My Chicken Wing Scorecard

My Chicken Wing Scorecard

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I came across an article a few months ago, published in 1980 by one of my favorite authors, Calvin Trillin of The New Yorker. While not exclusively a food writer, Trillin has a passion for food and it reads loud and clear in many of his pieces. The article, entitled "An Attempt to Compile a Short History of the Buffalo Chicken Wing" documented Trillin’s trip to Buffalo and his subsequent rounds around our fair city to find which chicken wing reigns supreme.

It's an entertaining article but it’s pretty dated, so I thought I'd make it my winter's work to update it. This will include sampling wings at all the old classics, as well as the newcomers. But I cannot just rush into this blindly. I must methodically document and reason, thoroughly research and create a standardized assessment through which I can objectively choose the superior chicken wing. To that end, I created categories for score-worthy components of a delicious chicken wing.

First up is Pearl Street Brewery. I thought that their wings were mighty fine. So I will rate the Pearl Street wing by the categories I have devised.

1. Size: Some people complain about small wings. I personally find the huge, hulking ones pretty creepy. I feel like they came from some genetically-modified, hormone-high chicken. Plus, I like a high skin-meat ratio. Not enough surface area on those big ones. So these wings were right in the middle, just fine by me.

2. Crisp: Under-fry a wing and they are a soggy mess and the veins are much too flaccid. Over-fry a wing and you have something that resembles a pork rind more than a chicken wing. They must be perfectly fried to avoid either one of those outcomes and be able to soak up the sauce and still retain a bit of that crispy exterior. Pearl Street did this marvelously.

3. Wing Sauce: It has to be Frank's Red Hot and butter! There cannot be any skimping on the butter. And oh my, they did not.

4. Blue Cheese: First of all, does it come with blue cheese? If not, they are not wings! Second, is the blue cheese laden with blue cheese chunks? Is the mayonnaise base redolent with garlic? This is a downfall of most places; I often have to resort to bringing an emergency container of Marie's Extra-Chunky Blue Cheese. Anyway, Pearl Street did not receive high marks in this category. The blue cheese was middle of the road.

5. Carrot/Celery: I don't think this category carries as much weight as the others but it's part of the experience. Many wing joints skimp here too, throwing a few anemic-looking celery sticks and dried out carrots on the plate. Kudos to Pearl Street; the vegetables were fresh and ample.

6. Double vs. Single: I don't know how else to describe them. You know, there are the wings with one bone and then the double-jointed guys. I used to favor the drumstick-like wings, now I think I prefer the doubles. I'll eat both but some people are fanatics about only eating one type or another. Cast your vote please.

I'd like to see some comments about your personal preferences and secret haunts. And I promise to keep you posted about my next chicken wing experience.

Pearl Street Grill & Brewery
76 Pearl Street, Buffalo 14202
716.856.2337

feed your soul buffalo

What Others Have To Say

  1. stephenjames716

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 11:59

    bar bill in ea!

  2. Finch

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 12:28

    Gabriel's Gate on Allen St has one of my favorite wings

    Laughlin's on the corner of Franklin and Tupper are also quite good.

    Shannon's Pub on Niagara Falls Blvd. in Amherst is also quite enjoyable

  3. Wilby

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 12:36

    Might I suggest: Hot Wings Cafe with three locations - Melrose (off La Brea) Glendale and Old Pasadena

    Best wings west of the Mississippi!

  4. WeLovePanos

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 12:49

    Century Grill across front the Hyatt has the best wings around, and the most beautiful building to boot...

  5. Laramy

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 12:57

    Not sure where it started, but I've heard the drumsticks called "Shirleys" and the other part called "flats" as in, "I like flats and my wife likes the Shirleys". Mmmm, I could go for a nice bucket of flats right now.

  6. chris_h_23

    1 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 13:00

    Sal's Lounge in Depew has the best wings in the area. Not too many people know about this place but it is defintely worth the trip for them. I would have to say 2nd place would be Charlie O'Brien's in South Buffalo...you have to try their wings!

  7. Schoebdoo

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 13:22

    The "Day After Factor" deserves some recognition. The truly great wings are even better when eaten cold the next day, after an overnight stay in the fridge. Also, while not in the category of "Hot Wings" La Nova's Grilled BBQ wings are sensational. Gabriel's Gate has the best traditional Buffalo Wings.

  8. BackInBuffalo

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 13:42

    Only an excellent writer could verbally/semantically dissect a chicken wing into such unappealing components (i.e. flaccid/flat/hormone/cheese chunks,etc.). I'm anxious to read your revised article on an empty stomach.

    If I may suggest another rating - how about the best non-fowl wing. The tastiest faux-wing around; perhaps something along the line of the breaded eggplant "shirley" at Off-The-Wall.

  9. inferno

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 14:32

    Best wings around can be found at Kilmek's in North Tonawanda.

