Buffalo Rising Online

Sep 10th 2005, 10:05pm By queenseyes

By Newell Nussbaumer

Just off Symphony Circle sits The Coda Restaurant, an establishment that blends quiet sophistication with a contemporary culinary flare that one might find while dining at one of Manhattan's hidden haunts. The term coda signifies the different finish of a musical composition, but it is the crescendo that owners Roo and Keren Buckley have been dreaming of for quite some time.

Roo, a Buffalo native, trained at the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan, and had the opportunity to study under such greats as Alain Sailhac, Jacques P"pin, Andr" Soltner, and Jacques Torres. After graduating, Roo went on to work for top chefs in New York; including his mentor, Bruce Rogers from Tentation, the NY division of Potel & Chabot, the notable Parisian catering company. He and Keren met in NYC and chose his hometown to open their first restaurant. "We chose Buffalo because I wanted to serve simple, arresting, delightful food to people who will love it,"said Roo.

Since moving back to Buffalo, Roo has been honing his culinary skills at The Rue Franklin while searching for the ideal location to open up the couple's dream restaurant. That ideal place turned out to be an old city favorite that perfectly matched their specific requirements. The Coda is quaint, chic, and manageable, or as Roo likes to put it, "high-end country French."Try to picture the set in the movie, Chocolat. Remember the otherworldly edible temptations, the atmospheric colors, and the characters that brought the set to life? The Coda truly represents a fine balance of presentation and pleasure, right down to the sterling silver water pitchers and the showy orchids that perch about the intimate space.

Roo and his sous-chef Joe Cipolla, have created items on an weekly menu that cater to a variety of palates. They have included poultry, fish, and red meat dishes as well as vegetarian delights. The homemade desserts are so delectable they will surely be discussed over coffee the next morning. The foods can easily be paired with selections from a well researched wine list that is sure to bring a smile to even the most discriminating wine enthusiast. The Coda also boasts a Inew' cozy bar, replete with stools and a brilliant selection of drinks.

When you step into The Coda, you are stepping into a world of hand-dyed black chef jackets and cultural decadence. The Coda is a re-creation of one of the most intriguing and magically hidden hotspots in the city of Buffalo. If you are looking for one of the most intimate dining experiences in the city, ask for table #34.

The Coda | 350 Pennsylvania St. at Normal 716.362.0435 | www.the-coda.com Open Thu, Fri, Sat at 5pm soon will open for Sunday brunch