Buffalo Rising Online

Feb 7th 2007, 9:47am By Christa Glennie Seychew

Great tunes, good brews on tap, a lengthy “by-the-glass” vino selection, and a venue that somehow maintains its intimacy even when people are spilling out onto the street. These are just a few of the reasons why Allen Street Hardware has become a destination location for many.

Though a popular dinner spot, Hardware’s clientele especially enjoys the “communal” portions of the menu, (sandwiches, appetizers, and cheese selection) ideal for snacking regardless of the hour. In early January, owners Mark and Charlie Goldman and Chef Billy Ott launched a new menu more conducive to that experience.

Linguini with clams was on the menu, the night I visited, providing and option for guests with a desire for an entrée. But the rest of the menu highlighted small, light bites, or food that was designed to share.

Lovely salads top the menu. Simpler salads are available for only $6-$7: the house salad, classic Caesar, and caprese are all great meal starters. If you’d like something heartier, a few extra dollars will afford you a salad featuring oriental veggies, sesame chicken and a ginger soy dressing. Another choice, the large seafood salad served with poached shrimp and scallops is as appealing as the gentle spinach salad, complete with goat cheese and smoked salmon.

The portion of the menu that most appeals to me falls under the heading of “Snacks”. There, you can find finger-friendly foods intended for sharing. Marinated olives with a tapenade bruschetta or baked brie with nuts and dried fruits are obvious accompaniments to a good glass of wine. The bread basket comes with a variety of fresh and toasted breads alongside three types of spread. On our visit it featured classic hummus, (which was perfectly lemony) spinach and artichoke (mild and unlike any of those available at chain restaurants- thank goodness), and a very bright blend made of sundried tomato, goat cheese and white wine. Our server was more than happy to refill our basket when the bread ran low, making this “snack” alone quite filling. The cheese board has been one of their most popular offerings for a long time and still holds its footing amongst the new menu items. This area of the menu consists of nine items and all of them look delicious. Next time, I’m diving into the country pate with mustards, cornichons and melba toast.

Fresh soups are offered daily. A bowl of gumbo or “15 bean” would sit perfectly alongside a portion of a panini or wrap.

Our consumption of copious amounts of goat cheese, sundried tomato and white wine spread steered us away from the selection which combines goat cheese with portabellas, hot peppers, red peppers and artichoke hearts. Another little beauty is the meatloaf with swiss, basil and tomato; or perhaps the classic NY Strip with provolone, mushrooms and caramelized onions is more your speed. The bread refills that had allowed us to polish off our spreads (and my dining companion’s vegetarianism) moved us to order the panini made of melted asiago, spinach, perfectly crisp asparagus and fresh tomatoes. All of these delectable combinations can be ordered as a panini or a wrap, cut into appropriate portions and served on a long cutting board, making them easy to share.

“Our aim at Hardware has always been to provide the neighborhood, first and foremost, a home base, somehwere they feel at home.” Charlie told me. "I think the food, drink and ambience all provide that feeling. We hired a famous Buffalo chef, Billy Ott, to take the reins of the kitchen. We want the food to be eclectic, affordable, and homey. Same with the drink....we're city people and we want to provide the people of the area with a cool, funky, neighborhood joint to be at home at.”

Nothing on the new menu is more than $12, with most items falling between $8 and $9, making it easy to conduct your own tasting party. I would suggest that a table of four, depending on the time of evening, consider ordering four to eight plates, sampling as much of the menu as you can. It is often as much fun to talk about what you’re eating as it is to eat it.

Allen Street Hardware 245 Allen 882.8843