Buffalo Rising Online

Sep 12th 2006, 6:59pm By Christa Glennie Seychew

When translated, La Dolce Vita means ithe sweet lifei. Our local version of La Dolce Vita carries plenty of sweet and savory treats. Upon entering the Hertel Avenue eatery, you will find a tempting display of homemade gelato, cakes from Sweet Tooth and delicate Italian cookies from Mamma Maria's. Mamma Mariais cookies are baked in a Colvin Avenue home by the previous owneris mother. iWhy change a good thing?i says Ross Runfola, owner. iIf I run low on cookies, I make a call and then theyire here, fresh and delicious, within a day or two. People love these cookies.i

They also offer traditional Italian fare. Sfogliatelle di Spinace is always lauded by local food reporters. Soft, tender puffs of filo dough filled with sautEed spinach, roasted red peppers and fresh mozzarella are served with a combination of pesto cream sauce and roasted red pepper coulis. The Pollo alla Parmigiana is a generous portion that is so large it hangs off the plate. The Vitello, veal dusted in flour and sautEed with a white wine and mushroom sauce, is a favorite. Instead of using the typical veal cutlet, La Dolce purchases veal medallions and pounds them out. Throughout our discussion, Rossi credo seemed to be iIid rather pay a little more and have a better producti.

Although there are a number of Italian-style establishments on Hertel Avenue, there doesnit seem to be any shortage of clientele. iI love being here, weive got so many great restaurants in Buffalo; there really isnit any reason to eat at a chain.i Ross told me. iHertel is known for its Italian cuisine, but there are so many other kinds of places to go too, like Gramma Morais, Fiamma Steak, and the new Pangaea.i

But, what we are really here to talk about today is pizza. I know, I know, what in the world could I possibly convey to a Buffalonian about pizza? Well, this pizza is special because all of its ingredients come from local shops. iBuffalo needs our help. We all need to do everything we can. I love to go to local places like Latinais or Boulevard Produce which is a sister company of Latina foods.i Ross explains. iShopping locally means that things are fresher and I donit have to wait for a truck to deliver my order. If I am out of something, the salesmen will often bring it right to me. Thatis the kind of service I like to have.i

Today, Chef Rocco Notte is preparing the restaurantis namesake, a pizza pie called La Dolce Vita. Although he is relatively new to La Dolce, Chef Rocco has used his creativity and classical training to delight Buffalo with Italian dishes for a number of years; and heis done it well. In 2005 he won awards at Taste of Buffalo & Taste of Williamsville.

One of the most important- and most delicious- components in this pie is the dough. In my opinion, much of the pizza dough in Buffalo is either poorly made or under cooked (such heresy!). This is not a problem for La Dolce Vita. Ginois Bakery, just a short walk down Hertel from La Dolce, is Rossi supplier. When I called the bakery, I spoke with Jennifer. She informed me that customers can come in off the street to purchase their own ball of fresh, yeasty goodness. At only 99c a bag, it really doesnit make any sense not to.

In this recipe, the red sauce is found strictly at La Dolce Vita- and it is fabulous. Flavorful and elegantly seasoned, it works perfectly with the pizzais very distinct toppings, neither overpowering them nor disappearing beneath them. For your sauce recipe, Iim afraid you are on your own. Trying to get a pizza sauce recipe from an Italian chef is harder than trying to wrestle a chicken wing out of the hand of an expatriate. Many local stores carry their own versions; Wegmans has one that is quite nice. Or, if youid like, many a recipe can be found online.

Today, our pizza will use a number of classic imported ingredients. All of the toppings come from a local market, Latina Foods. For approximately 50 years, they have supplied Western New York with a host of fine imported items.

The following measurements are for a 12i round. They are approximate. As with all good chefs, Rocco Notteis ingredients are measured as ea pinch of this, a handful of thati. As with all pizzas, please use the quantity that you feel most comfortable with.

La Dolce Vita Pizza

Fresh dough (preferably the exquisite version obtained at Ginois Bakery) _ cup of really good pizza sauce 3 oz. of prosciutto 2 tbsp. capers 4 or 5 artichoke hearts _ cup kalamata olives 1 cup shredded mozzarella 2 tbsp. olive oil

Preheat your oven to 450()()

Rip the prosciutto into pieces. Slice the kalamatas and artichoke hearts.

Flour your board and your pizza dough. You can hand-stretch or roll your dough. I generally roll mine out about halfway and then toss it in the air about 12 times. This can cause a bit of a mess. I usually end up with some flour in my hair and on the floor, but, I find that it makes the crust lighter than rolling it the entire time. It is also one of the few things that can cause you to laugh out loud at yourself while in your own kitchen.

I like the pizza my friends make where the dough is an odd shape, stretched out on a rectangular baking sheet, but I really canit seem to get the hang of that. Make the pizza as thick or as thin as you like. Iive found that Ginois dough really lends itself to a thicker crust.

Place the pizza on your piel. If you do not have one, make sure that your dough ends up with plenty of flour between it and your cutting board- some people use a bit of cornmeal. Otherwise, it makes it difficult to successfully transfer it to the oven once laden with its toppings. I prefer to cook my pizza directly on the oven rack. A pizza stone is a beautiful thing, if you have one thatis been hanging out in a bottom cupboard for a while, please use it. If neither of these are an option, a baking sheet will do, but it does not give you the optimum product.

Once youive completed the process of shaping your pizza, you can add the sauce and the toppings.

Place your pizza in the oven. Baking time can range from 10 to 25 minutes depending on the thickness of your dough. Until youive made this a few times, you may need to baby-sit it. Just before itis done, pull out your rack/stone/baking sheet and brush the edges with olive oil. Now pop it back in for just a minute or two. Chef Rocco does this because waiting until the end to brush your crust makes it perfectly crispy on the outside, while retaining its tender chewiness inside.

Todayis recipe is a delectable component to a casual dinner at home with friends. Once youive mastered it, I strongly urge you to consider experimenting with some unique toppings at home. Two of my personal favorites are pizzas that are cooked upon the grill. One is dressed with butter, fresh peaches and plums, honey and cinnamon. The other is comprised of strawberries and goat cheese. Give these a whirl before itis too chilly to huddle over your grill!

La Dolce Vita is a lovely, moderately priced establishment in which to enjoy a nice glass of wine and a delicious Italian meal. Diners wear suits and jeans, so anyone will feel comfortable here. It would be a good idea to stop by for a quick gelato while the sidewalk patio is still open. It is located at 1472 Hertel Avenue. Reservations can be made by calling 446-5690.

Gino's Bakery is located at 1368 Hertel Avenue. It offers a variety of quality baked goods to those wise enough to pass through its door.

There are a number of Latinais in the area, including Niagara Falls, Tonawanda and Buffalois Elmwood Avenue.