Drinking in Buffalo: First in a Series
We've been playfully referred to as "a drinking city with a football problem". But in all seriousness, Buffalo is a city with a healthy, thriving bar culture that has become just as deep rooted in our tradition as our architecture, food and winter snowfalls have. Taking a look back at history, I was happily surprised to see that Buffalo's drinking status is not just local lore but has been well documented over the years by historians, visitors and hometown citizens alike.
Ever since the Erie Canal construction brought the first influx of hard working (and hard drinking) immigrants to the area, the bar scene has been an integral part of Buffalo. In 1850 there were 500 saloons and gaming establishments in the city or one for every 84 citizens. By 1893, when the city had grown in size and sophistication, there was a pub or saloon for every 100 people, literally translating to a 'bar on every corner'.
Imagine Buffalo a century ago, bustling with German, Irish and Polish immigrants all meeting in corner bars to be with friends and unwind after a long day. Many of the same drinking establishments that they patronized are still bars today. Ulrich's Tavern, for example, has been in operation on the corner of Virginia and Ellicott streets since 1868. It paints a picture of an exciting time in the city's past and brings more relevance to the drinking traditions we share today.
Owing a debt to the area's heavy German population, local breweries gained momentum in the late 1800's. By 1908, the city was producing 31 million gallons of beer, enough to flow continuously over Niagara Falls for a minute and a half. Nearly all of it was consumed in Buffalo.
When the era of Prohibition brought the national bar scene to a halt, Buffalo was still awash in alcohol. Our tradition of drinking made many local law officials look the other way on the estimated 8,000 speakeasies that existed in the city, including the roaring 20's Buffalo mayor Francis Schwab, who actually appealed to the federal government to end or modify Prohibition. Some Buffalonians even had an active role in the bootlegging trade and smuggled alcohol from Canada in motorboats on Lake Erie.
The one person in Buffalo who did take Prohibition era drinking seriously was DA William J. Donovan, whose raids included many present day bars and clubs including the Saturn Club, the Country Club of Buffalo, Volker's on Elmwood and the Barrelhouse on West Chippewa. But even Donovan failed to strike much fear in Buffalonians and despite the occasional raid you could barely tell Prohibition was in effect.
Today the city is still well connected to its roots, with bars serving as the common ground to meet friends, watch sporting events, celebrate the holidays and stay warm in winter. As an ode to our drinking past, BRO will begin reviewing bars, everything from the undiscovered gems to the Buffalo mainstays. We want to know more about the bars people love: the atmosphere, music, beer and wine selection, bartenders and what makes the place unique.
Of course, everyone has an opinion of their favorite drinking spot and I'm taking your suggestions of where to visit. Watch for further posts in this series!
Historical credits:
Stephen R. Powell, Rushing the Growler: A History of Brewing and Drinking in Buffalo
Photo credit:
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Comment Options
Gustav
can't believe it took me so long to get here...introduced on one very fine summer day...thank you, you...in praise of three hour lunches!
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TEKE1
How about some organized Pub Walks. The walks could touch on the history and the people in the area and the bars itself, they could even have a theme such as industrial, literary, theatrical, ect.
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Kelly
I would totally be into something like that, Teke! Other cities do it, and we have more (and better) bars than many of them here!
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viking
gaming establishments? ---- as in casinos, card clubs, bingo halls, or something having to do with physical activities? basket ball etc. or whatever? and was it legal?
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David
I am relatively new to the Buffalo area and am always searching for bars serving up harder to find brews,Coles to me is the best in town your columns may help me find more.
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Marilyn Rodgers
If you do a pub crawl, have someone check out the tunnels under the main drags of Chippewa and Main Streets (extending, may I add, to City Hall). They're prime for this type of tour as they were important routes for the Prohibition period.
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sbrof
ohh beer and buffalo go hand in hand. in 1901 about 50% of buffalo was of German decent. There were 5 major breweries in what was in the medical campus within a stones throw of Ulrich;s As for bars my god there are so many good ones were to start.
My personal favorite is Laughlin's relatively new but Pat is probably the best bartender in Buffalo and makes every trip fun.
or continuing on great bartenders the guy from Founding fathers is a good time. That guys knows more history facts than anyone I have ever met AND they give out nachos to much on while drinking. How can you go wrong.
