Buffalo Rising Online

Dec 5th 2007, 9:46am By Christa Glennie Seychew

Last Friday, contributor Courtney Bajdas and I decided to head over to City Grill for lunch. It was one of the first really cold days of the season, and once safe inside, we entered the warm bar area for a casual meal. Those in search of a more formal environment will find themselves at home in the dining room of this fine establishment. Both rooms are attractive, well-lit and thoughtfully furnished.

City Grill opened in 1998 and remains one of Downtown's finest restaurants. A member of the Ultimate Restaurant group (which includes Bacchus and Calvaneso's), City Grill has made quite a name for itself when it comes to good food and great wine.

The lunch menu is simple, most of the items are geared toward guests with a limited amount of time for the midday meal.

The influence of New Orleans cuisine is obvious immediately, as the menu is headed by the daily offering of gumbo. City Grill's parent company, Ultimate Restaurants, also owned the now defunct Ya Ya Brewhouse, and a few items found on City Grill's menu, including jambalaya ($11) and a jerk seasoned pork tenderloin ($10), pay homage to Ya Ya's spice rack.

City Grill has really upped the ante when it comes to salads. It is my observation that most of the lunchtime salads available these days are pretty much the same. Though they are much fresher and more interesting than the salads of previous generations (and for that we should be very, very grateful), rarely do you find a restaurant asking you to stretch your palate or at least your perceptions.

Though the salads at City Grill are not provocative, they are fresh and inventive. By now we are all quite used to seeing the usual, albeit good, combination of greens with fruit, nuts and cheese. City Grill's take on this pairing leaves us with two great salads. The Boston Bibb plays gentle, buttery lettuce against crispy, sweet matchstick cuts of apple, Maytag bleu, spiced pecans and the unpredictable addition of a warm black-eyed pea vinaigrette ($7), and the Smoked Chicken Salad pairs robust Gorgonzola with delicate pink grapefruit supremes sprinkled with a citrus dressing and spiced pecans ($9).

City Grill has added a little flair to the lunchtime sandwich by serving all of theirs with housemade potato chips. They also perk up this portion of the menu's classics by utilizing quality ingredients. For example, the BLT is augmented by a applewood smoked bacon and basil aioli ($8), the turkey, served on ciabatta is paired with a flavorful Vermont goat cheese and, instead of the ubiquitous cranberry mayo, adds a relish of cranberries and balsamic vinegar ($8).

With the wind whipping down Main Street and the day's snow inspiring temperature, we were both in the mood for something hearty. Among the warm entrees offered was a chicken quesadilla ($10) and, because it was Friday, Fish and Chips ($9). A rotation of comfort food classics take their place on the menu as specials including Tomato Soup and Grilled Cheese on Mondays, Chicken and Biscuits on Thursdays ($7) and Meatloaf with Mashed Potatoes on Tuesdays ($8).

I opted for the simple filet of sirloin ($12). The portion size was perfect for the time of day. Grilled perfectly, it rested on a layer of smooth mashed potatoes accented by a smattering of crispy fried leeks and asparagus spears. Lightly sauced with chimichurri, it was flavorful and juicy, an ideal lunch. Courtney was equally pleased with her open-faced Steak Sandwich with pesto and cheese ($12).

The next time you're looking for a place to sit and enjoy a nice lunch, whether in jeans or a suit, stop into City Grill. The menu is accommodating, as is the environment and the staff.

City Grill
268 Main Street, Buffalo 14202
716.856.2651