Buffalo Rising Online

Mar 12th, 11:36am By Chef Bill Metzgar

A Spring Dinner of "Small Plates" is a lighter alternative to the classic sit-down Easter feast, with a menu that is easily managed without slaving over a stove all day. Even more exciting is the idea of deconstructing the traditional dishes of some of Buffalo's old neighborhoods-German, Italian, Polish, Irish, and Russian-into a meal that your guests can enjoy gathered round a table or walking about with a plate in hand, enjoying each other's company. I think this sounds fun and is something most anyone can pull off.

There’s nothing typical about a “small plates” party. There’s no Appetizer, Fish Course, Salad, Entrée, Dessert format. The selections all contribute equally and are fun to set up in various parts of the home or larger rooms to get people moving about, discovering what you’ve prepared for them and stopping for an instant at the table to share a moment with friends or new acquaintances over a portion of the varieties that make up this meal. Frequently, a wine pairing for that plate can be served nearby, offered with smaller tasting glasses (to avoid any over-indulging and dulling of the senses to the many layers of flavors you’ve presented).

This being the season of re-birth and awakening, you find that every culture has a variation on the theme of “the egg.” They lend themselves to pre-preparation, so they can be an easy component to our party.

For our party we’ll begin with the German classic dish, Eier in Gruner Sosse (Eggs in Green Sauce), a simple dish of hard cooked eggs in a mayonnaise and herb sauce. It can be made in minutes the day of the party for a super-fresh satisfying dish. Serve it with a soft lahvosh or crisp matza bread for easy handling. Why not pair with a “flinty” dry Riesling from the Rhineland to cut the richness of the sauce?

A lovely herb crusted Leg of Lamb Also would also lend itself well to pre-preparation. Buying it boneless saves a lot of fussing with it. A nice rub of classic fresh “bitter herbs” would be nice, including parsley, chives, rosemary and lemon zest. Roast it the day before and serve it cold and sliced on a platter with horseradish sauce and a nice Oregon Pinot Noir. Sandwiches can be made from the aforementioned lahvosh.

Of course, our Polish neighbors need to be recognized. Kielbasa cut on the bias in small one or two bite portions can be heated and served in a nice beer broth that keeps them warm and moist for service. What could be better than WNY's own Weber’s Hot Horseradish Mustard to accompany this? A dozen mini-Kaiser rolls, perhaps?

Some delicious roasted root vegetables with a Guinness Stout sauce can represent "The Ward". Wedge cut carrots, parsnips, potatoes and Brussels sprouts (not technically a root vegetable, but they are mini-cabbages and will play that role in this Irish inspired dish). Again, the roasting is done before hand and they’re reheated to serve with a rich, reduced Stout sauce. Just provide more Stout for the accompanying beverage!

The pride of the old West Side is Torta Pasqualina. This is a little more involved in preparation, but the filling can be made a day in advance and assembled and popped in the oven after church on Easter Sunday, finishing in time for the guests who’ll rave about a pie made with ricotta and parmesan cheese, spinach, and whole eggs baked inside! It’s supposed to have 33 layers of dough, one each for the years of Christ’s life, but, we'll use prepared phyllo dough for ease. A soft Soave or Chardonnay will be wonderful with this.

Kulich (Russian Easter Bread) will finish the meal nicely. It is a cross between Brioche and Challah and requires kneading, proofing, etc. Perhaps a pan of hot crossed buns or other fruit spiked bread from the neighborhood bakery could be a stand in. Otherwise, enjoy the kids’ chocolate bunnies and Peeps (but, don’t forget to open the package to let those Peeps get stale!)

Follow the pdf for a downloadable version of this Buffalo inspired Small Plates Spring Dinner.


Bill Metzgar, the chef/owner of ACME Personal Chef Service, is a 25-year veteran of the Hospitality Industry. Educated right here in WNY at Niagara County Community College and Buffalo State College, Metzgar has always had a passion for cooking and teaching.

ACME Personal Chef Service offers hardworking folks an alternative to today's fast food trend. He will plan menus, shop for the groceries and prepare delicious, healthy meals for these busy families, active seniors and career-oriented singles.

Other services include experiencing ACME professional chef's insights and expertise by hosting a cooking class right in your own home. Interactive Dinner Parties are just a wonderful way to host your group of friends for an entertaining and informative night out.

This weekend, at the Wintermarket on Elmwood, Chef Bill will be demonstrating recipes using ingredients from the market's specialty vendors.

Come down, meet Bill and have a bite with some local flavor. Chef will be sampling two delicious dishes. The first is a Mediterranean Bomber made with Avenue Boys' Fresh Chicken Sausage w/ Feta and Spinach, served on The Artful Table's Pane Oliva bread, topped with delicious Pesto Cream from White Cow Dairy and escarole braised with Chateau Buffalo's Sparkling Cider. The second choice is Late Winter Braised Pork Chops made with Blossom Hill's fantastic organic pork, apples and a grape au jus made with jam from Blackman

For more information about Chef Bill Metzgar, contact ACME Personal Chef Service at 716.870.5718.