Buffalo Rising Online

Jul 10th 2007, 10:01am By Christa Glennie Seychew

Early last week, our online ARTS staffer and I headed to SAMPLE for a press event. We were being given a golden opportunity. Selections from SAMPLE's new spring menu and killer cocktail repertoire would accompany a series of minute-long previews from performers scheduled to entertain at this summer's Infringement Festival.

The evening's MC and Infringement Festival volunteer Ron Ehmke summed up the festival's connection with SAMPLE best. “We're here because SAMPLE is based in Allentown and Allentown is kind of our home base. SAMPLE is also a home for experimental food. They're presenting food in a completely different way, a new way way that Buffalo has never seen. And the attitude with SAMPLE's happy hour is to just try stuff and see if people like it, and that's the spirit of the festival as well.”

I think he was right. The SAMPLE concept is new and different here in WNY, though it is a popular and well-received theme in other metropolitan areas. Additionally, SAMPLE's sense of aesthetics, both on the plate and in it's decor and atmosphere, is one of the most fashion-forward, modern takes seen anywhere WNY. Let's hope they become trendsetter's, providing a bit of inspiration for those looking to improve the feel (and the public's perception) of their establishments.

I will leave it up to our ARTS writer to fill you in on the details regarding all of the performances. The Infringement Festival is, in my opinion, Buffalo's best festival, and worthy of as much attention as it can get. I'm here to tell you about the “extras”-- the secret reason why many of us attend benefit after benefit and party after party -- the food and drink.

What Ehmke is referring to isn't actually called happy hour, but instead R&D night (R&D stands for Research and Development). It offers bartenders the chance to mix up new concoctions and guests the opportunity to enjoy shot-size samples of drinks they might not otherwise experience. R&D night takes place every Tuesday, and during our visit a really mellow Long Island Green Tea presented one heck of a kick and a flavorful, fresh Pina Colada was well received by the crowd.

The regular cocktail menu is no less inventive. Our ARTS writer had a Smoked Cherry Manhattan made with smoked Bing cherries, Makers Mark, bitters and sweet vermouth. I chose to have Honey Lavender Martinis (yes, that's plural) made with Hendricks gin, lavender-steeped honey water and fresh lemon. I found my drink to be smooth, delicious and surprisingly thirst quenching- not something you can say about most cocktails. After dinner and the lengthy presentation I moved on to the Roasted Pineapple Mojito made with oven roasted pineapple puree, 10 Cane Rum, fresh mint and lime- my new favorite. There is simply no substitution for a well-made cocktail that utilizes fresh ingredients. For those of you still drinking rum and coke, stop down for R&D night (any Tuesday) and take an adventure with the barkeep at SAMPLE.

Now, on to the eats. SAMPLE's first menu, developed with the Buffalo winter in mind, predominately featured lowbrow staples (think beef on weck and sausage with peppers) creatively re-tooled to suit SAMPLE's bite-size theme. The new summer menu offers more vegetarian options and takes advantage of the season's light mood and lush produce. At the Infringement Festival event passed hors d'oeuvres included crostini topped with gouda and roasted pineapple as well as a spoon filled with couscous, soft, plump raisins and a dab of tzatziki. My favorites of the evening's offerings were a ginger carrot soup topped with crème fraiche and amazing housemade pickled vegetables and “Carrots and Peas”, a small square of light, flavorful carrot cake topped with fresh pea puree and julienned carrots.

As if I hadn't already had enough, I decided to order three bites in order to give you a broader glimpse of the menu. Do you see the sacrifices I must make for you? In the picture below you'll see “Steak Bearnaise” (which consists of seared sirloin and shallot confit served in a potato cup with Bearnaise sauce), “Mini Stack” (which is made of potato pancakes, caramelized apple and potato pearls and crème fraiche), and “Lobster Roll”, which requires no description short of noting that it is light and tasty.

There are three specific things that I want you to remember when taking your first trip to SAMPLE:
1.SAMPLE is about portions that equal only one or two bites and run approximately $1.75 - $4 each. It's a cocktail party- not a buffet.
2. SAMPLE won BR'S Chef's Challenge: Chayote
3. R&D night just happens to be tonight, so grab a seat at the bar early!

SAMPLE
242 Allen St, 14201
716.883.1675, call for hours

Photos by Christa Glennie Seychew