Buffalo Rising Online

Jul 9th 2007, 9:12am By Nancy Vargo

Our recent trip to the Clinton-Bailey Market was like a trip back in time in more ways than one. The route we took reminded my husband of excursions he had taken with his family out to his Balla Nejné's (that's Hungarian for Aunt Balla) house which always included a stop at the market.

I think he could have found the market blind-folded, but colorful banners greeting guests in the Clinton-Bailey Community announced our destination. Plentiful and convenient parking encouraged us to fill up our bags.

A vibrant, noisy and aromatic scene unfolded as we reached the center of the gathered farmers and local merchants. Shoppers ranged from teens to parents toting active toddlers to older couples who had spent a lifetime in markets such as this - perhaps thousands of miles away from Buffalo. They carried decades of memories with them and one look in their eyes revealed their stories.

Among all this hustle and bustle, I noticed something that was missing. There were no cash registers. Three quarts of tomatoes at $2 per quart was figured out in the head or hand of the people who planted, tended, harvested and hauled their goods to this site - home to a market for nearly 80 years.

Row upon row of strong, healthy flowers and vegetable plants caught our eye. And the pride in the merchants' calls to passing shoppers made their wares difficult to resist.

For those of us whose thumbs are more brown than green, ready-to-eat fruits and vegetables line the stalls with samples sliced up and served in shallow cardboard boxes. On our visit we were tempted by melons, berries, fresh herbs, tomatoes, and much, much more.

But one merchant created more of a stir than the others and he seemed to know everyone.

Happy to share his story with me, I learned a bit more about the history of the market from Paul Desiderio, whose uncle began working at the market in the 1940's.

"My father owned this stand before me-back in the '50's-and now my brother and I offer specialty sausages and enjoy serving our regular customers just as our father did a generation ago," said Desiderio. "Most people don't know it, but this property is owned by Erie and Niagara County farmers - members of the Niagara Frontier Growers Association."

Paul and his brother resurrected an old family meat grinder and now make a variety of links and sausages to sell alongside other vendors whose fathers worked with their father decades ago. Jams and jellies made by Mennonites are also available at Desiderio's stand.

You're bound to work up an appetite with all this shopping and Desi's restaurant, located near the parking area, is just the place to sit back and enjoy a made-to-order sub, sandwich, wings or any one of Desi's Italian specialties. You don't even have to move your car. Just head to the corner of Clinton and Bailey, where you'll find good, casual food in a warm, friendly spot. Just like the market itself, the place has atmosphere and prices that will take you back more than a few years.

Clinton - Bailey Farmer's Market, 1433 Clinton, 14206, 822.2466
Desi's Family Restaurant, 1427 Clinton, 882.8630, call for hours

Editor's Note: Please check out Buffalo Rising's new produce guide. It is located near the top of the YUM! page and features a photo of farm fresh asparagus. This guide offers a comprehensive list of most of the farmer's markets in WNY as well as a guide illustrating what local crops are in season for each month of our glorious summer.