Buffalo Rising Online

Aug 28th 2007, 9:46am By Christa Glennie Seychew

In BR's first Chef's Challenge we didn't expect chefs to prepare multiple dishes, but we found that a few did. We solved that by selecting the best of their offerings and comparing it with the other contestant's entries. For this challenge, our second, we asked chefs, via a written letter, to prepare only one dish with the following exceptions: the dish could be a duo or trio, where multiple cohesive preparations appear on one plate, or, the use of the mystery ingredient could be in a starch or other side dish that accompanies a main protein.

Prime 490, in their eagerness, prepared three dishes for me to taste. The main dish was made by Executive Chef Leonard Mordino, who is new at Prime 490 having come on board just a few weeks before my visit. Mordino is the former chef and owner of Hollywood Pastas on Delaware, and a one time chef at many area restaurants including La Marina, Tempo and the Buffalo Chophouse.

For BR's Chef's Challenge: White Cow Yogurt, Chef Mordino prepared sea bass by rubbing it with orange, olive oil and mint, broiling it and then plating it with a sauce made of White Cow's yogurt, reduced Grand Marnier, orange juice and zest and fresh mint. The bass was perfectly executed, but overpowered by the very strong and very sweet yogurt sauce. The other two dishes offered to me by Prime 490 were made by Sous Chef Mike Strom. Strom has himself been at Prime 490 for only four months, but his experience at Hutch's has given him the chops to be a viable competitor in this challenge. Strom prepared a raspberry and strawberry semifreddo. The yogurt was sweetened by the ripe berries and the overall flavor enhanced by the addition of raspberry vodka. This dish was light and fresh and, surprisingly, the only dessert entered in the competition.

Strom's second entry, and the dish that has won Prime 490 second place, is a chilled soup. Yogurt lends itself to chilled soup, a preparation I fully expected to see when I selected the mystery ingredient. And though chilled soup is what I anticipated, and Strom's version used cucumber (a common ingredient in a chilled soup), it had a few other ingredients that gave it fantastic dimensionality. White Cow's Yogurt and the cucumber were paired with cumin, jalapeno, cracked pepper and a touch of sugar. The low, smooth heat and the complexity of the flavors weren't apparent until after each spoonful of cool and creamy soup was swallowed.

It was delicious, but it didn't have a complete hold on me until Strom pointed out that I hadn't yet tasted it with the pickled vegetables that garnished its center. Sweet and spicy pickled carrot, red onion and jalapeno lent not only crunch, but also a bright heat which further enhanced the flavors in the soup. Let me add, that I am not one for hot food. I like things that are spicy, but I find that shear heat virtually burns my palate, making it difficult for me to taste much of anything. This dish really walked the line, each sweet and spicy bite into a sliver of pickled jalapeno sent a wave of heat up the back of my neck and caused the hair on my arms to raise. The effect wasn't that of a burn, more like a tease- a really good tease.

This dish was a delight, I'd even venture to call it sexy, a word I wouldn't generally use to describe food. It is something that I would happily eat again and again. I can only hope that I will be able to replicate it at home myself.

Prime 490 has two new chefs, a new menu and a new vibe. The steak dishes that Prime is known for are still here, but you'll also find a good selection of pastas and entrees that feature seafood, veal, chicken and pork. “We have something for everyone,” Mordino tells me. “We have entertainment on the weekends and can accommodate any type of customer here for any type of event. We've started serving lunch, too. This is a great place to take a date, come on business, or enjoy with your family. It's the kind of place to be if you want a good meal at a good price. We have a lot of regulars that love it here, but more people need to know what we're about.”

Though they do have new chefs, a new menu, new lunch service and new price points, Prime 490 still has a beautiful space, fantastic patio, upstairs banquet rooms, a fantastic wine list and free parking.

This just in- Beginning on Thursday, Prime 490 will be running this fantastic soup on their specials menu this week.

Prime 490
490 Rhode Island Street, Buffalo 14213
716.882.2328