Then and Now: Massive Change


The Nemmer Building started out life as the New Great Lakes Theater. Later it came under control of the Paramount movie studios and was renamed. For much of the 20th century it was at the nexus of Buffalo's entertainment district. It was not Buffalo's most grand movie palace but was still quite elaborate and seated about 3000 people. As recently as the early 60's this block was extremely vibrant. It was packed with theaters, restaurants and nightclubs. In very short order it crashed. By the 1970's this area now known as the Theater District was mostly vacant. Building owners stopped investing in their property and the grand old movie palaces either closed down or converted to low budget and X-rated fare.

Nearby Chippewa Street became Buffalo's red light district. Decent people in Buffalo spent little if any time in this area anymore. After the theater closed (I am not sure when) the auditorium portion at the rear was demolished and the front (Main Street) portion was converted to retail use. The old theater facade was unusual in that it was very restrained with a simple solid brick wall decorated with a diamond pattern of multi colored brick.

There were a few very modest classical details. Compare this picture to Sheas Buffalo Main Street facade. It was not a very attractive building especially with its huge vertical movie sign and marquee removed. The front facade looked very much like a common 1920's building type designed for "fire proof" storage. I am guessing that this is very likely what it was used for above the grand theater lobby.

Seen (top photo) in its final days, wearing its original cladding, it is a very sad sight. Making it even a more depressing sight is the fact that the photo was taken from a vacant lot across the street. That lot was made vacant to create an "attractive" shovel ready site for developers which would eventually be filled with a hotel. During this period the city put tremendous effort into revitalizing this (600) block of Main. Part of the plan was to develop the Paramount with a focus on housing. It was thought that housing at this location could kick start a 24/7 downtown environment.

After many fits and starts the building was finally completed. Several additional floors were constructed on top of the original concrete frame and the building was re-clad in shiny blue glass. A parking structure was also added at the back (more on that one in the future). The only hint of ‘what was’ are the arched entry ways at the first floor and two small classical column capitals about 2/3 up the facade. The result is not an award winner but is certainly an improvement.
Color exterior image thanks to Patsy at Cinema Treasures. Black and white images thanks to Buffalofreenet.org; "Now" image thanks to WCP

It didn’t take long to find an owner for the dollar house on Niagara Street. As a matter of fact, the dollar house now has three owners… three friends who are all about to graduate from the School of Architecture and Planning at the University at Buffalo. When they learned that there was a house for sale on Niagara Street for one dollar (see original post), they didn’t quite believe it. Joseph DiPerna thought it was a joke at first. But he told his buddy A.J. Hibsch about th …
There's a 96-foot tall ship coming to port on Saturday, May 10 at noon. The ship, christened Challenge, and built to resemble an 1800’s era schooner, will dock in the Buffalo Harbor carrying a new craft brew into the United States.
Labatt company officials, who were at first keeping a lid on the name of the craft brew, have now disclosed that the ship will carry barrels of Alexander Keith’s Traditional Lager that will be distributed for the first time in the United States. …
A sale of a vacant or under-utilized property offers hope. Hope that the new owner has the means and vision to bring the property back to life. Oftentimes properties are purchased by investors only looking to milk a property or to hold on to it for speculative purposes with minimal investment. With seven properties for sale on two blocks in the heart of downtown, the turn-over in ownership could mean changes for the better.
The seven properties are, or in two cases were, Hunt …
It's going to be an interesting evening tonight when Buffalo Superintendent of Schools comes before the school board to discuss his yearly performance evaluation along with the possibility that he may be leaving Buffalo for a similar job in Memphis Tennessee.
One of five finalists looking for the Memphis job, Williams would be awarded with a salary of $260K, a raise of nearly 20 percent over his current salary.
Williams announced the potential job at a BPS Board of Education com … 



