Buffalo Rising Online

Nov 10th 2006, 5:11pm By Charlie Quill

There's something about settling in at the counter at the Acropolis with a newspaper, a plate of French fries with gravy and a cup of black coffee that always sets things right with the world for me.

Perhaps it's the fact that for 27 years, the family has operated this popular neighborhood diner at 708 Elmwood Ave. without trying to transform it into a fine-dining destination, a fate that has befallen many of Buffalo's Greek diners over the years.

Or maybe it's the fact that the Acropolis hearkens to the golden age of diners, when places like Your Host (showing my age now) and the Acropolis's predecessor, The Captain's Table (again, the age) served dark, strong coffee late into the night and the booths each had their own mini jukebox, bolted to the wall, hovering over the end of the table. The atmosphere at the Acropolis embodies all the best qualities and captures the spirit of that era without trying and without seeming dated or old-fashioned (full disclosure: they added wraps to the menu several years ago, so they're definitely not old fashioned).

Most likely, though, the reason I love the Acropolis so much and go there so frequently is the dependable smile and easy manner of server/manager Nicki Tsouflidis, whose parents own the business and who has worked here since she was 14. She treats everyone who comes in like a personal friend (which is mostly the case) and seems to always know what's happening around the neighborhood. All the servers at the Acropolis have that same familiarity with the clientele, one of the many charms that gives the place a comforting and irresistible appeal.

And then there's the hearty and uncomplicated American and Greek menu: burgers, souvlaki, gyros, Spanakopita, club sandwiches, breakfast any time of day. One of my favorites is the grilled ham and cheese. When there's room, (which ain't often ,Aei they're not stingy with the portions), I like to finish with a rice pudding ,Aei makes me feel like a kid again. Prices are right where they should be and, since they're on the west side of the street, the patio gets great sunlight all morning and most of the afternoon. The patio is also a great spot for watching the lively hustle and flow of neighborhood.

As I said, this is a neighborhood joint. A large part of its identity emanates from the sense of community here. This is the quintessential coffee shop/hang-out, where the owner still wears an apron and the customers are a regular cast of neighborhood denizens and characters. There's Mother Nature Bob at the end of the counter, a group of bank employees from across the street in the corner booth. The owner of a nearby boutique stands near the entrance, waiting for a take-out order as she talks on her cell phone. The owner of a well-known construction company is sitting next to me, reading the newspaper, a cheeseburger supreme falling off the sides of the plate in front of him. The customers know each other and talk about the news of the day, their families, plans for the weekend. Again, community. If the Elmwood Village is an extended family, then the Acropolis is the family dining room or breakfast nook.

For these reasons and more, the seats at the Acropolis are seldom empty.

The Acropolis is open from 7 a.m. ,Aei 9 p.m., Monday-Saturday, Sundays 7:30 a.m.-4 p.m. If you're in a hurry, call ahead for take-out at 716.886.2977.