Buffalo Rising Online

Oct 26th 2007, 1:18pm By Christa Glennie Seychew

As a food editor, one of the things I most anticipate is the change of seasons. Many of our area restaurants abide by the principal of using fresh, seasonal ingredients, and their menus reflect that as they evolve from light summer fare to the hardier flavors of winter and back again. For me, it's an opportunity to rediscover these restaurants, another opportunity to peek into the minds of the personalities and philosophies of the chefs that create and foster these changes. This year the late arrival of Buffalo's most infamous season has delayed a number of these updates. It amazes me that in October many establishments are just beginning to shift into the season of the almighty school of roast and braise.

I find myself at my keyboard again extolling the beauty of Oliver's. I wrote a full feature on this, one of Buffalo's all time favorite restaurants, for last January's issue of Buffalo Rising Magazine. In that piece, I was happy to discover and reveal to YUM readers that Oliver's has become more than your grandparent's favorite restaurant.

The young and accomplished chef, Christopher Daigler, is providing the classic preparations that many have come to know and love Oliver's for, but he's also parlaying modern techniques and flavor pairings into the menu in addition to integrating his passion for unique, hard to find local ingredients.

As discussed in January's article, Oliver's has taken hold of the increasingly popular trend of dining at the bar. Their lounge menu and specialty cocktails have developed a following of their own. One no longer needs to be dressed to the nines and looking for a five course meal to enjoy the ambiance, fantastic food and great service at Oliver's. A pair of jeans is as welcome here as an Armani suit; a guest enjoying a steak sandwich and a beer as welcome as those with their hearts set on escargot and a good bottle of chardonnay.

Oliver's has become a cool place to catch a game with a great, affordable lounge menu and drink specials galore during Sabres games, the World Series and every football game, regardless of the teams on the field.

Let me warn you that viewing this video while hungry is a bad idea. The lounge menu is comprised of eight dishes. The traditional shrimp cocktail ($12.95) and Caesar salad ($8 or $13.75 with grilled salmon) are here, but there are other flavors here as well, all befitting the impending chilly weather and the appetites of those looking to watch a game on the bar's flat screen television, grab a bite before a movie or enjoy a cocktail with a friend.

The Tenderloin Carpaccio Wrapped Bread Sticks ($10.95) are a light snack, accompanied by a tasty parmesan crisp and a really delightful caper pistou and caperberries; it's a good dish for anyone looking for a nosh, particularly one to share. The crisp bread sticks play nicely against the cool, smooth, tender beef. Another dish suited to sharing is the Preserved Lemon and Goat Cheese Fondue ($11.75), definitely one of my favorites. This delicious fondue is served with tasty crostini and well-prepared asparagus spring rolls, the wrapper perfectly crunchy while the asparagus retains its crisp texture and fresh flavor. Don't be afraid to ask for extra bread after you munch your way through the yummy spring rolls, there's plenty of fondue here, for you and a guest.

The Chili BBQ Short Rib Quesadilla ($11.50), cut into four neat triangles, is also good for sharing but the tender, juicy meat combined with caramelized onions and smoked gouda will make you want to keep it all to yourself. If you're on your own and hungry for more than a snack, the signature Prime Strip Sandwich ($13.75), a thick juicy steak piled high with sauteed crimini mushrooms and provolone is satisfying and particularly sapid, the accompanying truffled frites too enticing to miss.

Other tempting offerings include the Buffalo Chicken Wing Wontons with homemade bleu cheese ($9.75) and the giant, sweet and luscious Skewered Tempura Shrimp with ponzu dip and wakame salad ($12.75), not to mention the great salads and appetizers that make their home on the dinner menu.

The specialty cocktail menu has been reinvented, the offerings on par with the trend toward unique martinis. On my visit I enjoyed the Wild Orchid (Stoli Orange, Malibu coconut rum, cranberry and pineapple juices), the Southern Drawl (Southern Comfort, triple sec, cranberry and fresh orange and lime juices) and the Basil Martini, a really refreshing drink with fantastic fragrance (Hangar One Vodka, fresh basil and lime juice). Other choices include the Top Shelf Cosmo, a Bellini made with peach puree and and a Classic Mojito. Oliver's House Aperitif made of champagne, kirsch and cassis is augmented by the oily essence of an orange being squeezed from its rind, lit with a match and dropped into the awaiting glass with a flourish.

We all enjoy a good cheeseburger and an order of fiery chicken wings at the neighborhood bar, but sometimes its nice to change it up a little. On our visit on a Monday night, the bar stools were full, a friendly and varied crowd watched the game and talked about food, current events and the baseball playoffs. Next time you head out to catch a game, stop at Oliver's and check out the vibe--it's well worth the effort.


Oliver’s Restaurant
2095 Delaware Avenue, Buffalo 14216
716.877.9662