Comment Options
vgs
still no people on the street but so so much better, I remember when nothing was open north of Huron St, no Key Towers, Bank of America, Radisson, City Center, Market Arcade of even Sheas, and the Hyatt was new too. We often forget what progress has been made. And Chippewa 15 yerars ago , forget about it.
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vgs
still no people on the street but so so much better, I remember when nothing was open north of Huron St, no Key Towers, Bank of America, Radisson, City Center, Market Arcade of even Sheas, and the Hyatt was new too. We often forget what progress has been made. And Chippewa 15 yerars ago , forget about it.
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allthingsbuffalo
that top picture could quite possibly be the most depressing picture of downtown buffalo ever. looks like something from a soviet satellite nation.
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Andrew
Wow i never knew. I´m glad i wasnt alive to see that! I guess tons of progress has been made.
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urbanboarder
Very interesting article. I had to do a double take on that first picture, I thought it was the Donovan building at first glance. I am shocked that was the heart of downtown less than 30 years ago. Its amazing that the columns along the entrance could even be saved. Very nice article, although I don't think many people understand the magnitude and devastation that Urban Renewal policies had on our city over the past fifty years.
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sbrof
wow what a change.. I never realized that it was actually a renovated structure. Always assumed they demolished and started fresh. Great article. I did notice the strange capitals on the building but just thought it was the architect try to be relate to the historic...
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galaxyjay
That is crazy...I'd love to see more of these transition pics if possible
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NBJOHN
Street car rails in the pic of the theratre front.... neat
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onestarmartin
Very cool, also did not know it was "reclad". I love stories like this one. I also agree, the first photo is very depressing looking. It may not be an "award" winner as you mention, but I have to say it is far more than just an improvement. Considering it's age already, it is a pretty nice looking building.
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Biniszkiewicz
I remember first hearing of the City Centre project and thinking: that'll never happen. I never knew Nemmer's was originally a theater. When I was in high school and 18 was the drinking age, we'd drive from Cheektowaga to Chippewa to see the hookers. When Mark Goldman opened the Calumet, he was the lone ranger. Good to see success lasting here.
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Perry
Interesting story! Since I work right across the street from City Centre, you've added a whole new perspective to my work neighborhood.
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simcoe
Sorry to disappoint you all, but the top picture is actually the Chernobyl nuclear facility, he's lying.
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stephenjames716
very cool article. thanks for the pics. are there anymore showing the main st. area around the time of the first picture?
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MJWorthington
Just insane looking at the mid 80's picture. We need more of these types of articles to show the progress that has been made around here. These individual pieces over time are hard to notice when you see them everyday, or maybe never even have seen them at all.
We have along way to go but a good amount has also been done over the past 20 years.
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Joshua
It almost seems like a vast wasteland around the old theatre. Now to get cars back on Main st.
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Texpat10
If I recall correctly the steel frame of the original building was saved and used in City Centre because of some historic status. It was kind of a joke. The project was supposed to be a completely new structure but thay had to incorporate the frame into the new building. It nearly scrapped the project. I find it hillarious that the steel frame of this mess had to be saved while truly important structures are torn or fall down every day. It took quite a while for this project to sell out and become successful so I am glad that, by and large, it is now.
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GDC
I would'nt want to walk around Main Street back then either after looking at this image. What a difference for the better.
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willt
Good story, too bad it ended with a negative comment. He's probably correct, the City shoud have waited (and waited)for an award winning project with an award winning architect . I wonder what awards Mr. Steel has won? Please enlighten us Buffalonians.
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ExWNYer
I worked downtown at a law firm around the corner when I was back from college and can rememeber that building and the transformation. It happened pretty fast too. They knocked down the brick and there was a steel skeleton and then they added maybe 5 more floors? By the time I was back for the holidays, it was pretty much done. The condo building was a risk at the time, I recall, as it was kind of the first project like it and they weren't sure if it would fly. Having people live in the downtown core like that was a novel idea. These days there are many projects so we don't think twice about it. I think it took a while for them to sell all of them, but now I hear it is really hard to get ahold of one of those units these days. I bet another building located there as oppossed to the waterfront would be a success. Also, the Key Center was going up right across the street so that was kind of a mini boom for Buffalo. The Calumet was re-developed around that time. That area turned the corner quickly. It is the prime example of what happens when private developers have a vision and take a chance. It boggles my mind that a building like that was once downtown. That was allowed to stand yet, the Larkin was taken down. It's no wonder that outsiders came to Buffalo in the 60's and 70's and came away with a bad impression. That was our entertainment district? Albania was prettier and funner.