  10. ChristaSeychew

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 14:39

    I've heard them referred to as "clubs" and "flats", but "Shirleys" is way more fun...

  11. RaChaCha

    1 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 14:45

    Interesting that neither the article nor comments as yet have mentioned the 'A' word. No, not that 'A' word - I mean the Anchor Bar. When I first did a project for a Buffalo client several years ago, I natch took the opportunity to make a pilgrimage to the wing's ancestral homeland at Main and North. Although I don't regret that I went, I came away disappointed in both the service and the product, and was surprised in subsequent days how many Buffalonians told me they felt the same way. I felt like I had stumbled across an open secret - that despite the legendary role of the Anchor Bar in launching Buffalo to food superstardom, it doesn't seem to be the place most Buffalo folks prefer to go for wings. In fact, I have yet to find anyone in Buffalo who gives the Anchor as their favorite place for wings. Frequently folks mention Duff's, or Gabriel's Gate (already mentioned above). I haven't declared a fav yet, which is a perfect excuse to sample a new place every time I'm in town.

    About Pearl Street: don't miss the opportunity to try the beer & cheese soup - order a bowl and ask for fresh bread with it - it's a great warm-up on a blustery day.

  12. simcoe

    2 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 14:47

    Has anyone tried KFC's boneless chicken wing? It's awesome, esp at the Elmwood & Bryant location. They make 'em extra special there.

  13. chris_h_23

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 14:59

    simcoe -- thanks for bringing some laughter into my day. :)

  14. HelloKitty

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 15:02

    Sneakers out in Crystal Beach Ontario has the best wings.

  15. xosder

    1 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 15:15

    Actually, I think just the tourists hit the anchor bar. I don't know any locals who go there for the wings. I give a vote to KGallagher's on Allen.

  16. BuffaloRox

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 15:17

    Real test is consistency. Go back a couple of times and see if Pearl Street wings taste the same or if you just had the right cook.

    So far, only Duff's in Amherst consistently has decent size wings that are crispy but not overcooked. The cooks come and go over the years but the wings are excellent. Every time without fail. Don't ever have to worry about being disappointed. They are expensive and a tad too saucy, but they are the best IMO. Honorable mention to Gabriel's Gate (consistent, good size and sauce but not crispy enough). Recently, I had wings at Washington Square on Washington St. (downtown across from Ellicott Square Bldg). Excellent wings!!! Need to go back though to check consistency. Anchor Bar is very hit or miss.

  17. mbhxam

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 15:20

    Yeah, service totally sucks at anchor bar...and simcoe, i literally laughed out loud reading your post...nice!

  18. cia

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 15:38

    Colter Bay, Best Wings, End of Story. Always crisp, hot is actually hot, never a bad wing...

  19. inferno

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 15:51

    Duff's needs to get rid of that mild is hot medium is extra hot etc. crap. Their wings are not very hot at all. It's tough to find wings that make you actually need water or bread after you eat one.

  20. JAramini

    1 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 16:51

    To differentiate wing types I've heard people refer to them as "flats' and "rounds." "Round" makes more sense to me than "shirley."

  21. Hoss

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 17:05

    They are indeed called 'Flats', or 'Clubs'.

    Gabrielle's Gate are my favorite so far, but I've only tried them at about 5 different places.

    I like when you can order just flats, or just clubs. I'm a flat man myself.

  22. chris_h_23

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 18:22

    Inferno -- If you want some truly HOT wings then you want to go to the Sadakonee Restaurant on the Tonawanda Indian Reservation next to Jan's Smokeshop --- (Sadakonee. 383 Bloomingdale Rd, Akron, New York) --- I like my wings VERY VERY VERY HOT and this place has the hottest wings I have ever had anywhere. So hot in fact I could only eat two wings. I couldn't make wings hotter if I tried to and I have some insanely hot sauces. Anyone else know of any other places with some TRULY HOT chicken wings?

  23. ablejack

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 19:05

    As for TRULY HOT wings, it's pretty easy to do. Use TRULY HOT peppers for the sauce. Monk's in Philadelphia (best beer bar in the world) has the hottest wings I've ever had. They use habaneros. But heat is not what I'm after. Crispy yet tender with balanced flavors is the goal for me. As for type names. I've been calling them male (clubs) and female (flats). Works for me. I like them both but prefer female. Finally, as for the best I've had ever, my brother and I make 'em. Nothing else has been close (yet). Laila might find them "pretty creepy" cuz they're big and inauthentic cuz there's NO sauce. We dry rub, then BBQ slow and low for hours over hardwoods. Served with Marie's BC.

  24. chris_h_23

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 19:21

    ablejack -- Sounds like some good wings you guys cook up. The ones at the Sadakonee are marinated and rubbed as well. Then a light sauce is put on them when served.

