Buffalo Rising Online

Jan 7th 2007, 11:57am By Christa Glennie Seychew

Oliver’s has operated as a highly successful fine dining establishment since 1936. Oliver’s is a classic and refined restaurant, perfect for grandparents and parents—especially when celebrating. But don’t only think of Oliver’s as your grandmother’s favorite restaurant. It ought to be one of yours as well.

Occupying a small plot on Delaware Avenue, Oliver's exterior, though simple and streamlined, does not successfully convey the stunning ode to refinement and understatement that is its climate, cuisine and décor. The interior is subdued and elegant. Beautiful booths allow for privacy and room to move—luxuries sadly missing in many of our city’s fine dining establishments. The white linen is pristine, and fresh-cut flowers adorn the tables. The bar is original, though it’s been cut from a full oval to a horseshoe to allow for more seating. The layout of the room conjures an intimate feeling, the subtle lighting and tasteful art lend to the seamless experience.

Gone are the halcyon days of “dressing” for dinner. Oliver’s is as much a home to the well coiffed, Chanel-suited society woman as it is to the denim-clad urban hipster with a taste for good food and drink. There are two distinctly different ways in which to enjoy Oliver’s—at the bar, or in the dining room.

Enjoying your meal at the bar is the latest trend. Though it has been in vogue in larger cities for the last few years, it has only recently hit its stride in Buffalo. If you’ve eaten at the bar before, you know that it is an entirely different experience than the one you would have if seated at the table. As a singleton or with a casual dinner partner, you needn’t call ahead and make reservations.

Oliver’s bar is the perfect place to try this trend on for size. The bartenders are consummate professionals; skilled at making your experience as a diner as good, if not better, than when you are there strictly to imbibe. The bar at Oliver’s is a good size, allowing ample room for a pleasurable dining experience. At the bar, ordering a full scale meal off of the dinner menu is acceptable and encouraged, but the lounge menu is equally spectacular and suited to those inclined toward a lighter meal.

The spring rolls filled with goat cheese and duck served with chili strawberry sauce are divine. Each tender bite is at once mildly salty, sweet and spicy. The creaminess of the cheese when combined with the zip of the sauce is incredible, particularly when coupled with the gamey flavor of the duck. Other offerings include a good, solid tenderloin steak sandwich served with Provolone, mushrooms and spinach and a classic Caesar salad with grilled salmon. The shrimp quesadilla with corn, leeks and chipotle crème fraiche also looks tempting. All of the lounge menu’s items are affordable and sized appropriately; most of them fall between $9 and $13. If you are looking for an experience that is more traditional or intimate, call ahead to make reservations for one of the many lovely tables available. The dinner menu is divided into first course offerings and entrees. First course plates range from simple salads like the one featuring summer heirloom tomatoes, basil and buffalo milk mozzarella to more complex dishes like the “open” ravioli of wild mushrooms with aged goat cheese, asparagus and truffle oil.

My favorite was the baked brie with duck confit. The accompanying crimini mushrooms, corn and roasted garlic sauce enhanced the subtle nutiness inherent to the warm and creamy cheese, while the duck offered heartiness in both flavor and texture. As with any good restaurant, Oliver’s has its share of specials. On my visit, we ordered a smart salad that featured Humboldt Fog cheese. A Californian goat cheese shot through with a line of edible ash, its mild lemony flavor was perfectly complemented by the cranberry chutney served alongside it.

Oliver’s entrees are a pleasure. The New York strip steak is, not surprisingly, their most popular dish. Sure to please, it is served with smoked Gouda and chive whipped Yukon gold potatoes, and spinach topped with arugula butter. Both the salmon and the duck breast entrees are poached in olive oil, a remarkable way to lend flavor and coax amazing texture out of any meat. The Long Island duck is sliced and served with creamed spinach, fingerling potatoes, wild mushrooms and Banyuls vinegar (one of the world’s finest vinegars, it is imported from a small wine region in the south of France). The Atlantic salmon, poached in both olive oil and Riesling, is served over warm new potato salad, fennel confit and a pinot noir reduction. Virtually all of the fish served at Oliver’s is flown in from Hawaii. Upon my visit, my guest and I couldn’t decide between the sea bass and the Hawaiian butterfish. Both sounded heavenly. The butterfish is grilled and served with tomato syrup, saffron crème fraiche and a ragout made of escarole and butterbeans. Our server, Taylor, sited the sea bass as one of her favorites, so that made our decision for us.

