Buffalo Rising Online

Jul 17th 2007, 10:02am By Adam Fix

For over 30 years, Ristorante Lombardo has been satisfying Buffalonians in search of refined Italian cuisine. The business has seen the many phases of development along Hertel Avenue, and owner Tom Lombardo believes the current renaissance taking place on the street is the best yet.

“I think it's great,” Lombardo said of the wave of establishments which have opened their doors along Hertel over the past few years, “when we started there were more coffee shops than anything else.” Now that there is a diverse mixture of retail shops, cafes, and fine dining, Lombardo is beginning to see more foot traffic along the strip. “People walk from their homes in the neighborhood, but we also get people from Clarence and Williamsville that come down to walk around, shop, and eat.”

His business is upscale but varied, and caters to many types of clientèle. The food is fresh and innovative, the wine selection extensive and carefully monitored, and the (recently reconstructed) bar is fancy but cozy. The food and wine attract customers in search of one of the city's finest Italian meals, but the prices are reasonable enough to attract many young adults as well. Also of note is the large group of devoted regulars, who have been dining there since Ristorante Lombardo's inception.

On the hottest day of summer thus far, Tom Lombardo of Hertel Avenue's Ristorante Lombardo was kind enough to open his air-conditioned doors to Buffalo Rising, as we delved into the kitchen to get the scoop on one of Chef Christopher Salvati's favorite summer meals.

Salvati's “Handmade Gnocchi Sciue Sciue” can be replicated by BR readers quite easily. If you don't feel like preparing the gnocchi yourself by hand, as Salvati does, you can substitute store-bought pasta (of any type). In the time it takes to boil the gnocchi, the sauce can be prepared, resulting in an effortless gourmet meal in less than 10 minutes.

Salvati uses locally-grown tomatoes in his sauce, and some herbs grown in the restaurant's small backyard garden (although some must be bought, as it isn't large enough to meet demand), ensuring the freshness of the meal.

The dish has multiple layers of flavor which are individually tasty and complement each other expertly. The gnocchi and parmigiana reggiano constitute the dominant flavors, but are quickly followed by the sweetness of the tomatoes and basil. The finish has a slight garlic spice which is certainly mild enough for anyone's palate.

If you'd like to try Chef Salvati's version before you attempt it yourself, try it with a Fried Calamari appetizer ($11) and a glass of Blange (a light and fruity wine, great for the summertime; $7).

One of the real highlights of the restaurant is the patio, which is somewhat secluded due to the elevation of the restaurant and also the tall bushes which line its edges. From it, you can cast your gaze over Hertel while enjoying a superb meal under the night sky. Meticulous landscaping enhances the experience with flowers, patinaed sculptures and a small waterfall. The tables feature accents handmade in Italy; the Lombardos travel there every year and have new pieces crafted for the restaurant.

Inside, the new bar, flanked by wine coolers, is small but attractive. At first glance, it appears as if three large mirrors grace the back wall- but, the middle mirror is a flat screen TV, which caters to guests who don't want to miss a local sporting event while out to eat. When such an event isn't taking place, you wouldn't know the TV was there at all.

Ristorante Lombardo seems the perfect place for a romantic date or a night out with loved ones. Chef Christopher Salvati's innovative Italian cuisine is some of the best in the area. Both he and Mr. Lombardo are strongly committed to supporting local businesses by purchasing locally grown produce for their kitchen, so supporting their restaurant helps our economy in multiple areas. The next time you go out for an evening meal, consider a trip to Ristorante Lombardo's patio for some food, wine, and music under the stars.

Ristorante Lombardo
1198 Hertel Avenue, 14216
716.873.429, call for hours
www.ristorantelombardo.com