  25. ablejack

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 19:27

    Chris- Sounds good too, I'll check them out. Oh yeah, here's some HOT sauces, millions of Scoville units! Seriously be careful. http://www.chez-williams.com/Hot%20Sauce/hothome.htm

  26. WeLovePanos

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 21:05

    Simcoe, those arent wings at KFC on elmwood/bryant... the rats there have legs bigger than chicken wings... and the employees are so cleanly!

  27. rb66

    1 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 22:58

    The Swannie House are great. They are the best on Sundays. MMMMMMMMMM!!!!!

  28. RisingDamp666

    0 ratings12345
    Jan 31st, 23:00

    Dip them in Hummus. Really. Not only is it surprisingly good, but your neighbors will be greeted the next morning with an incredible set of 'Bombay Bagpipes'.

  29. 808

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 1st, 01:31

    mothers has grat wings, all around crispy frried goodness

  30. stevip13

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 1st, 08:53

    By far my favorite wings are from the Bar Bill in East Aurora, they are a perfect size, always cooked to perfection and they have a great variety of flavors. And whoever was looking for truly HOTHOTHOT wings, try their suicidal wings. My husband can eat super hot things and even that is a bit much for him. My favorite is the spicy BBQ. I wasn't sure if Sal's in Depew was still open, are their wings still breaded and covered in BBQ sauce? YUM!

  31. chris_h_23

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 1st, 10:20

    Bar Bill eh? I don't know that area too well, where is it located? Sounds like it might be a good place to try! I haven't been to Sal's in a while but last time I was there you could get them breaded or non breaded. I usually ordered the breaded ones xtra hot. I will have to take a trip out that way to see if they are indeed still open.

  32. joshfromsb

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 1st, 12:28

    I'd like to recommend Nine-Eleven location at 11 Bloomfield Ave. in South Buffalo (14220). They have incredible wings, possibly the best I've ever tasted, and they are presented beautifully. The kitchen stays open late. If you want good wings, go here. You will not be disappointed.

  33. JAM

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 1st, 12:43

    Most of my favorite wing places have already been mentioned. Century Grill, Gabriel's Gate and Laughlins are great. Another great place for BBQ wings is "One Eyed Jack's" up in Lockport. They smoke their wings and the meat literally falls off the bone. Brennan's in Williamsville and Coles in Buffalo are also excellent. In response to someone's question of where to get hot hot wings, I think Buffalo Wild Wings gets pretty hot when you get into their "blazing" sauce. Might not melt the skin off your face, but they're hotter than any of the places I've already mentioned. For a chain, Buffalo Wild Wings is pretty good.

  34. rheumpa

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 1st, 12:54

    BarBill in East Aurora. They have the best Italian style wings, sprinkled with parm. So good...

  35. chris_h_23

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 1st, 12:56

    joshfromsb -- I have heard that Nine-Eleven has good wings as well. I have never been there surpisingly since I too live in South Buffalo. Another place I will have to try.

  36. drohde

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 1st, 12:58

    Male (1) and female (2) wings. Both are amazing. Pearl Street has great wings i agree. Its an all around great place to drink eat and hang out with friends.

  37. gregmasters

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 1st, 14:28

    Let's end this once and for all. GO TO DIMARCOS ON ENGLEWOOD AND KENMORE AVE. They have the best wings. And here hot is smokin give me a drink hot. Better try medium first.

  38. AndrewGalarneau

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 2nd, 01:00

    Duff's. Calvin Trillin was right.

    Pearl Street? They're all right, if you're already in the place drinking Lake Effect IPA and you get a craving. But honestly, Washington Square on Washington Street is better and even closer to HSBC before a Sabres game.

  39. geovone

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 2nd, 09:34

    Such a delicious topic! North Buffalo has gone down hill as far as pizzerias go. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to go for good wings in North Buffalo?

  40. ChristaSeychew

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 2nd, 10:06

    I love the wings at Washington Square and Gabriel's Gate. At the Gate you have to order them "crispy" or the skin texture is too rubbery, IMHO. I'm not one for insanely hot wings; I don't really get off on the endorphin rush that your body goes through while it's in full panic from the assault imparted by the sauce. That level of heat trashes my palate anyway, so all of the fun is lost.

  41. Jeffshome

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 4th, 09:02

    I was glad to see that Shannon’s on NFB was mentioned, I love the place. Gabriels Gate and Duff’s are right there in consistency and quality.

    A bit off topic on this but if you have never had the cheeseburger special at Duff’s you have missed something as well, Costanzo roll and great fries w/ gravy.

    Could not agree more on Anchor Bar being a tourist trap now, thanks for inventing them and putting Buffalo on the map but there should be some sort of disclaimer and map to other places for tourists to get some good wings.

  42. NBJOHN

    0 ratings12345
    Feb 6th, 21:50

    Sterling in NoBo has great wings....

    leave the credit card at home.... John and Judy only take the dead presidents

  43. massfour

    0 ratings12345
    Mar 22nd, 13:53

    dimarcos on englewood has the best and the hottest damn wings around

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