seafood to end my night, so to say I was a little disappointed when I heard the kitchen’s selection is not an understatement. Dave brought the plate out, and I began to eat. I can’t believe I second guessed Martin’s choice. This rustic yet refined course satisfied my taste in every way possible. The soft gnocchi, more polenta-like than its potato counterpart, and the tender chicken, were delicious.
Duo is undoubtedly a modern and cutting edge restaurant. The grand and exquisite décor remind me of the most posh hotels of South Beach and the Caribbean, and I can guarantee you have never experience most of the food combinations presented on the menu.
Duo
297 Franklin Street
Buffalo, NY
716.858.4370
duowny.com
Support for Buffalo Rising comes from:
Support for Buffalo Rising comes from: