I had never heard of Vargas before I started writing this column. I imagine I may have walked by it while out and about and not have given it a second glance. Had that been the case, I would have missed out on some very good, authentic Puerto Rican food. For those of you that feel Anthony Bourdain should come to Buffalo, I think this would be his kind of place. It lacks pretense and glitz; it is, quite simply, a good place for a quick and delicious meal.
The Saturday before Easter I stopped in for lunch. I was excited to try the octopus and plantains; this meal will only set you back $9, but it is sadly only available on Fridays. That's alright because now I have an excuse to return Friday during my lunch hour.
Vargas Take Out is not for the vegetarian, they specialize in meat-centric Puerto Rican street food. I sampled some of their famous pork (pernil), which came with roasted purple and white potatoes. The pork was juicy and abundant and the potatoes were lightly seasoned and cooked to perfection.
For $1.50 each I tried two types of fritas, which in this case refers to deep fried balls of mashed green plantains. The mofongo version featured pork and vegetables; the golden crust was a perfect accompaniment to the flavor and texture of the filling. The planos--which I could eat all day--were peppered with spices and ground beef. Though both were fried they weren't at all greasy. My entire meal set me back only $8.
Other traditional options at Vargas include soups, yellow or white rice with your choice of chicken, pork or seafood and, for those adventurous eaters, pig's ears with vegetables.
The staff and customers welcomed me like I was part of their family and genuinely wanted me to enjoy my meal. Vargas Take Out is a great place Downtown to stop for a unique lunch or a quick dinner after work.
Vargas
272 Hudson Street, 14201
716.881.6296
***Gourmet on a Shoestring is a regular YUM feature. Foodie Kate Sorice scours the eateries of Buffalo in search of tasty gourmet meals that cost no more than $10 per person including tax (but not tip). Do you have a favorite place to grab gourmet or especially delicious goodies on the cheap? Email us at YUM, your suggestion may be featured in an upcoming article.
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