Buffalo Rising Online

Feb 27th 2007, 7:23am By Christa Glennie Seychew

In February's issue of BRM we ran a story featuring a gumbo recipe from Buffalo restaurant Prime 490. Though Mardi Gras has ended, the ability to enjoy a bowl of gumbo will remain as long as our winter season does. Stop by Spar's European Sausage for a little andouille and mix up a pot at home.

March's issue will be stacked in shops around town in just a day or so- we hope you like it as much as we do.

Gumbo with Prime 490

The name “gumbo” is a derivation of the Bantu word for okra (kingombo). A take on traditional West African soups generally served over mashed yams, gumbo developed its current characteristics after slaves brought it to the New World. Over time the dish evolved, and techniques and ingredients began to reflect the influence of other ethnic groups including the French, Spanish and Native Americans.

There are four keys to creating successful gumbo. Most stews begin with stock and mirepoix, which consists of diced carrots, onions and celery. However, Cajun and Creole cooking use what is known as the “holy trinity” a combination of diced onions, green pepper and celery. The “trinity” finds its way into most Cajun-influenced dishes and gumbo is no exception. Okra is the second necessary component. Whether fresh or frozen, its character and viscous nature are essential to the thickening process. The third vital ingredient is a proper brown roux. Roux is the blending of equal amounts of flour and fat (oil, butter or lard), heated and simmered to the desired “stage”. Classified by its color, roux is white, blond or brown. Gumbo calls for a Cajun roux, made with oil and cooked until it becomes a deep reddish-brown. Brown roux often burns just before reaching its heavenly finale. But rest assured, our guest chef offers us a tip that will help you make a perfect roux every time. Last, but far from least in our imperative ingredient list, is the superb Creole seasoning known as filé (fee-lay) powder. First used by the Choctaw Indians, the ground, dried leaves of the sassafras tree impart a unique flavor that has become synonymous with gumbo and Creole cooking.

Prime 490 has kindly divulged their recipe for an item often served as a special, a classic gumbo that uses chicken, alligator and Spar’s marvelous andouille sausage. Although vegetarians can find pleasure in a meatless version (gumbo aux herbes), gumbo is a dish that cries out for game, fish or fowl. The protein component varies- at one point or another, pretty much anything you can think of has graced a pot of gumbo. Popular choices most often include sausage, chicken and seafood, but there are plenty of variations. Alternatives include rabbit, catfish, duck, venison, lamb, ground buffalo, quail, and, well, squirrel.

Prime’s recipe calls for alligator. Very common in the diets of those who live in the Gulf States, over 300,000 pounds of alligator meat are sold every year. And yes, in some respects alligator does taste a lot like chicken—but different. Much like fish or seafood, the preparation of alligator requires thorough rinsing. Those that complain about its flavor have undoubtedly partaken in a dish that was poorly prepared. If you are uncomfortable with alligator, or have difficulty sourcing it, additional chicken can be substituted. Prime 490’s Chicken & Sausage Gumbo with Alligator

Makes 8 meal-size servings

1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken, cut into 1” pieces - 1 lb. well-rinsed alligator tail meat, cut into 1” pieces - 1 lb. andouille sausage, cut into 1/2” thick rounds - 1 cup onion, diced - 1 cup celery, diced - 1 cup green pepper, diced - 1 tbsp. garlic, chopped - 8 cups chicken stock - 3 cups okra, cut into 1/4” thick rounds - 1 1/2 cups flour - 1 3/4 cups vegetable oil - 1 1/2 tbsp. salt - 1/2 tbsp. white pepper - 1/2 tbsp. black pepper - 1/2 tbsp. paprika - 1 tbsp. file powder - 1/2 tbsp. cayenne pepper - 2 bay leaves - 4 cups cooked long-grain white rice - 2 bundles of green onion tops, sliced -

Prepare the chicken and alligator. Combine the cayenne pepper, paprika, white and black pepper. Use 1/2 tbsp. of the spice mixture and some flour to dust the chicken. Pan-fry the chicken in 1/4 cup of vegetable oil until well-browned. Remove the chicken from the pan, drain it and set it to the side.

Strain the oil used to brown the chicken in order to remove burnt particles. Return the strained oil to the pan; add 1/4 cup of fresh vegetable oil. Prepare and cook the alligator meat in the same manner as the chicken. Remove the alligator meat from the pan, drain it and set it to the side.

Next, prepare the roux. Heat the oven to 350°. Spread the remaining flour out on a baking sheet. Toast in the heated oven until it is dark- the same color as the file powder you’ll use later in the recipe. Once it is the right color, remove it from the oven and cool. Strain the oil used to brown the alligator meat and return the oil to the pan. Add 1 cup of fresh vegetable oil (you can substitute butter here if you prefer). Slowly add the flour while stirring constantly with a whisk. Once the fat and flour have been thoroughly combined, cook the roux very slowly over medium heat, stirring often. It is done when it becomes a copper-brown color- this will take approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Add the onion, celery, bell pepper, garlic, file powder, bay leaves and the remaining spice mix. Cook for 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Skim the fat from the surface and cook for approximately 1 1⁄2 hours. When the strong roux flavor fades, add the chicken, alligator meat and andouille sausage. Cook the gumbo for 1 more hour, skimming regularly.

Sauté the okra in the remaining 1/4 cup of vegetable oil, drain and add to the gumbo. Once you have taken the gumbo off the heat, stir in the file powder. Other adjustments to the flavor can be made with additional cayenne, salt, pepper, file powder, hot sauce or other seasonings.

Serve each portion of gumbo with 1⁄4 cup of rice and garnish with sliced, green onion.

Prime 490 490 Rhode Island, 14213 716.882.3328