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Hodge_Podge_Ave
I second what sbrof wrote... I was gonna write basically the same thing, but he beat me to it!
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Wit
Interesting story. I've always loved looking at the City Center building... it just makes me happy to see it, especially when the clouds reflect in its windows on a sunny day. No complaints with the architecture here, obviously... I think it looks strong, but dreamy... and maybe just a little bit futuristic. Oddly hopeful.
Good change from the above photograph!
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Texpat10
These units were very hard to sell initially and I think some were even rented out. Within the last 10 years or so the building became popular and values rose as demand was strong. I understand that now, though, values have fallen. A high floor two bedroom unit that sold two years ago for $320,000 re-sold recently for $270,000. The association fees on that unit are $1,000 per month. I don't know if it is the association fees, the market overall or some other factor that has contributed to the decline.
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NewBuffalo
Buffalo at its ROCK BOTTOM....thank GOD things have improved....lets hope the future is bright and development continues...
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STEEL
To those looking for more stories like this you can look back through BRO's archive. I have done several of them. I will do my best to find some and post them here.
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chris69
The Great Lakes Paramount was considered in its day one of the best of all the Great Lakes Cities beating out Detroit and Cleveland is not something to take lightly. It may not have had as much adornment as the Sheas but it had a huge reputation.....to which frankly is Buffalos loss because today the Great Lakes Paramount would have been the perfect home for a downtown center for UBs Performing Arts.
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anyoltime
it may not be a an architectural wonder but its beautiful in its own way and any city should be thrilled to have it. not every building needs to be a masterpiece even though it is nice when a building can get a new life. a spattering of this style of buildings all over downtown would do it no harm at all.(as long as thers demand)
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STEEL
here is a link to another story about this block
http://www.buffalorising.com/story/remember_this#sca
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Sal
Texpat10 - You're correct in stating that these units were hard to sell initially and some were rented out. The City of Buffalo bailed out the developer by buying several units through BURA, then re-sold them at a substantial discount (something like $50,000 on a $135,000 unit) to the politically-connected of the time.
That being said, there was a dramatic improvement in the streetscape here. Great article on the history of the building also.
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RisingDamp666
What I miss about those old decrepit structures that dotted Post-Crash Buffalo are the water tanks. Nothing says city like water tanks. The new ( or mostly new) replacement is just fine but reflective glass is just too dehumanizing to this particular area. And there should be more and taller towers around this block. Super dense high rise development will work here and no one should be shy about breaking the forty story plane.
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vgs
not 30 years ago urbanboarder more like 15-17 years. I think City Center was like 1991 and Market Arcade was after that.
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WCPerspective
I have a follow-up piece coming on City Centre's rocky history.
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P525
Love these before & after pieces -- reminds us that some things, while not all at the point we'd want them, have significantly improved. I remember the Paramount and its later demise as the Nemmer Bldg. So many decrepit and abandoned bldgs on this block that the City put up plywood on all the facades and had local artists paint murals to give the street some visual interest pending moves to renovate the structures. Back then, the first "curtain up" party was held across Chippewa Street from the Nemmer -- hosting a whopping 500 people in a tent on the dirt lot of the then-recently demolished Grants Store -- now Key Center, Bank of America, and Fountain Plaza. How things have truly changed...
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Joshua
An amazing Main St. picture in 1957: < a href="http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/GuanoReturns/Out%20of%20State%20Theaters/Buffalo%20NY%20Paramount%20aka%20Great%20Lakes%20Theater/?action=view¤t=Paramount1957.jpg"> Paramont 1957
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georgethomasapfel
Great find Joshua, I cleaned up the link and this should take you there: Paramount Theatre 1957
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Joshua
george - thanks, I posted it without looking at my syntax closer. You have to agree that it is an absolutely amazing picture of Main St.
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