Buffalo Rising Online

Nov 17th 2007, 6:41am By Christa Glennie Seychew

A few weeks ago, there was a public outcry when Buffalo Rising and The Buffalo News announced to the city that Elmwood's X-cel Produce, home of the largest (if not the best) traditional deli sandwich in Buffalo, was closing its doors. After 25 years, John Darowz, known by some as the "Sandwich Nazi", decided to move on to bigger and better things. It was hard for his customers to believe that this restaurant and market, full of character and good food, would no longer be there for them.

But the food business has been changing, and after sticking it out through thick and thin in this struggling block of Elmwood, Darowz decided to get himself a new gig.

As a long time customer of James Desiderio Wholesale Produce (known to most as Desiderio's), Darowz had developed a special relationship with the folks that run this closely knit family business. A few years ago, while their new building on Bailey Avenue was being constructed, President Robert Mercurio approached Darowz about running the employee cafe he hoped would some day be a part of the business. Neither of them really knew when this concept would come to fruition and whether or not the timing would be right for both of them. It just so happens that a few weeks ago, it did...and it was.

Desiderio's beautiful Papa D's Market Cafe has become Darowz's new home, a situation that is evident from the moment you enter. The brand new space, in all of its sparkling glory, is already boasting a number of the Sandwich Nazi's trademark hand lettered signs. 'Jello Shots After Lunch" reads one, "Sorry, not trendy, just good" reads another. The menu's listing of available sandwiches include amusing descriptions; the oven-roasted pork sandwich is apparently "politically motivated" and Friday's homage to the Catholic "fish on Fridays" tradition simply says "Oh my God!". His collection of baseball caps, including one that officially proclaims him to be the Sandwich Nazi, sits atop a shelf in the kitchen, a space that is currently being made to order.

A new Viking stove has been installed along with a deli case and a large butcher block table. Darowz's homemade soups, sandwiches and salads (including Crack Mac, a tuna salad named after a commenter on BR who likened his tuna salad to the addictive drug) are pleasing the palates of Desiderio's many employees.

"It was hard to close. We did it fast and without telling people. It would have been too hard otherwise," Darowz said. The stress of owning a small business and worrying about retirement (though he claims he'll work his way to the grave) are now off his shoulders. "This situation really worked out good for everyone," he said.

And Mercurio thinks so too, "I told him to run with it, he can do whatever he thinks is best over here. He's a perfect fit for us." They've even commissioned an artist to do a life size rendering of Darowz in the dining room. The figure will hold a chalkboard that will be used to announce the daily specials. The really good news is that this quaint little cafe with seating for at least 50 will soon be open to the public. A separate entrance is being installed and the parking lot leaves plenty of room for visitors willing to make the short drive. But don't let his new environs fool you into thinking he'll allow you to use your cell phone without receiving a little heckling. Darowz has already had a handful of X-cel's regulars show up to check out his new set up, a sign of how much he and his business are truly loved.