Prime 490

You wonder if Rhode Island Street will ever actually become a restaurant destination neighborhood. Left Bank has reigned over the block just off Richmond and Prime 490 is a quality addition to an area which has yet to reach critical mass. Prime 490 offers a more modern comfort food/steakhouse menu with an extensive daily specials list. It also offers one of the best wine lists in the city. Jen Moogensen and Christian DiFiglia opened 490 about a year ago and have recently added Jim Hanson (formerly of Nektar) as chef. The space is welcoming as you enter the bar area and becomes ambient and richly lit as you proceed into the dining room; a smart design as you can eat removed from the bar hustle. The bar seating is ample making this a great choice for the casual diner as well.
The steak is excellent, and the NY strip you get on Monday tastes just as great as the one you get on Saturday. Hanson delivers consistent, satisfying food. An interesting "deep fried" balsamic glazed filet sounds strange but succeeds in several ways. The pork char sui and fried rice is a nice change of pace and successfully follows the comfort theme. The lobster mac-n-cheese was just added to the sides menu and is a meal in itself. Specials always include a risotto, appetizer, and entree. The appetizer specials such as the scallops with rum-vanilla sauce are an ambitious outlet for the chef. Desserts come from Dolci.
Prime 490 offers great weekday specials. A second USDA Prime strip steak costs $4.90 on Mondays and you can find free apps and desserts with entrees on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
There are some great bottles here, such as Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir ('05 Santa Barbara, $45), Havens Bourriquot, a Napa red blend of Cab Franc and Merlot ('01, half bottle $50), and an interesting Jade Mountain Mouvedre ('03, $36). If you like to drink wine out, go on Wednesdays when wine bottles are half-off. The Marcel Deiss Pinot Blanc and Loosen-St. Michelle Eroica Riesling are list price after markdown.
An abundance of big reds compliment the menu. Italy and Spain are well represented. There are some good whites too, but you may want to pound the whites down at the bar before you tackle the rich yet balanced menu Chef Hanson manifests. The by-the-glass list is quality, the Genesis Merlot ($7) makes drinking Merlot enjoyable.
490 would do better if the neighborhood was more sought out (besides the loyal LB crowd). It has, nonetheless, set itself up for success by delivering high quality food and smart wines. The staff and bartenders are experienced and kind. The food is on par with the best in the city. On a final note, parking is a snap as there is a large lot directly across from the restaurant. Go check out Prime 490.
Prime 490
490 Rhode Island
882.3328

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bfitz
I heard the old Chef JJ Richert recently opened Torches on Kenmore where Tsunami used to be. Has anyone heard anything?
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ChristaSeychew
bfitz-
glad you asked! jj and his brother kevin have indeed opened torches in the former tsunami building. it is not to be missed. br staffers have become major fans and have made multiple visits in the last two weeks that they've been open. check out our april issue of buffalo rising magazine for a full feature on this innovative new restaurant.
christa
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viking
While location is a factor in casual dinning, a destination restaurant isn't as effected after it gains recognition. At $4.90, a trimmed grill ready, 16-oz steak is sold below it's cost, excluding side dishes, I would also recommend this deal. Lobster-Mac and cheese, is a tease, what does this gem set you back. Needless to say this is another in a long line of alerts, that my crew will check out. Thank you.
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Steve
I had a very good dinner there a couple of months back. The steak was very good (although I do prefer the Chophouse for steak), the appetizers were good enough for me to try and re-create them at home, and they had a very nice Petite Sirah on the menu. With the Monday special I think we'll drag a group in for dinner next time we go.
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