Buffalo Rising Online

Jan 6th, 12:56pm By Christa Glennie Seychew

When the well-known and loved Just Pasta closed its doors after more than a decade of good food and great service, it shocked many. Within a few years, two successive restaurateurs took their turns trying to reinvigorate the space, but it seems that operating under the name Just Pasta, a choice both businesses made, was more of a curse than a passing of the torch.

When its current owners arrived, the neighborhood breathed a sigh of relief. Fears that the restaurant would stand empty were quelled. Not only would the new owners open the restaurant with a different name, they also had more than a decade of restaurant experience under their belts. Dave Cosentino and Jerry Clementi already owned and operated one of Elmwood’s anchor establishments, Caffe Aroma on Bidwell, along with the successful trio on Main Street in Williamsville of Caffe Aroma (now Sea Bar), Trattoria Aroma and Vino Aroma, their fine wine boutique.

When they heard that the space on Bryant was available, they were excited. Called Trattoria Aroma, but known to the staff as Aroma Downtown, this new Italian restaurant made its mark right out of the gate. Riding in on their reputation and quickly receiving rave reviews from every critic in town, Trattoria Aroma has proven to be a perfect fit for the Elmwood Village.

The frescos that have always adorned the walls remain unchanged. The mood is light and people stop in to grab a pizza and a glass of wine or to engage in more formal gatherings and celebrations. Cosentino and Clementi’s extensive travels to Europe inspire everything here--the ambiance, the service, the wine list, and most notably, the food.

Both Northern and Southern Italian food can be found on the menu, though it is unlikely that you’ll ever see meatballs or lasagna here. Instead of heavy breading, the calamari appetizer is pan fried with olives, roasted red peppers, spinach, capers and lemon brown butter. The bruschetta is more than the typical soggy bread topped with oil and limp tomatoes, instead it is a crusty Calabrian bread covered with quality buffalo milk mozzarella, tomato, asparagus, fennel, carrot, herbs and a red wine and shallot vinaigrette. I strongly recommend the Tagliata di Manzo; always perfectly prepared, it consists of grilled sirloin, risotto and shaved parmesan. The housemade Italian sausage appetizer is also delicious, served with sautéed dandelion greens, tomato, roasted garlic, and red onion; it’s not to be missed.

The pasta menu is a refreshing change; each that I’ve sampled has been excellent. The carbonara is superbly executed. The Carciofi con Pollo of penne, roasted chicken, artichokes, leeks, spinach, sun dried tomatoes and walnut pesto cries for a mopping of the dish with a piece of soft bread. Pappardelle alla leper takes the best of braised rabbit and combines it with lovely, delicate pasta and a light sauce. One of my favorites is sadly only available at lunch--another penne with chicken, but this time in the form of sausage served in a roasted garlic cream along with porcini and rapini.

Beef short ribs braised in Barolo lead the entrée portion of the menu and they ought to. Amazingly tender and loaded with flavor, one could eat them with a spoon. The accompanying butternut squash orzo with porcini and tomato ragu lends fantastic depth and texture--this dish sings in the mouth. The lamb chops are also delicious; underneath the perfectly grilled beauties lay wedges of fingerling potato and sautéed spinach, pancetta and mushrooms--all heightened by the addition of a perfectly balanced mint and pistachio pesto. Duck “Due Modi” provides real foodies with the tempting fowl in two fashions- a seared breast and a braised leg are served with caramelized leeks and a cherry balsamic sauce over farro and crispy prosciutto.

Roman style pizza is very popular at lunch and dinner; the paper thin crust enhanced with a thin layer of sauce and a smattering of toppings. The Margherita is one of the most popular, with flavorful tomato sauce and basil standing out against the soft, mild, fresh mozzarella that is pulled by hand in-house. The Capriciossa is a special treat; mouth watering crispy prosciutto, artichokes, mushrooms, black olives and a touch of tomato sauce are even better when dipped into the yolk of the egg that sits at the center of the lot. Also of note is the Funghi made with wild mushrooms, caramelized onion, mellow fontina and luscious truffle oil.

At Trattoria Aroma, there’s no question that the ingredients, the components of each dish, are all of top quality. Chef Keith Dulak ensures that the red peppers are freshly roasted, the bread baked, the sausage crafted, the desserts made from scratch and much of the mozzarella made in house. During growing season a good portion of the kitchen’s produce comes from the Niagara region. They also import some of the best cured meats I’ve ever had. If you don’t believe me try one of the many Piatto Freddos, combinations of cheese, olives and meats priced for two.

Trattoria has also been heralded for its wine list. Decidedly Italian with an eye for quality and value, it’s a refreshing change from many of the lists we see in Buffalo. A wide variety of regions and varietals are represented. There are plenty of smooth and accessible choices, but also options for those who don’t shy away from good earth or a wine that is chewy. A dark, inky Vino Noble stands proudly just a few selections away from a very light Barbera and an Amarone with great finesse. The single glass options are nice too; the 2000 Super Tuscan currently on the menu is a superb choice for someone willing to pay $10 for a fantastic glass of wine but not $40 for a bottle. Prosecco is also available by the glass, an option I wish we saw more often. The wine list, both by the bottle and by the glass, changes regularly--there’s always something new to try.

“People in Buffalo know how to eat,” Breen Shea said during a recent visit. His position with the restaurant is best described by the title that appears on his business card: “The General”. “They’re well-traveled, they know good food and they’re willing to pay for it,” he said.

Naysayers may laugh at that concept, but Shea speaks from the mindset of someone who sees Buffalo differently than a native. Having graduated from the New England Culinary Institute, waited tables at the estates of some of Napa’s finest vineyards, worked as a chef in the kitchen at The French Laundry and dined at some of the world’s most famous restaurants, Shea’s perception of Buffalo’s dining culture is that of an experienced transplant. “This is a special place for people,” he says, referring to the original Just Pasta. “We’re here to provide a great experience. We’re a neighborhood restaurant; we see the same faces over and over again.” And a lot of those people are some of Buffalo’s culinary elite. Many of the city’s most recognizable chefs and restaurant owners are regulars here and so is their staff. A great menu and a good wine list brings restaurant people and those that enjoy a quiet fine meal out on Sundays and Mondays--days when most restaurants are closed.

Often food critics end up basing their star ratings on a single visit, and though I do not consider myself a critic, I feel that doing that is unfair to the diner and the establishment. I am tremendously confident about sending you to Trattoria Aroma on Bryant. In the many times that I have visited I have always had a truly good meal and I’m quite sure that you will say the same. In an industry where consistency is key, Trattoria succeeds.

Trattoria Aroma
307 Bryant Street
Buffalo, NY 14222
716.881.7592