Buffalo Rising Online

Sage derby has become an increasingly popular cheese. The fact that it can be found at most cheese counters in Buffalo is a testament to that. Unfortunately, it has been most commonly relegated to the now ubiquitous turkey sandwich with cranberry mayo--though in Buffalo Le Metro deserves its props for being the first (and only for a long time) shop to serve this combination.

Made in England, this mild cow’s milk cheese was first introduced in the 17th century when it was incorrectly determined that sage had miraculous health benefits. Today, this cheese takes many forms, some far better than others. Though all versions are semi-firm and relatively tasty, the methods which are used in manufacturing vary.

The type most commonly seen in our area is heavily marbled, an effect caused by the addition of green vegetable dye which is added to the process during its curd stage. …

In Italian, “pepato” simply means peppery. An Italian sheep's milk cheese, Pecorino Pepato is a classic pecorino speckled with whole black peppercorns. Pepato is salty and sharp and the bite of the occasional peppercorn only adds to its intensity.

Pepato is not a protected name, which means that any pecorino producer can add peppercorn to their cheese and call it Pepato. I suggest that you look for a piece that has some age, something firm that can be cut into paper thin slices, which is my favorite way to use pepato. Shaved into a salad with a good olive oil, over eggs, fava or white beans, asparagus, or cauliflower, Pepato is a real winner. It's also a nice addition to mashed potaotes or pasta.

A younger, softer Pepato is milder and less salty and therefore more suited to snacking, especially with olives or cured meats. Even in its milder state, it can easily o…

I love a nice wedge of Morbier. When I was at Lexington Co-op the other day, this little beauty called to me from their well-stocked and more than adequate cheese department, and I’m so glad she did.

Morbier hails from the village of Morbier in the Comté region of France, also the home of delicious Gruyère de Comté. It is a semi-soft raw cow’s milk cheese with a full (yet not overpowering) flavor, slightly bitter aftertaste and fantastically stinky aroma. Morbier is most easily discerned by the thin layer of ash that runs through its center.

Yes, ash. Don’t let it unnerve you. The use of ash in cheese making is an ancient technique, a natural way in which farmers were able to not only preserve their product from pesky insects but to also inhibit the development of a hard rind.

In the case of Morbier, the layer covers not only the outside of the cheese, but als…

Named for the mountain range in South Wales where it is produced, Black Mountain cheddar cheese is a rich and flavorful semi-soft white made with cow's milk. The complex taste comes from the addition of white wine, garlic, and herbs, and is quite striking.

This cheese, purchased at the Lexington Co-op, shines as a stand-alone snack or appetizer with some hearty bread or crackers. Semi-soft white cheeses also pair well with amber and brown ales- try it with a glass of Newcastle Brown Ale for a hearty snack.

Because of the interesting flavor profile of the cheese, cooking options are pretty limited. It would make a great addition to a grilled cheese sandwich, blended with another cheddar. It can also be shredded and used as a topping with certain dishes (soup, for example).

The Lexington Co-op has a great selection of organic cheeses, including

The Co-op’s cheese selection isn’t the largest in town, but it never lets me down. In the last month we’ve explored the offerings of Yancey’s Fancy as well as Red Dragon. Today we’ll cover a simple Fontina.

Fontina is a cow’s milk cheese made in Italy, Sweden, Denmark and France. The wedge pictured above is a young Fontina, similar in texture to Monterey Jack. Mature Fontina is a harder cheese, and in the U.S. is not as popular as its softer companion. Gentle in flavor, it is great on a sandwich, in an omelet or plain with a nice piece of fruit. At $8.99 per lb., this nice tapered piece was less than $3.50.

The crackers I chose were on sale for only $1.79. Suzie’s Kamut Flat Breads are available in a few varieties but I opted for the sesame, a flavor I have a difficult time resisting. Kamut, an ancient Egyptian grain, is very high in vitamins, minerals an…

Editor's Note: "Frenchie" is a slang term used to describe a sandwich that is coated with batter and fried.

Last week, while browsing through a fine selection of Yancey‘s Fancy cheeses, I stumbled across a wedge of what may be a Buffalo dairy lover’s dream come true: Buffalo Wing Cheddar. For a city that prides itself on the humble little wing that could, I was hard pressed to find a better snacking cheese to accompany my night on the couch cheering on the Sabres. I immediately took it home, unwrapped the quaintly packaged wedge, and proceeded to smother a few crackers with the boldly hued concoction. The cheese didn't disappoint. It has a smooth, creamy texture with flecks of fiery red pepper. I was completely taken aback by the intensity of the heat. This is definitely not a cheese for the meek of palate. Those who have the ambition to conquer the heat will find …

Yancey’s Fancy is an award-winning cheese maker based in the Finger Lakes region. Their legacy begins with the settlement of founder Leo Kutter of Bavaria, Germany in the Cowelsville, NY area in 1926. There he worked as a maker of Limburger until the war began. After the war he moved to Corfu where he began his own company, manufacturing Swiss, brick and cheddar in addition to Limburger. Since then, the business had been handed down and has undergone many changes. Today, Yancey’s Fancy offers an extensive line of cheeses and cheese curds. Fortunately for us, a number of are available at the Lexington Co-op.

Yancey’s cheeses are extremely reasonable at only $5.99 per lb. I took home a nice wedge of aged cheddar made with “Finger Lakes Champagne”. It was bright and flavorful, the perfect addition to a piece of homemade apple pie.

Lexington Co-op, have I told you lately that I love you?

As of late, one of my favorite dining options has been a quick stop at the Co-op. For me, it’s the perfect place to grab lunch- loaded with fresh, yummy options for anyone that likes to graze. I love to graze. The sandwiches here are delicious, but grazing is more fun. A little of this, a little of that, pretty soon you have a one woman (or man) picnic.

The cheese offerings are really nice. Their prices are comparable to those elsewhere in the city, and the selection is well chosen. Yesterday, I just couldn’t settle on anything until I spotted the Red Dragon cheese. Red Dragon ($11.99 lb.) is a creamy English cheddar made of cow's milk, Welsh brown ale and whole grain mustard. It has a really pronounced flavor, very piquant and tangy. Especially enjoyable is the texture resulting from the mustard seeds. Thi…