Then and Now: This thing was golden.
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Leave a commentWoke up to a gloomy day, then I saw these photos and I feel gloomier. How sad these diverse styles of architecture have been lost from the fabric of Main Street. I agree not much good came from the 80's in architecture or fashion unless your into shoulder pads and leg warmers.
Maybe its not retro enough to be chic or maybe it is, just as you said, "cartoonish". But I don't want to be so negative today. In retail we used to say, "we own it, we love it", meaning we had to try to sell even the things we didn't think were beautiful. It would be beautiful to someone.
With that said, those buildings are gone and this complex is here, complete, not needing renovation, asbestos abatement, stabilization or a clever idea of what it should be.
I ,for one, will embrace this area of Main street like an awkward teenager needing a hug. Hoping, as we all do sometimes, that as they grow older they will grow into their face. : )
This is a very nostalgic and simplistic view of history and architecture, right down to the memories of a bright eyed teenage STEEL exploring construction sites.
Its one thing to argue for a dense urban fabric without specifying the form that it should take, but its another to say that this fabric must always mimic obsolete building typologies.
Who said anything about mimicking anything?
and which building typologies are you calling obsolete?
It depends on the situation. If you have a company with a very strong idea about how you would like to organize you company's workspace (not unlike the Larkin Soap Company then or HSBC today) you may find a collection 2-4 story buildings in different styles and different states of disrepair to be insufficient or too limiting.
I'm for preservation most of the time, but I am against this older is always better mantra. Reuse is not always an appropriate solution. Something was demolished to create the buildings in these photographs. We just need to be a little more aware of how we romanticize the past on this site. I find that it helps to imagine how people 50 years in the future will romanticize our present.
More often than not removal is the choice so it is dishonest to claim that anyone is saying older is always better. The argument should be that older is often worth saving. Back when this building was being designed even mighty masterpieces such as the Guaranty Building were thretened. Its a good lesson to know what you removed and what you have. There area couple generations of people who know nothing about the vibrant and architecturally rich downtown Buffalo once had.
Goldome was an unneccessary liquidation in the S&L crisis. Both they and Empire had a real chance of survival but, by the time they reached a crisis point, the FDIC was liquidation crazy. The city may have been a different place and even more of a banking center today had that not happened.
If these buildings could have survived until 2000 then they'd probably be residential by now and would form the missing nexus for Buffalo's downtown residential development. It wasn't to be though and at least they aren't now a vacant lot.
Main st still has a ton of these buildings sitting vacant, so your assertion they'd be residential by now, is a little off base.
Does it. In this location and of this size? I don't think so but then I guess you knwo better about what is on and off base.
Judging by my 10 up votes looks like I am right.
Ah, the great American thumb-up/thumb-down standard of measure. A solid platform to stand on.
As I recall this was more "politics" than planning. Mayors Griffin and Masiello, abetted by the Greater Buffalo Development Corporation (now BNE), and the Redevelopment Authority usually got whatever they wanted, regardless of any opposition, or advice they may have received from their own (weak) Planning Department.
The Preservation Coalition, and individual architects spoke out against many of these demolitions. But their voices couldn't match the power of ignorant politicians and self-interested institutions.
The Fountain Plaza development is another example. Against the protests of citizens and the preservation community, the irreplaceable art deco WT Grant store was demolished to make way for the bland B of A building.
Looking at this from an outsiders perspective who has never known Main St outside of its current form, I agree that the loss of so many 'taxpayer' style storefronts for a large office building is unfortunate.
But in all honesty if they had stayed they would probably be in no better shape than the existing row of storefronts a block away which if I recall correctly are now under threat of demo due to structural issues owing to several years of inactivity/lack of maintenance.
Downtown cores of cities are usually not the best-preserved places in terms of historic buildings. "Progress" often comes at the expense of smalled plots of land like these.
Regarding this plaza and its counterpart across Main Street, many BR commentators lament the perceived dearth of activity at the street level. I disagree. There is plenty of pedestrian activity in the so called sterile block. Go there any lunch hour. Even in winter. In the summer, the activity isn't limited to lunch hour (nor so for the skating rink in winter).
By contrast, the 600 block (Chippewa to Edward) is mostly wonderfully preserved and restored. There are restaurants, stores and offices, live theaters, a movie theater, residential and even a 100 year old mall. The 600 block mostly looks great from the street. And yet at street level most days the 600 block is a pedestrian dead zone compared to this block. Even on weekends.
Yes, we lost some cool building shells sacrificed to the gods of 1980s and '90s office towers. But even today I'd still make this particular trade.
I agree. Maybe I'm a simpleton not understanding the nuances of certain design features over others... but how much user friendly do you get than an open air ice rink?
