Good, Stinky Cheese: Pecorino Pepato

Good, Stinky Cheese: Pecorino Pepato

In Italian, “pepato” simply means peppery. An Italian sheep's milk cheese, Pecorino Pepato is a classic pecorino speckled with whole black peppercorns. Pepato is salty and sharp and the bite of the occasional peppercorn only adds to its intensity.

Pepato is not a protected name, which means that any pecorino producer can add peppercorn to their cheese and call it Pepato. I suggest that you look for a piece that has some age, something firm that can be cut into paper thin slices, which is my favorite way to use pepato. Shaved into a salad with a good olive oil, over eggs, fava or white beans, asparagus, or cauliflower, Pepato is a real winner. It's also a nice addition to mashed potaotes or pasta.

A younger, softer Pepato is milder and less salty and therefore more suited to snacking, especially with olives or cured meats. Even in its milder state, it can easily overwhelm a varied cheese selection. If you're looking to pair it with a wine, consider amarone or chianti.

I purchased this slim wedge from the Lexington Co-op, a store that has really taken extra care with its cheese department. The inventory hovers around fifty different varieties, but their selections are well made and a great representation of popular cheeses.

Here's a recipe from Epicurious.com, the preparation requires roasting which is ideal for chilly weather and busy schedules. I've replaced the use of traditional pecorino with piquant Pecorino Pepato for a brighter and more interesting flavor profile.


Roasted Fennel and Carrots with Pecorino Pepato serves 8

4 fennel bulbs, cut horizontally,1/3” thick · 2 tsp fennel fronds, chopped· 2 large peeled carrots, cut diagonally,1/3” thick slices · 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme · 1/2 cup grated pepato cheese ·1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Preheat oven to 375°

Lightly oil 13x9x2-inch glass baking dish. Layer sliced fennel and carrots in dish, sprinkling layers with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with thyme, then cheese. Drizzle with oil. Bake until vegetables are tender and top is golden brown, about 1 1/4 hours. Sprinkle with fronds.


Lexington Co-op
807 Elmwood Avenue, 14222
716.886.2667



“Good, Stinky Cheese” is a regular column on YUM. If there’s a cheese that you’re particularly interested in, email us and let us know.