Buffalo Rising Online

Aug 6th 2007, 10:00am By Christa Glennie Seychew

I stopped by Torches last Monday to have some dinner and found that it was a “theme” night. Generally, if anyone uses the word “theme” regarding a restaurant or bar, I cringe. That wasn't the case on this warm summer evening.

I arrived to find that a special menu was being offered, featuring Torches interesting take on Italian cuisine. A live entertainer would also be performing classics originally sung by Italian-American singers.

Quite honestly, I have eaten enough lasagna and listened to enough Sinatra for a lifetime. But this menu was nothing like the area offerings of dried out baked ziti and margarine soaked “garlic” bread. And those grotesque caricatures we are often subjected to as Martin/Sinatra cover bands were nowhere to be seen. The Caputi-Starr Duo successfully entertained the packed bar while providing a great backdrop for those of us seated in the dining room.

My companion and I started off with a soup of tomato and basil. Made with very, very little cream, the tomato was really flavorful and the consistency even. In the center of the bowl, a drizzle of basil olive oil surrounded a single slowly melting Ciliegine. Each bite presented a different combination of these three components, making it more interesting than your average bowl of soup ($6).

A salad made of chickpeas and a variety of diced vegetables was dressed with a chilled yellow tomato sauce and olive oil. Served in a radicchio leaf, it was as good as it was beautiful, something I will certainly try to replicate at home ($6).

One of my favorite dishes at Torches is the handmade gnocchi in tomato cream sauce with shitake mushrooms and gorgonzola. Monday night's special menu offered that same stellar gnocchi with oyster mushrooms and a terrific Bolognese Sauce ($8). It was equally delicious, the nicely sauteed mushrooms adding an earthy flavor to the bright and beefy Bolognese.

Although we were quite full, the rack of lamb was hard to resist. The presentation was beautiful, and after our other courses, a perfect entree for sharing. The bones were frenched way down, leaving what has been called “the lollipop effect”. Lamb lollipops- does it get any better? The rack was grilled with rosemary and topped with olive tapenade. Served with a lemon and honey hummus, it was the highlight of the meal. The hummus was a fantastic addition to the mellow gaminess of the tender lamb ($36).

The recommended wine came from the Chef's Reserve list. A fruity Dain 2005 Syrah Smart Set from White Hawk Vineyard of Santa Barbara, it paired well with our meal. At first taste it was full of rich blackberry flavor, finishing with a subtle pepperiness.

After a bit of pleasant conversation and some time to digest we ordered one of the evening's dessert specials, a strawberry shortcake dressed in the garb of a Baked Alaska. A moist disk of pound cake was topped with cold, creamy strawberry ice cream and then completely covered with vanilla meringue. The chef presented the dessert to my companion and I, browning the meringue tableside ($7).

Not every Monday at Torches will offer a “theme”, but it will offer entertainment, free hors d'oeuvres at the bar and Torches' consistently delicious food. Check out what you've been missing. And, if you prefer the casual outdoor scene that accompanies American barbecue, here's a link that might interest you.

Torches
1141 Kenmore Avenue, Buffalo, 14217
716. 447.7915
www.torches1141.com