Buffalo Rising Online

Jan 14th 2007, 7:02pm By Christa Glennie Seychew

Dressed in his trademark hand-dyed chef's coat and apron, Chef Roo of The Coda restaurant is an eloquent and intriguing figure. A graduate of the French Culinary Institute, Chef Roo is a globe trekker ,Aei a passion manifest in his culinary sensibilities, which he characterizes as, "Country global cuisine with an emphasis on French technique."

This month, YUM! asks Chef Roo to share his thoughts on a chef's life, eating in Buffalo, and his worldly inspirations.

Pork loin with red onion farci- Photo courtesy of The Coda's website

BRM: What is your favorite ethnic cuisine? Chef Roo: Chinese,AePin particular Guangdong, where I believe the culinary motto is: I bet you won't eat that! All parts and pieces of anything are fair game, and they love an adventurous foreigner who isn't fazed. As the saying goes, "Eat everything with legs, except the table; and eat everything that flies, except the airplane." Rat Snake in Garlic Hotpot with Saut/(c)ed Isinglass in Lemongrass, washed down with Cobra wine after a starter of Grilled Chicken Feet and Combs with Straw Mushrooms. Yummy! Foie gras is foie gras is foie gras; picking out your meal from a writhing gunnysack gives you more appreciation and respect for what you're going to eat.

BRM: Is there a popular chef that you admire? Chef Roo: Thomas Keller, for his love of the simple taste of food; and Ferran Adria, for his willingness to push the envelope. They are both so different and yet the same in their vision. Keller tries to bring attention to the flavors with precision of technique, Adria tries to isolate the flavors by breaking them down to their simplest pieces. I try and embrace both of their philosophies at The Coda,AePIt would help if I could get over my fear of liquid nitrogen and I had the room and the budget for a centrifuge and a thermocirculator.

BRM: What is the best thing about being a chef? Chef Roo: Learning constantly ,Aei about yourself, about people, about food, about thermodynamics, about Zen, about business, about taste, about balance, etc. I think that accounts for the fact that chefs are regarded as temperamental,AePnothing is ever solid in our world. Cuisine is like alchemy, and sometimes the tried and true ends up a lump of leaden slop instead of golden deliciousness.

BRM: What is the signature dish at The Coda? Chef Roo: The only standard menu item is the Cr/(R)me Brule, and I still tinker with the recipe in hopes of reaching perfection. The signature dish is the Experimental Ice Cream Flight, it presents the greatest challenges to me as a chef, presenting unique flavor combinations and wondering: Will this freeze?

The rest of Chef Roo's provocative interview can be found in January's issue of BRM.

The Coda 350 Pennsylvania 716.362.0435 www.the-coda.com