Buffalo Rising Online

May 22nd 2007, 7:40am By Laila Bondi

The bad news is that The Coda served their last brunch of the season on Sunday. The good news is that I was able to enjoy it. I joined two friends right at noon in one of the cozy booths, while a few other tables were already filling up.

Brunch is not brunch to me without a good Bloody Mary. We started with a round, and with the addition of some hot sauce, it was a lively way to begin our meal. While perusing the menu, our server brought us bread and some homemade butter; one was regular and the other flavored with strawberry, lemon and pastis-a French, anisette-flavored liqueur. The bread was delicious and was quickly devoured.

The soups and salads sounded intriguing-chilled melon soup, cream of spinach and a refreshing combination of romaine, watermelon and feta-but I was in the mood for classic Eggs Benedict. Other brunch options included French toast, frittata and shakshouka-and Israeli dish of spiced eggs and tomatoes. We also tried an appetizer-samosas with hummous and lamb filling. Three dainty samosas came out and my only complaint is that they were gone too quickly. The Eggs Benedict arrived and was accompanied by potatoes and a cucumber-tomato-red onion salad. The Canadian bacon was some of the best I’ve ever eaten.

Although we were more than satisfied with our meal, we forged ahead and ordered desserts; Chef Roo’s classic and timeless crème brulee, an apple crisp with Earl Grey ice cream and the experimental ice cream flight. It’s impossible to go to The Coda without ending the meal trying whatever wild combinations are featured. This week’s selections included strawberry-red wine reduction, chocolate-Gorgonzola, peanut butter-poached pear, raspberry-pastis and Vermont maple syrup. The Vermont maple was my favorite but the chocolate Gorgonzola was oddly compelling.

We strolled out of the restaurant and enjoyed a walk through the beautiful old Victorian homes. Sadly, I won’t be able to enjoy this fine brunch spot for the rest of the summer but am already looking forward to fall. The Coda will serve dinner through May 27th and will reopen in the fall.

Pictured above is my dinner from Sunday night, a delicate, moist salmon featuring a marvelously crispy skin and bright fennel slaw served atop an eggplant caponata featuring plump, juicy sultanas. A side of vegetables and a touch of mashed potatoes complemented the rich dish. We also enjoyed the Experimental Ice Cream Flight, a must-have for even the most sated of diners. The flavor featuring a strawberry red wine reduction was fantastic as was the raspberry pastis and extremely rich and velvety Earl Grey. -Christa

Reservations can be made through The Coda's website and by phone.

The Coda, 350 Pennsylvania, 362.0435, call for hours