As for best beers I tend to favor the Hefeweisen and for those there are only two places that I know of worth shaking a stick at, Pearl Street and Ulrich's Pearl street brews their own really good hefe but the atmosphere isn't one to chill and talk to the barkeep. Ulrich's imports theirs from Germany serves it in a proper German beer glass which makes for a memorable time.
ok enough out of me about beer :)
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eac
If you read through my old posts, you'll find most of the good beer bars have been covered at one time or another. Although increasingly I find almost every bar offers something beyond the staples, when it comes to bars that go the extra mile, I'd sum them up thusly:
Sterling Tavern, Mr. Goodbar, Coles, McGarretts, Colter Bay, Allen St. Hardware, Prespa, Ulrich's and Pearl Street.
The last of which is the focus of a story in the upcoming issue of the print edition, in fact: look for it soon!
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nicoleshoe
i LOVE coulter bay...prespa def has a great beer list and hardware has this excellent beer right now called purple haze....highly recommend! but in reality? i can always go for a molson light. im not fancy. but you'd be surprised how many establishments do not carry this favorite canadian beer.
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sbrof
I had one of the best Labatt Blues ever down at Town Line a week ago..
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emilie
I love the bar crawl idea, maybe something we can put together around St. Patrick's Day.
Thanks for all the excellent info on different bars in Buffalo, keep it coming!
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Jas
Does anyone know where I can get a copy of "Rushing the Growler"? I've searched many places and cant find it anywhere.
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emilie
http://www.historian.org/growler/
You can purchase the book through Amazon at the above link.
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David
I hit up both Pizza Plants regularly as well as Cole's and am loving the fact they have alot of harder to find Michigan micros on tap,seeing that Iam from there and ejoyed alot of those beer in the past its great.I have been to Colter Bay and enjoyed it as well as Mr. Goodbar. I'll be hitting Alternative Brews at some point as well and Sterling Place,Iam always looking for someone to grab a pint with if anyone is interested.
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Sharon
I got my copy of "Rushing the Growler" at Flying Bison. PS Love the history lesson
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Jordan
Can you call it a review if there is no danger of negative commentary? I sincerely hope that you will indeed "review" these establishments. Sometimes negative reviews help an establishment fix what they are doing wrong.
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zen
The Mohawk has the best canned Pabst Blue Ribbon. the metallic flavor of can really comes through there for some reason. Dead Guy or Delerium at Cole's!
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digger
There is a Beer Club forming at Ulrich's Tavern in downtown Buffalo that is taking in the pub crawling concept check out http://ulrichstavern.net/index.php?page=whatsnew
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2L
My favorite place to get dressed up and go out is Hardware. My favorite spot to relax, chat and enjoy a great beer is definitely Ulrich's.
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david
zen,
Think you mean...Delirium Tremens!
Is there a chapter of "Confrerie van de Roze Olifant" here in Buffalo?
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eac
David-
hoi, spreekt u nederlands?
Delerium is good stuff certainly, but let's not go overboard here- the original Belgian golden ale, Duval, still kicks ass. Did you know, by the way, that Duval used to be a dark, Scottish ale style beer... when lighter colored beers became popular, they switched up their malt bill but kept the yeast and as well, the high alcohol content, and dus een bier geboren was!
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david
eac,
leider nicht, nur Deutsch. Duval is outstanding!
Een goede dag verder!
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zen
Sorry abt the spelling, I was drinking it as I wrote. Even so it was named as "Best Beer in the World" in 1998 at the World Beer Championships in Chicago. I always end up in "entanglements" after a few of those. If anyone does know about the Confrerie van de Roze Olifant, please do indeed post it.
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treasure hunter
Game on! Check back to see if you should add or remove a letter!
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treasure hunter
speed points, you!
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Andre
EM Enjoyed reading your column. I spent many a nite in some of those places. Took your aunt to lunch many times to Ulrick's Especially when she worked next door.
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treasure hunter
have to keep score...
30 minute punishment ;)...first 12hour delay...
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honey, silk
so is it add or remove?
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treasure hunter
not yet...
your next letter drop and clue stop is located here +42-()() 54' 33.34", -78-()() 51' 59.45" behind the building and taped to the stairs - look around.
this will only be available after 1130am on saturday. text [same thing] when you have located or need to beg for another clue :) same price, yum...help only available via text on saturday...
move now to lebkuchen x place and set up same name...you'll have instructions soon regarding which letters to add or drop.
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