Buffalonians love to eat outside. The moment the trees don their leaves and the days become longer, restaurants all over the city know that setting up their exterior seating area is a sure way to draw diners, regardless of any chill that may be left in the air. By early May, Prime 490 had set up its secluded and pristine covered patio, hidden from the street by a fence and foliage. Opening off the bar, it’s livelier than many patios where a fine meal can be enjoyed, yet remains intimate enough to be romantic.
On two occasions I chose to dine at Prime 490 during the week when I was able to choose from the standard selections or a prix fixe menu offering four courses for $35. The prix fixe menu, available only Tuesday through Thursday, features a diner’s selection of soup or salad, and a choice from each section of the concise menu; appetizer, entrée and dessert. The standard menu features six to eight offerings in each course. Appetizers include Buffalo favorites like crab cakes, calamari and stuffed banana peppers. Of all the dishes I tasted, the tuna sashimi appetizer was one of the best. Served elegantly with a small hill of sea salt and two sorbets, one whose flavor echoed pickled ginger and the other wasabi, it was a light and entertaining way to begin a meal. The plating of this dish was contemporary and playful. Also of note was a delicious shrimp bisque, so good we ordered two to go.
The salads are simple and include a Caesar and an iceberg wedge served with Maytag dressing- typical fare for any restaurant with an accent on beef. My guest enjoyed another salad, this one made of baby arugula, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, red onion and pumpkin seeds.
When it comes to main courses, beef reigns with a good selection of USDA Prime cuts including a filet mignon, a NY strip, a rib eye and an 8 oz. sirloin cut. Rock lobster tail is found here as well; on its own, or paired with a cut of beef. Any of these can be ordered with a seasoned butter—Prime 490’s own, a gorgonzola butter or a blend made with merlot—a nice alternative to the often overpowering seasoning used at steakhouses and chains. Perhaps the most interesting dish on the menu is the Deep Fried Sirloin; after being brushed with balsamic vinegar and cooked to temperature in a deep fryer, it emerges crispy on the exterior and tender inside. Served with a thick balsamic reduction and melted Maytag, it is a unique experience.
In the steakhouse tradition, Prime 490 also offers á la cart sides, the most popular of which is the Lobster Mac ‘n’ Cheese. With portions suited to serve 2-4 people, this area of the menu, though short, is a great way to sample a variety of dishes when with a group of people.
Prime 490 was born a steakhouse, but has since undergone changes that set it apart from that classic restaurant model. Bringing on Chef Leonard Mordino, a well-known Buffalo chef who once owned the very popular Hollywood Pastas, has been part of that evolution. Chef Mordino’s influence is apparent in the number of Italian choices now on the menu. Classics like Pasta ala Vodka, Barciole, Veal and Chicken cutlets served ala Parmigiana, Milanese or Marsala style stand alongside his namesake, Fettuccini ala Leonard, a pasta dish tossed with plum tomato, onion, basil, asiago, garlic, olive oil and white wine.
Other entrees options include an assortment of seafood selections like the very popular tuna coated in black and white sesame seeds, and a pan seared salmon dressed with an herb crust and served with a salad of arugula and baby potatoes.
The prix fixe menu features a nice selection of appetizers and entrees, and in my opinion, is the best way to introduce yourself to this restaurant, affording you ample opportunity to sample from Prime 490’s offerings. Consider pairing each of your courses with a selection from the solid list of wines available by the glass.
The service at Prime 490 is nothing but friendly and accommodating, making this expansive restaurant with a comfortable menu all the more approachable.
Prime 490
490 Rhode Island Street, Buffalo 14213
716.882.3328