Sorry, but most of Main Street feels like a set for a walking dead or nuclear holocaust movie most of the time, especially after 5:00 PM, on weekends, and in the winter. I cringe whenever I eavesdrop on visitors' conversations and overhear them making similar comparisons. When we spend too much time around town, we see it very up close and mostly just the way we want to see it. It's brutal to overhear how outsiders often see it. Now let the thumbs-down votes begin.
The impression would certainly be no better had we retained those shells instead of building the new towers. In fact, it would be far worse.
i am not sure that those were the only possible choices.
"The city had little to no culture of urbanism". It may not be the author's intent, but I find that statement a little offensive. It may be or apt to say: The city had little to no contrived culture of urbanism. There is no doubt that this city was decaying, and dying slow death at that time. But, real people still lived and worked here at that time, in numbers that dwarf today's.
Mom never drove. What she couldn't find in our Ken/Bailey neighborhood required a ride to the suburbs or a bus ride downtown. Being an independent sort, the bus ride was usually first choice. She took me to Christmas concerts with the Philharmonic in the BSB lobby. Grandpa walked over from his Delaware Ave. office to meet us. Grandpa, my uncles, and older cousins, many worked downtown. They shopped and ate there too. The men liked Kleinhan's. The more refined women like Berger's. Mom opted for the bargain basement at AM&As as often as not! As I got a little older I shopped downtown too. Cavage's, Ulrich's, Tent City, George & Co., Olson's Electronics, all stops along the road of wish fulfillment for a teenage geek.
I remember what ended it all too. The train. More specifically, the construction period. Construction of the cut & cover and surface sections of the MetroRail blocked up Main street for years. Bus trips downtown for shopping or work became near unbearable and sometimes dangerous. Mom simply stopped going. Others like her followed suit. I've even heard that the number of workers driving (rather than using public transit) to work downtown,actually increased in those years. By the time light rail construction was finished, the slow steady decay of our city, had accelerated into a full on plummet into the abyss.
I grew up around folks doing restoration work on Buffalo's homes and commercial buildings small and large. I loved all those old worn out buildings downtown. They helped fuel my childhood dream of being an architect. All the new, shiny, glass faced ones probably helped to kill that dream too. But, before you start talking about a "culture of urbanism" or the correct density for urban planning, please remember: it was the urban planners that built the metro rail. It was the urban planners that built the Kensington expressway (my family lost their house to that one). It was the urban planners that bulldozed large swaths of most cities in the country in the name of "renewal". Meanwhile, everyday people, living their lives and doing their best, day in and day out, usually asking for nothing, got screwed time and time again by one big, planned, government project after another.
Urban designers don't necessarily design for supporting a culture of urbanism. When these buildings were being demolished there was also an ongoing mass exodus from the city to the suburbs. Industries were shutting down and retail was quickly disappearing downtown. Even neighborhoods like Parkside and Elmwood were threatened with decay and decline. While Metro Rail construction was certainly harmful to downtown's weakening retail economy that was not the reason for its death. The death of retail in Buffalo was part of a national trend away from downtown retail in smaller and mid size cities. Local retail chains were bought up or went out of business meaning there was no local commitment to downtown. Add in the massive new Galleria just a few miles away and you get what is downtown now.
Very well said.
As you make clear, this part of the article offers a narrow understanding of what urban life was like in Buffalo in the 70s:
"The city had little to no culture of urbanism, and the development community had pretty much abandoned the city unless they were led by the nose from City Hall with huge incentives."
No, there was not a lot of official "development" or self-conscious "urbanism" in downtown Buffalo (or most other northern cities in the 70s; NYC was shabby and filthy), but that is only one barometer of "urbanism." Far from "grim," urban Buffalo was a place people came from around the world to sup on the cultural banquet that the city spread out then. There were people everywhere, there was meaning everywhere, and the decay was actually much on people's minds. Poor leadership hastened the decay, yes, but for history's sake we should not describe the urban canvas of people living and working downtown at that time as "grim." The only people back then who said that were the people you hear it from today: suburban reactionaries and missionary planners.
I think Steel meant that city government didn't have a culture of urbanism. The zoning code and city planning initiatives encouraged either car-oriented development patterns or downtown superblocks, with very little attention to traditional urban form.
It has become marginally better since then, and we do have a few notable developers and architects who are leading by example.
I agree with much of this, but I don't agree that "the train" ruined downtown Buffalo. Plenty of cities around the same time suffered surface train construction (Portland, Denver) and cut and cover train construction (NY Sixth Avenue) and the cities were not ruined.
What ruined downtown was suburban sprawl. Same mall/sprawl throughout the nation that ruined downtowns most everywhere; even those downtowns without train construction.
But most people don't want to accept the destruction of cities caused by sprawl. They would rather blame the city's demise on the city.
If I suggested that the Metro Rail alone was responsible for the demise of downtown, I didn't mean to. However, I do believe that the rail construction period accelerated the decline to a point that it was essentially non recoverable. And at what cost? A quick google didn't provide me with the actual construction cost. But, I remember it as being astronomical. I also recall that it put the NFTA in the red and I don't believe they've been in the black since. I believe the whole project did more harm than good overall. If someone would like to provide the real numbers I'd be grateful.
