Buffalo Rising Online

Jun 2nd 2007, 8:36am By Adam Fix

Summer is on its way, and with it the opportunity to sample a new host of beers brewed especially for consumption during the coming months (author’s note: the preceding statement is a thinly-veiled attempt at saying “here’s an excuse to drink more beer”).

This summer, drink as the Germans and Belgians have for hundreds of years- try an unfiltered wheat beer. There are two common varieties: the German-style Hefeweizen, and the Belgian-style Witbier. Commonly enjoyed with a slice of fruit (often lemon), these beers are crafted to be crisp, refreshing, and flavorful. They are light and easy to drink, and a natural next-step for those who haven’t ventured far beyond beers of the Coors and Labatt variety.

When drinking an unfiltered wheat beer, it is important to enjoy it in a tall glass (if you have one that is slightly tapered at the top, even better). This way, the head is allowed to form and the aromas are released. Pour into a tilted glass, and stop with a quarter of the bottle remaining. Swirl the bottle around, releasing the yeast sediments that have settled, and finish the pour, creating the head.

Hefeweizens commonly have a hazy, pale gold color, with a thick and long-lasting head. The flavor is sweet, with hints of banana and clove, and hop bitterness is very low. When done well, a Hefeweizen will have a well-rounded feel, with an assortment of flavors complementing each other to produce a tart, citrusy taste. They are often highly carbonated, which makes them easy to drink and refreshing.

There are a wide variety of Hefeweizens readily available. You should be able to find JW Dundee’s Hefeweizen and Saranac Pomegranate Wheat at the corner store.

JW Dundee’s attempt seems bland and uninspired, with a head that quickly dissipates and very low flavor content. The wheat and carbonation are readily apparent, but hints of citrus and malt flavor are fleeting. Saranac Pomegranate Wheat, although not technically a Hefeweizen, adds a unique twist to the unfiltered wheat beer genre by brewing this variety with pomegranate juice. Although the juice flavor was far too overpowering for my taste (it seems more like pomegranate juice with beer flavor than the other way around), I am sure this will be a popular brand in the coming months.

More flavorful (and thereby, of course, more expensive) varieties can be found at the Premier Gourmet store (corner of Delaware and Sheridan, 14217). One of my favorites, Franziskaner Hefe-Weisse, is a German import that has a well-balanced and robust flavor, with hints of clove, vanilla, and citrus. It retains a rich, tall head and ends dry with very low hop bitterness.

For a more local twist on this variety, check out Brewmaster Jay Malone’s Waterfront Wheat, on tap at the Pearl Street Grill and Brewery. It features prominent banana and clove flavors and, since it is brewed and served in-house, it feels more crisp and refreshing than most.

Witbiers share many characteristics with Hefeweizens (low hop bitterness, crispness, light color). The distinguishing factors include the flavors, which often contain hints of orange and coriander, and the ingredients (some use 5-10% oats in addition to the wheat and barley).

Brands such as Blue Moon Belgian-style wheat beer (made by Coors) and Hoegaarden Original White Ale (imported) are reviving the popularity of this style. Blue Moon is easier to drink for those less experienced with Witbiers; enjoyed with a slice of orange it is sweet and tart. Hoegaarden has a more unique look- with light yellow to cream color- and prominent orange and coriander flavors. Both are on tap at many local watering holes.