Buffalo Rising's Sunday Suppers w/Chef Chris Silverstein


Bouillabaisse (boo-yah-base) is on the menu today, but not just any old bouillabaisse. This recipe is for Louisiana Bouillabaisse, whose style is in keeping with that of Chef Silverstein's cozy little New Orleans influenced restaurant.
Traditional Bouillabaisse hails from Marseilles, France. The name comes from the process by which the flavorful fish stew is made. The ingredients are not added all at once; the all-important fish broth is brought to a boil (bouillir) and then each of the three (or more) types of fish are added one by one, each time the broth being allowed to come full boil before the heat is reduced (abaisser). With Louisiana Bouillabaisse, the variation of fish is limited, making it a more reasonably priced dinner option for those of us who don't live near the sea. Additionally, it does not call for a rouille (a paste of bread crumbs, garlic, olive oil and chilies) like its French counterpart, and the cooking process differs as well, making preparation all the simpler.
For this recipe we ventured to Broadway Seafood for fresh fish and shellfish trucked in from Manhattan by owner Steve Lee. He visits the massive fish warehouses there on the city docks multiple times a week, returning to Buffalo with heaps of the good stuff. If you’d like, he’ll even clean the fish for you while you wait. At Broadway Seafood the prices are hard to beat and the fish was fresher than that we were able to find at the supermarket. Chef Silverstein has selected a variety of fish and seafood for this recipe, but keep in mind that what's fresh is always what's best. Feel free to improvise based on what's available from your fishmonger, with the knowledge that lean fish is the ideal choice for any bouillabaisse recipe.

Chef Silverstein says that the real trick to making this Sunday (or any day) supper its best is to take the time to make it correctly. He suggests that homemade fish stock is the way to go, but for those of us in a hurry, a prepared substitute from the supermarket is acceptable. “This dish requires care. Too many people use a weak stock as the base, and to compensate they will cook all of the seafood together and hope that it straightens out the stock. Most of all, if you want this dish to be at its best, take your time to make the broth properly. Cook each of the proteins separately, and you will be rewarded.”
Louisiana Bouillabaisse serves 6-8
1/2 lb sea scallops · 1 lb medium to large shrimp, shelled and de-veined · 1 lb mussels, scrubbed well, beards removed · 3/4 lb red snapper fillet · 3/4 lb monkfish fillets (or other white fish such as halibut or grouper) · 1/4 lb whole crayfish (available at Asian markets) · 1/2 lb crayfish tails · 1/4 lb unsalted butter · 4 oz olive oil · 4 garlic cloves, minced · 1 onion, diced · 1 carrot, diced · 1/2 leek, diced · 1/2 celery stalk, diced · 1/2 cup dry white wine · 6 cups fish stock · 2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped · 1 small can tomato paste · 20 threads of saffron ·2 small potatoes, peeled and diced · 1/4 cup chervil, chopped · salt and pepper to taste
Wash and clean the seafood. Cut shrimp, snapper and monkfish into large pieces. Place each type of seafood into individual ovenproof dishes. To make the broth: Add the butter and olive oil to a large pot. Sweat garlic, onion, carrot, leek, and celery, until soft
and translucent, but not brown. Deglaze the pan by adding the white wine to the
mixture and simmer until the volume is reduced by half. Add cold water to the pot to cover the vegetables and bring to a simmer. Add the fish stock, chopped tomatoes, tomato paste, saffron threads, chervil and freshly crushed black pepper to taste. Simmer, skimming regularly. After 45 minutes, add potatoes. After an additional 45 minutes, strain the broth, return the potatoes and liquid to the pot and simmer until desired consistency. Adjust seasoning to taste.
Preheat oven to 350°.
Once the broth is complete, ladle it into the baking dishes, thoroughly covering the contents. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the seafood is cooked through and the mussels have opened. Discard any unopened mussels. Add seafood and sauce from each pan to a serving bowl. Serve immediately, accompanied by a slice of hearty bread.
Lagniappes
244 Allen Street, Buffalo 14201
716.883.3663
Broadway Seafood
The Broadway Market
999 Broadway, Buffalo, 14212
716.893.1050

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Comment Options
scooter
This guy is an amazing Chef. His place is one of my favorite places to eat. Awesome food, service, price and he don't skimp.
This dish looks good. Thanks Chris.
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zen
If you haven't been to Lagniappes... then go! Chris works really hard to put out some great Louisiana inspired food.
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bhorvath
I've never seen a bouillebaisse with that type of broth, I wonder how the chef made it
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Metropolis
Awesome article. I love these monthly posts Christa, especially when you include local sources for the ingredients (I've sang Steve Lee's praises before).
I'd be interrested to hear how he suggests making a fish stock from scratch. Heads? Bones?
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stuffbox
Wow, will this always be on the menu? I love this place as well. Chris is a great person who brings a lot to Allen.
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Deliking
Which --- one (1) --- ingredient --- came from, or was from the local scene (?) --- for this example of using local products.
Was the first paragraph a joke, a test of attention or what.
Wait,----- I get it---- the water, how clever.
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Deliking
Bouillabaisse is a traditional Provençal fish stew originating from the port city of Marseille. The French and English form bouillabaisse comes from the Provençal Occitan word bolhabaissa [ˌbujaˈbajsɔ], a compound that consists of the two verbs bolhir (to boil) and abaissar (to lower (heat)). Bouillabaisse is a fish stock containing different kinds of cooked fish and shellfish and vegetables, flavored with a variety of herbs and spices such as garlic, orange peel, basil, bay leaf, fennel and saffron. There are at least three kinds of fish in a traditional bouillabaisse, typically scorpionfish (fr: rascasse); sea robin (fr: grondin); and European conger (fr: congre); and it can also include gilt-head bream (fr: dorade); turbot; monkfish (fr: lotte or baudroie); mullet; or silver hake (fr: merlan) It also usually includes shellfish and other seafood such as sea urchins (fr: oursins), mussels (fr: moules); small crabs (fr: etrilles); spider crab (fr: araignées de mer) or octopus. More expensive versions may add langoustine. Vegetables such as leeks, onions, tomatoes, celery and potatoes are boiled together with the broth and served with the fish. The broth is traditionally served with a rouille, a mayonnaise made of olive oil, garlic, saffron and cayenne pepper on grilled slices of bread. In Marseille, the broth is served first in a bowl containing the bread and rouille, with the seafood and vegetables served
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ChristaSeychew
Thank you for that, Viking. I'm glad to see that your cut and paste skills are up to snuff. It explains the proper use of grammar, punctuation and syntax in your comment.
Let's remember that this recipe is for a Louisiana version of the dish, a recipe that has been offered to us by a local chef.
In response to your first comment, regular readers know that it is Sunday Suppers' goal to showcase recipes offered by local chefs that feature ingredients sourced locally. In this instance, the various fish products came from a small, independently owned fish monger and a small, independently owned Asian market. Many restaurants rely on ingredients from major wholesalers, most homecooks rely on the products available at major supermarkets. Sunday Suppers is about sourcing products that are either grown locally or sold by small Buffalo-based businesses.
In a previous post, when asked if you'd like to write for BR, your response was "it's easier to be the Devils Advocate [sic]." You're right.
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Deliking
Thank you for providing the opportunity to the practice my new skill, and test my powers of observation. The pols running today could definitely use your spin expertise and writing ability.
By the way the information about the restaurant, recipe and chef were interesting, and shows just how different perspectives result from personal intervention. The Devil made me do it.
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