The Difference Between Good and Bad Flan
There are two things I know to be true. There's no difference between good flan and bad flan, and there is no war in Albania.
--Wag The Dog by David Mamet
Thereis no war in Albania, but Mamet is wrong about flan. All flan is at best mediocre when measured against what I had last night at The Coda.
Co-owner and chef Roo Buckleyis flan of local squash with maple drizzle, served with a garnish of plump greens and slivers of apple, was a brilliant and refined palate teaseothe herbed and seasoned squash stopped short of sweet and danced just on the right side of savory. It didnit make up its mind and it didnit have to. The drizzle was like a light and very subtle sauterneoa taste full of hints, like maple and dried fruit and blanched almonds.
It was fall captured on a plate.
And itis plates like those that make Roo one of the best new chefs in Buffalo. For innovative cuisine executed with classic and masterful French technique, served in a charming space by folks who know how to present a fine dining experience without the fuss and circumstance, you have to try The Coda.
350 Pennsylvania across the street from Kleinhans Music Hall and Symphony Circle. 716.362.0435
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