Buffalo Rising Online

Feb 21st, 10:26am By Michael Franco

Last Friday night a friend and I went gallery hopping, ending our tour at the Albright-Knox on Elmwood. After viewing the current exhibition, The Panza Collection, we found that our own palates were in need of color; our stomachs, sustenance. Turning our attention to Muse, a restaurant located in the gallery, we found more than we had first anticipated.

Having enjoyed Muse on other occasions for lunch and Sunday brunch, this was my first visit for dinner. In the daylight hours the restaurant is filled with natural light supplied by the wall of windows facing the sculpture garden. Weather permitting, guests can enjoy a meal on the patio set just outside the restaurant, in the museum's sculpture garden. Al fresco dining is not usually my preference. However, even I can not resist this beautiful outdoor space. But on this, my first evening visit to Muse, I was surprised to find that the dining room looked very different. At night, the lights are lowered and the room glows with candlelight. This softens the atmosphere of the space and makes for a most enticing dining experience.

Once seated, I ordered a bottle of Laforet Pinot Noir priced at $25. The menu offers soup du jour ($4), appetizers ($8-10), salads ($4-14), and entrees ($14-24). Our charming server, Susan, was knowledgeable about both the printed menu and the evening's specials, and she had a clear understanding of the preparation for each of the items we discussed with her.

My guest enjoyed the Gourmet Salad, a composed salad of mesclun greens, medjool dates, mandarin oranges, red onion, toasted walnuts, fig balsamic vinaigrette, and feta cheese ($7). This salad was an exotic mixture of flavors from many different cultures; combined they were perfectly balanced and rather exciting. I choose the Pear Chicken Salad ($9). Picture a bed of honey mustard-tossed field greens, with candied pecans, dried cranberries, crumbled Gorgonzola cheese and warm grilled chicken breast crowned with a haystack of julienne pears. This presented a magical flavor combination that could easily be a light meal all on its own.

We were greatly anticipating our entrees, so it was a pleasure for my guest to enjoy the Peppercorn and Garlic Rubbed Flat Iron Steak ($24). Served with roasted garlic mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus, and herbed maitre d’butter, the architecture of this plate was an amazing sight. A stack of comfort food with a playful contemporary twist--a base of mashed potatoes was used to support a platform of criss-crossed asparagus spears, which showcased the flat iron steak. Served perfectly rare, the steak was mouth watering and most satisfying.

I selected one of the evening specials for my entree: Crabmeat Stuffed Sole ($24). A pool of rich, creamy lobster risotto, covered by a blanket of garlic braised spinach was topped with a tidy package of sole, stuffed with crabmeat. This savory gift was garnished with perfectly steamed meat from a lobster’s claw. The completed masterpiece was finished with a drizzle of lemon beurre blanc. Elegant and sophisticated, this dish offered a bounty of flavors from the sea.

The portions are substantial; we left with appetites completely sated. We opted for espresso in lieu of dessert, which tuned out to be the perfect way to end our lovely meal. I must admit though, the evening's dessert offerings sounded tempting. The first was a chocolate cake with a layer of caramel; and the second a key lime tart. For those interested in enjoying dinner with the family during Gusto at the Gallery, Muse also offers a children’s menu which lists Finger Sandwiches ($5), Pasta Marinara ($6), and Buttered Pasta or Grilled Cheese ($5).

There are two important things to note about Muse. Though it's located in the gallery, you are not required to pay admission in order to dine at the restaurant. Also, it keeps similar hours to the gallery and is open for dinner only on Friday evenings. Please see their website for more information.


Muse
(located inside the Albright-Knox Art Gallery)
1285 Elmwood Avenue, Buffalo, 14222
716.270.8223