Buffalo Rising Online

Jul 16th 2007, 10:51am By Christa Glennie Seychew

Steak cut, waffle cut, hand cut, battered, crispy, seasoned, soggy, greasy and salty- Buffalo is home to myriad burger, wing, pizza and hot dog joints, all serving up their version of the often good, sometimes disappointing and occasionally amazing French fry.

There’s debate over the provenance of the ubiquitous cut and fried take on the tuber, but the most prevalent American perception lays credit at the feet of the French (who themselves credit Belgium). A few generations ago, Americans associated fries with the halcyon days of sock hops and drive-in burger joints replete with waitresses on wheels and Coke that came in bottles made of green glass. Today the average American is more likely to link them with national fast food chains. Fast fries are better than no fries, but they certainly don't measure up to the real thing.

My hunt for the best fries in Buffalo took me to another staple of local Americana: bowling alleys. Recckio's and Kenmore Lanes both offer huge and inexpensive piles of perfectly prepared fries. Other bowling alleys offer decent fries, but these two really have it down. It's my hunch that alley fries are particularly good because of the infrequency with which the oil in the fryer is changed--but that's just my guess, and it is by no means a complaint. In fact, on one occasion, I am guilty of having taken the kids to the bowling alley just to get fries.

Another fry seriously worthy of mention can be found at O'Connell's Hourglass where lucky patrons dine on pommes frites fried in duck fat- sheer heaven.

To further my quest, I pinged some of the folks I know that love Buffalo as much as I do- the BR staff. I sent out a blanket email and within a few hours had many responses, some even tinged with passion. I thought you might find the conversation interesting so I've included it below.

The BR staff responds to my email asking, "Where in Buffalo can you get the best fries?":

I was just having this conversation with Barry Heneghan earlier today. He's convinced the fries at Swannie House are arguably the best in the city. Not having tried them myself, my favorite are from Mr. Pizza. Odd, I know, and remarkably inconsistent, but when they're on, they're crispy and straight cut--outside, almost double fried. So wrong and trashy. A guilty, glorious, capricious pleasure. -George Johnson

As far as I am concerned anyplace where you can dump some vinegar salt and ketchup on them. That is a WNY thing that is not common in places like Chicago. I used to crave Ted's fries. I am not sure if they have a Buffalo shop anymore. Also if they pass the fries out to you through a little window (not including drive thrus) you are pretty much assured of great fries. -Steel

Okay, I really had no idea where to get good fries, until Steel mentioned Ted's... it's a chain but it's local. Their seasoned curly fries are by far the best around. Plus a milkshake on the side. Other than that I cannot be of service... most places I know have shitty fries ( the bastards)! -Anna Miller

Do Anderson's curly fries count? They are a chain, but they are locally owned and they have a location in the City. I don't eat French fries anywhere else really, only because I don't usually eat fries. I usually get a burger, French fries and a chocolate shake at Anderson's once in a blue moon. Every time, I try to talk myself into the fact the shake has "dairy" products and therefore outweighs me eating the fried and greasy food of the burger and fries! OK - maybe I go there more than "once in a blue moon", but the curly fries are darn good! -Lacy Abbott

Papa Jake's on Elmwood does (or used to do) hand-cut fries. Sometimes fries are merely a conveyance for ketchup and salt, but when they're newly cut...they're crazy. -Elena Cala Buscarino

Good LORD, Geo -- nice to see you wax poetic about fries! I will vouch for having vinegar available automatically -- which puts Ted's in the running. Their curly fries are so close to natural it's scary. But I'm also a HUGE fan of gravy, (I think I spent my junior year in college on fried bologna and onions and french fries with gravy at Amy's Place) which also brings up Louie's on Elmwood. Crispy outside, tender and steaming on the inside, with the thick rich gravy you can stand a spoon up in. So much for breakfast. -Gabrielle Bouliane

Louie's on Elmwood also has amazing sweet potato fries...they give you melted butter and honey to dip them in. I love them! -Lacy Abbott

I could live on those sweet potato fries at Louie's. I also love the fries at Pearl Street. Hearty potato wedges, like a baked potato on the inside and extra crispy outside. I also like that they stay crispy after you douse them in malt vinegar. -Sarah R. Stone

You are right...Pearl Street does make some totally terrific fries. I think style/cut and the seasoning does it for me. -Nicole Crumbaugh

I too like the curly fries at Ted's with vinegar. I just had fries at Papa Jakes, and they were not as crispy as I like. Sweet potato fries are not true fries, even though they are awesome. I prefer double fried fries. Besides the Chop House were else do they make them like that? -Alphonse DiMino

Papa Jakes have the edge for hand cut fries but I have to go with Ted's or even Jim's Steakout for classic, crispy, delicious fries. -Emilie Reister

I have to say that my favorite fries in town are at Jim's Steakout. You have to eat them right away for them to be at their best, but still. -hippiegrrl


Okay, readers, now it's up to you to tell us where in the city you get the best fries. What do you think makes them the best? We wanna know- don't you?