Buffalo Rising Online

Sep 19th 2006, 8:23am By Christa Glennie Seychew

Kirstie and James Strusienski have owned and operated Fiddleheads for the last four and a half years. The two met as students of the NCCC culinary program in the early 90is. After graduating, they both went on to finish their training. Kirstie studied at CIA and James went to the Hospitality Administration Program at Buff State. With their degrees, they could have opened a restaurant anywhere, but they chose to buy Allentownis Fiddleheads from its original owners.

During the day James works for Erie County as the Nutrition Coordinator for the countyis senior dining program. At night, he can be found cooking Fiddleheads fare. Kirstie is at the restaurant full time. iRight now weire developing the fall menu,i she explains to me. iItis sitting on the table at home. When I get home, I add something, maybe cross something out. The next time I see it, heis added something or taken something out. Thatis how weire finding time to work on the menu.i

The food at Fiddleheads is contemporary and adventuresome. The current menu lists seven entrees, one of which is a 14oz Pork Rib Chop with Papaya-Brie Quesadillas and Espresso Barbecue Sauce. Or maybe youid prefer Seared Boneless Duck Breast with Coconut-Curry Risotto, Raisins and Mint Raita? The new menu should be ready shortly.

Kirstie mentioned that we can expect to see an entrEe of tilapia served with a beet and cream sauce. With that as my only hint, I feel safe to say that we can look forward to a flavorful autumn bill of fare.

When I asked Kirstie about other changes her menu is likely to make, she said that it depends on the garden. iYou mean the length of our growing season?i I asked. iYes,i she replied, iit all depends on whatis growing in my parentis garden.i Much of the produce at Fiddleheads comes from there, in fact the rhubarb in todayis recipe did. The sour cherries, as well as much of the other produce, are purchased from friends that own farms in Niagara County. Curione in Sanborn is one and Kroeing is the other. iI also buy all of my fish from Hayes on Harlem Road, and a lot of things come from Guerciois. We make all of our own bread. I really just want the freshest product I can get.i

Fiddleheads just bought its first freezer two years ago. iWe finally had to,i Kirstie told me. iWith the Allentown Art Festival, we couldnit make it through the weekend without a freezer. But before that, we didnit need one. We really donit now, everything we use is fresh.i

Cherry-Rhubarb Crumb Cobbler is her offering to us today. Served in individual soufflE dishes, this is a lovely little dessert. Although sour-cherries are no longer in season, Kirstie recommends using fresh frozen cherries. I recommend making sure that you have some good dairy on hand. No cobbler should be eaten without quality vanilla ice cream, homemade whipped cream, or a dollop of creme fraiche. This recipe serves 6-8 guests.

Cherry Rhubarb Crumb Cobbler

Filling: 5 lbs. of pitted sour cherries 2 to 3 lbs. coarsely chopped fresh rhubarb 3 cups of sugar Dissolve together: 1/4 cup cornstarch 1/2 cup water

In a large pot combine cherries, rhubarb and sugar. Bring to a boil. Add the dissolved cornstarch and return to a boil to thicken. (You may have to add more cornstarch if you have very juicy cherries.) Once thickened to desired consistency, remove from heat.

Topping: 1 stick soft butter 1 cup sugar 1 cup brown sugar 1/2 cup flour 1 cup oats

Measure all ingredients into a mixing bowl. Using hands or a wooden spoon, combine all of the ingredients until they become mealy.

Heat oven to 350Int. Pour the cherry rhubarb filling into 6-8 individual soufflE dishes. Top with the crumb topping. Place them all on a baking sheet and bake for 20 n 25 minutes until bubbly and brown.

When I asked Kirstie what she wanted people to know about Fiddleheads, she said iWeire here, we serve good, fresh, homemade food. What else do you need to know?i And, sheis right. With homemade bread, locally grown produce and high-quality meats and fish, what else do you really need to know?

Fiddleheads is located at 62 Allen Street. They are open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations can be made by calling 717-883-4166.