Secrets of Buffalo: St. Louis Church Part 1, What's Up There?


I contacted church archivist Michael Reister to ask for a tour. He graciously arranged for not only a tower tour but an expanded tour of many other spaces including the basement and attic. Michael is a walking history book on the church building and congregation. As we walked through the building he told many more stories than I could ever hold in my brain.
This first part of my tour started in the tower. You get there by way of a winding stair located in one of the small side towers. The front of the church is dominated by a single main tower modeled on the twin towers of the Cologne Cathedral stlouisrc.bfn.org . It is flanked by two smaller side towers. The first stop is the organ loft.

Most people associate organs with the beautiful golden pipes which grace the sanctuary. Often, the pipes that are visible in the church are simply for decoration. In the case of St. Louis the pipes are functional but represent only a small portion of the organ's workings. Most pipes that make up a powerful wind-driven pipe organ are not so aesthetically pleasing. They come in all kinds of shapes and materials from squat, to tall, wood to tin. Some are square. Some are as small as a drinking straw, while some could hold a person.

Though the tower is mostly a symbolic element, it also functions as a massive reverberation chamber for the organ, amplifying and toning the huge instrument. In fact the church becomes the instrument. The St. Louis organ was originally displayed at the Pan American Exhibition before installation at St. Louis.

Further up into the tower, we came to the clock works and bells. The simple clockworks formed a wonderful and delicate kinetic sculpture. The bells are impressive in their massiveness. The thick bronze forms are ever so slightly intimidating as you know that your ears would not recover easily if the bells should be rung in such close proximity. There is a beauty in the very basic and raw power of these instruments. The final payoff was the spectacular city views in each direction.

Unfortunately, the stair to the very beautiful and lacy top of the tower was not in working order, so our tour descended a few levels down and into the attic. The space over the sanctuary is dark and mysterious. Like all gothic churches, the peeked roof is framed in massive wood timbers. The vaults seen by parishoners are below. The dust of many decades has built up and the finishes are original from the day they were installed, untouched by new coats of paint.

While walking through these unseen places you get a real sense of the passage of time. So few people have touched these spaces that you feel closer to the very first inhabitants.
Stay tuned for Part 2: "Down Under"
You can take a joint tour of St. Louis Church and St, Paul's Cathedral on the second saturday of each month free of charge see the church web site for more information stlouisrc.bfn.org/
For more images from my church tour go here skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=656112

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Comment Options
Perry
Outstanding story and photos. I walk/drive/ride my bike past St. Louis daily and it never fails to capture my imagination, yet I've never set foot in the building. I too wondered what is up in the tower.
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sbrof
How cool, the images from skyscrapercity remind me of some of the spaces I went in during my travels abroad. The construction of these structures and the way people move through them are really spectacular.
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benfranklin
During renovation a few years ago, I thought someone told me (one of the workers?) that the steeple is unusual in that it has no steel infrastructure, just stone. Anyone know if that's true? Anyway, interesting story about a great building.
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allentwnguy1
I'm so jealous and didn't know the tours existed. When I come back to buffalo and into the city the tower of St Louis is my welcome. I've often marveled at the lace like look seen against a blue sky. Thanks for the great photos. I will experience it for myself next visit. Great story.
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STEEL
Just a clarification. I do not think that the public building tours include these spaces so BRO will need to be your one and only guide.
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allentwnguy1
Yes I understood that by the article. But one could hope!
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RaChaCha
Zounds! Awesome article and pix, Steel!! I'm assuming the last picture is inside one of the side towers--?
Ben, this is indeed an all-masonry tower (as are the towers at the Richardson complex). Also, the stonework of the spire is not enclosed, but open to the elements. The tower of St. Louis' has the distinction of being one of the tallest of that type in the world.
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NorthBuff
This church is one amazing feat of engineering that still stands, a "72-foot-tall, pierced spire -- the tallest open-work spire ever built completely of stone without reinforcement in the U.S. It is reputed to be the only remaining pierced spire in the U.S. Its counterpart is in J.W. Schikel's native Germany in the Cologne Cathedral." It would great if the interior of the spire could be lit up at night, a fund should be started to light this magnificant structure at night. Where do I send the check?
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STEEL
Roch,
Yes that last image is of one of the side towers
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drm1984
Thanks for the great story Steel!! I moved to buffalo about a year ago and this building captured my attention from the get-go. I will definilty be attending one of their tours.
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quiet
My grandmother's German furniture seller's family attended this church 100++ years ago. My grandmother went to the elementary school they had, where they still taught in German or taught German, not sure which; or maybe it was they still said the Mass in German. She was married there in 1917, too. When I do attend Mass there, I wonder what it was like way back then. I love that so much has been kept up-to-date (can't beat the heated seats in the winter, too--don't touch the pipes though--you're hands'll get dirty) and love that you've shared these photos. Thanks for your story and everyone else's factoids, especially about the tower. Another factoid: that parish is the oldest in the city and, obviously, founded by a bunch of Germans, I think.
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truestar
Nice photos here and at the link you provided. I recently took a trip to Pittsburgh and had lunch at the Church Brew Works, a formerly vacant RC Church transformed into a a brew pub...they brew on the former altar, and the seats at the tables are church pews... truly an innovative re-use of a beautiful building. Pittsburgh city planners did quite a few things right, the major league sports arenas are downtown as well as a university. I was at one time a church sexton (official job title) which is a story in itself....I had the opportunity to visit the pipe room as well as the bellows, and got the chance to watch when the organ tuners did their seasonal tuning of the organ, pots of rabbit skin glue and everything, they hit the lowest note a few times which is an earth shaking experience.
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PaulBuffalo
Pittsburgh is a great nearby example of a city that takes urban planning seriously. When I lived there in the early 1980s, the city was actively targeting areas for future development. Their Southside project is a great recent urban success and walking through that neighborhood is a true pleasure.
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