The following is a CAA article about Buffalo that was sent to us by a frequent correspondent. It's always good to have our opinion of Buffalo corroborated by people from outside the area. It's a good reminder to step back from the forest for a better view.
Winging it in Buffalo By Ann Mayer
While planning a recent cross-border trip to New York State, we kept hearing an odd but persistent rumour: There’s a lot more to Buffalo than suburban malls and “Tarjay” (a.k.a. the popular discount retailer Target). So we shuffled off to see for ourselves. We found magnificent architecture, rich history, lovely parks, a vibrant arts scene and, well, yes, some pretty great shopping, too. We also discovered that Buffalo has quietly and unobtrusively become a very cool town.
The Queen Elizabeth Way should get you from Toronto to Buffalo in under two hours, but if you have time, take the slower scenic route along the Niagara Parkway, starting at picturesque Niagara-on-the-Lake. Hugging the Niagara River, the road passes the Whirlpool Basin, Niagara River Gorge and the thundering Horseshoe Falls. It’s no wonder Winston Churchill called it “the prettiest Sunday afternoon drive in the world.”
Crossing the border at the Peace Bridge takes you right into downtown Buffalo, which is anchored by the soaring Art Deco City Hall. (“It’s so beautiful that you don’t even mind paying a parking ticket to see it,” says local Doug Sitler.)
Stroll through the theatre district to marvel at the majestic Shea’s Performing Arts Center, a national historic site built in 1926, where you can see a Broadway production for a fraction of the price you would in New York City or Toronto.
A great place to shop and explore is the Elmwood Village neighbourhood. Among the beautiful heritage homes, you’ll find dozens of eclectic boutiques and galleries. Elmwood is home to the world-class Albright-Knox Art Gallery, where you can view modern and contemporary masterpieces. Grab a quick gourmet sandwich or salad at Globe Market, or enjoy a leisurely meal at one of several hip restaurants along Elmwood Avenue.
Treasure hunters will want to check out the Allentown district, a colourful historic neighbourhood with eclectic coffee shops, art galleries and antiques stores. The Allentown Art Festival held each June is a big draw. You can catch a live music performance, literary reading or film screening at one of the city’s coolest new venues, Babeville. It’s a unique multi-arts space in a formerly abandoned church that was resurrected by musician and Buffalo gal Ani DiFranco. Home to DiFranco’s indie recording company, Righteous Babe Records, and Hallwalls Contemporary Arts Center, it has a concert hall, art gallery, screening room and a grotto-like bar.
Buffalo is blessed with an abundance of stunning architecture, including several buildings designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. A must-see is the Darwin D. Martin House Complex, where you can see Wright’s prairie-style buildings being lovingly restored to their original 1907 glory. The nearby parks system was planned by famed landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, designer of Manhattan’s Central Park. The Buffalo Zoo is also nearby, and it’s definitely worth a visit. Another restored wonder is the beautiful Victorian-era Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens, domed greenhouses situated in the Olmsted-designed South Park.
The towns surrounding Buffalo are equally rich in cultural history. The village of East Aurora is a 25-minute drive from downtown. Enjoy a meal at the village’s historic Roycroft Inn on the Roycroft Campus, an important community in the early-20th-century American Arts and Crafts movement. In the Copper Shop Gallery, you’ll find beautiful handcrafted pottery, art and furnishings for sale. Kids of all ages will enjoy the Toy Town Museum, located on the property of Fisher-Price’s world headquarters. And before leaving East Aurora, be sure to stop by Vidler’s 5 & 10, a sprawling old-fashioned general store that sells everything from the mundane to the arcane.
No trip to Buffalo is complete without a visit to the world-famous Anchor Bar, home of the original Buffalo-style chicken wings. We were told Canadians are partial to the “suicidal” wings, but we stopped at “medium.” We also tried (and recommend) the local specialty Beef on Weck. It’s all about the bun—encrusted with caraway and pretzel salt—a creation said to be unique to Buffalo.
There’s quite a lot that’s unique to Buffalo; savour a taste of it and you’ll be back for more.