Buffalo Rising Online

Jan 2nd 2008, 3:36pm By queenseyes

For those in the know, Gene McCarthy's is one of the best-kept secrets in the city. The other day a couple of us went to have lunch there and were surprised that the kitchen was closed. Since my companion had never eaten there before it was a disappointment to say the least. Though we were out of luck on that day, we were happy to hear that the kitchen was in the process of being upgraded. That's good news for anyone who has ever been to this hidden destination.

For anyone who has never been there, the trip to McCarthy's (open since 1963) can be half the fun. I love to drive un-expecting visitors past the grain mills and the Buffalo Rod and Gun Club. It's fun to see their reactions as they are led through these sleepy little Old First Ward historic neighborhoods. Then, once they are totally disoriented, you pull up to this corner house (photo) and announce that you have arrived. Whether it's just for a beer, to hear an Irish quartet, or you’re in the mood for simple-yet-genuine home cooking, McCarthy's is worth investigating.

Ever since Gerhardt Yaskow took over the classic mainstay, he has been sprucing it up. The trick in sprucing up a restaurant such as this is to be wary of maintaining the business's character... character that has been being added to for decades. That's why Gerhardt first decided to replace the front windows. Gradually he has made improvements that, unless you were very familiar with the restaurant, you would never expect. Here is a place that used to house the grain scoopers on the second floor. I've seen the tight accommodations... no more that bunks and a communal bathroom. Then again, the workers would spend their days unloading the freighters before cashing their checks at the bar downstairs from where they lived. That's why it is so important to Gerhardt to keep the character intact while introducing a whole new generation of Buffalonians to the business.

Although the changes have been calculated, the restaurant as a whole has taken on a different look. Gerhardt has painted the façade (formerly white) and added a front transom with can-lighting… I kind of miss the old green awning (blew off in a storm), but the place looks nice and welcoming with its new array of neon beer lights (Guinness, Yuengling, Boddingtons). The last section of the façade will be painted this spring. It’s also one of the cheapest places to eat (and drink) in the city for those who may be on a shoestring budget. If you’re in the mood for great soups, beef on weck, roast beef, chicken fingers, meatloaf (new), spaghetti (new), hot turkey and gravy, burgers, pies… all homemade. The new cook is also a baker. Make it a date in 2008 – to explore the Old First Ward and try out one of the most memorable restaurants that the city has to offer.

Gene McCarthy’s 73 Hamburg St., (716) 855-8948