In texture, the sea bass is unlike any other that I have had. How is it possible for one soft, clean taste of warm, succulent fish to be light as air, fluffy as a cloud and thick as cream at once? I cannot tell you, but bite after bite that was the case. Dusted with finely ground porcini mushrooms and served in a mushroom broth with peas and pearl onions it is accompanied by a serving of rich and flavorful parmesan rice. This sea bass is one to be reckoned with.

My strongest recommendation is for the Australian rack of lamb. It is encrusted with pistachios and coriander, a delicious combination. Rich and delicate, ordered medium rare or medium, it can be easily cut with a butter knife. Before placing each tender morsel in your mouth, you must run it through the savory condiment that decorates the plate. As you chew, the earthy flavor of lamb follows on the coattails of the spiced yogurt sauce. The juicy chops are served beside broccolini and a napoleon fashioned of pureed eggplant and goat cheese stacked with cherry tomatoes and curried phyllo crisps.

Dessert is equally enamoring. The classics crème brulee and cheesecake with strawberries is offered. On the night of my recent visit one of the dessert specials available was an extravagant chocolate hazelnut tart. If you are terribly full, an aperitif or a few bites of one of the chef’s sorbets will suffice. We partook in a flight of sorbets, featuring lychee, rose essence with champagne and strawberry rum. They were nice, though very sweet. I love to eat things with redolence, and the rose with champagne flavor was exactly that.

Henry Gorino has owned and operated Oliver’s for twenty-four years. As a graduate of CIA, an oenophile, and a shrewd businessman he has the knowledge to guide his restaurant through the trends and the shifting economy, always landing on his feet. Most importantly, Mr. Gorino knows how to pick a chef. Many of Buffalo’s great chefs have practiced their craft in the kitchen at Oliver’s before owning and operating their own highly acclaimed establishments. Mark Hutchinson of Hutch’s was one of Mr. Gorino’s first chefs. Brian Mietus of Bacchuus, Daniel Johengen of Daniel’s in Hamburg and the famous Mike Andrzejewski (Tsunami) have all held the place of Executive Chef at Oliver’s.

Currently, Chef Chris Daigler is at the helm. He worked as both Mike Andrzejewski and Brian Mietus’ sous chef. After Mietus left he stepped into the role as Executive Chef. The menu changes seasonally, and each season Chef Daigler develops dishes that successfully marry contemporary flavors and techniques with classic American cuisine. His flavor pairings are smart and simple; challenging the palate without distracting it. The wine list at Oliver’s is magnificent and interesting enough to dedicate an entire article to. Here, in an attempt to help you understand why that is, I will offer you some very basic information. The age represented by Gorino’s cellar is remarkable and not easily come by. Not many restaurants can offer patrons a 1999 Chateau D’Yquem or several vintages of all five first growth Bordeaux’s. Chateau’s Margaux, Latour, Haut Brion, Mouton and Lafite Rothschild are each represented.

Stag’s Leap, Opus One and Shafer Hillside Select are here, as they should be. But character is represented here in less obvious ways as well. Offering older Barolos and Barbarescos shows that not everyone believes that a good meal requires a giant, fruity red from Napa Valley (though they do have a time and a place). Acidity and complexity are equally important, particularly if one is going to enjoy a nice piece of red meat. There are also great values to be had on the wine list. The Justin “Isosceles” Paso Robles 2002 is a great deal at $85. If you prefer white, then perhaps the 2002 Chalk Hill Chardonnay at $72 would suit you.

But, wine or no wine, Oliver’s is a great place to eat. For you it may be a cool place to hang out with friends and watch a game, or it may be the restaurant where you spend your anniversary. Perhaps it could be both. It’s also a really nice place to come before a movie or a show for an appetizer and a drink, or even just dessert.

Don’t let the fact that Oliver’s is one of the most highly rated restaurants in Western New York make you think that it is too fancy or stuffy for your taste. Come by the bar for a drink and some killer food. Try out the “Hog Wings” (Dr. Pepper braised shanks with fennel carrot slaw) and a “Garbage Salad” (iceberg and romaine lettuces dressed with white balsamic vinaigrette served with cucumber, tomato, artichoke hearts, shrimp, Gorgonzola cheese, garbanzo beans, Sopressata, black and green olives). There’s nothing that sounds haute cuisine about that!

Oliver’s Restaurant
2095 Delaware Avenue, Buffalo 14216
716.877.9662