I'm also among those who decry flight to the suburbs. I am the last of my immediate family to remain in the city. A few younger cousins have returned. They have white collar jobs and live in prosperous neighborhoods. The rest are in the 'burbs or have fled the state entirely.
Construction costs were reported to be about $650,000,000 , but actually ran over $750,000,000 - the most expensive "light rail" subway ever built, anywhere. That's after the NFTA brought transit experts from Europe, who all advised: DO NOT BUILD A SUBWAY. They were quietly dismissed.
The train accelerated decline and made it worse.
My real beef with that fiasco today is that the stations a butt-ugly and very dated looking, and the enormous maintenence costs that could be used elsewhere.
Love this story -- so glad you shared it! But you said that while the pedestrian mall was being built a transit trip downtown could be "dangerous." How so--?
While I tend to agree with Dan Sack that MetroRail can't be singled out as OMG THE TRAIN THAT ATE MY CITY!!! (as others often portray it), I can certainly see that some people who never had developed the postwar habit of driving everywhere and heading out of the city to suburban shopping, and instead followed the earlier paradigm that a shopping trip meant heading downtown, could have had a change of habit during the construction of MetroRail. And then simply never went back.
And also, that some marginally performing stores that perhaps weren't making enough anymore to keep up their buildings or balance the books might have been pushed over the edge by the construction project. In Rochester, an extensive, multi-year Main Street rebuild downtown at a slightly later time caused enough disruption to shut down some shops that had been barely holding on in post-downtown-shopping era.
In at least one case, the owner of a fine menswear shop -- the kind of place you could run into & get a replacement tie if you spilled soup on yours during lunch -- had held on in part (I suspect) because of a stubbornness to let go of the earlier era. Also, probably in part because he was friends with the longtime downtown lawyers and enjoyed being their haberdashery. But the issues with the Main Street construction, the disruptions, the lack of communication, etc. not only affected his foot traffic but made him really, really mad. I think that anger at City Hall basically gave him the excuse and the prod to finally close. And this was even before business-casual began impacting men's clothing!
So to make a too-long story short, while I don't agree with the sentiment that MetroRail "killed" downtown, I can certainly see how things that people observed themselves at the time would lead them to that conclusion.
Again thanks for sharing this great story.
Also, for how great and stimulating build environment is supposed to be there's only four people in all of those pictures combined.
So once again it comes down to architectural design and design codes.
The stewards of this city need to make world class architecture for both modern and period buildings a priority.
Maybe its a 10 year tax credit for an world class architectural period reconstruction or new design.
Maybe its zoning.
On a side note, what really makes late 70's and early 80's pictures look bad are the cars. I'm not sure if it was just a low point in style or if they had real bad paint during that era, but every time I see an image whether it's in Buffalo or Florida the cars look like they've been through war.
I feel the same way. I'm also beginning to think the only time people were allowed to take photos of Buffalo during the 70's-80's was in March when all the snow was filthy and black.
Nice pictures, but PLEASE stop lamenting- time to move on Buffalo! Look to the promising future.
Save what you have left and capture images of things that might not even be here six months from now unless you act. Think Trico, Sycamore, Broadway and other surrounding streets still suffering from neglect and sitting empty.
React to the past by positively moving into the future.
This is a story about the present.
At least the architect knew how to specify reflective glass! Anyone know the whole story of the non-reflective reflective glass on the Federal Courthouse? What a disaster! I worked with some people inside the building recently who said the building was a total unneeded waste of money.
At least the architect knew how to specify reflective glass! Anyone know the whole story of the non-reflective reflective glass on the Federal Courthouse? What a disaster! I worked with some people inside the building recently who said the building was a total unneeded waste of money.
The Goldome buiding was designed by Kohn, Pederson and Fox, at the time one of the leading architectural firms in the US. When built, I found it quite amazing and fantastic. It's now in mid-life, the most dangerous period for any building. we have to wait another three decades at least before we can make any sound judgements on its worth.
Should we have kept the old buildings? Perhaps. Could the design have been better? Perhaps. But we have what we have, and I say we must make the most of it. It's not bad design by any means, but I agree that the plaza could be better utlilized.
As always, we should look to William Whyte's comments on how to make a city plaza lively.
Trivia:
The Goldome tower was built with a sweep of glass facing Main and a blank wall facing the East Side. Know why?
It was designed to be doubled. The expectation (prior to the Feds shutting down the bank) was that the bank's growth would continue and the office space would need expansion. The glass wrap around facade facing Main was intended to eventually be mirrored on the back of the building as well, as office space was added to accommodate the growth.
I've heard the same thing -- you beat me to it!
Interesting. So basically where that parking lot is was supposed to be a reflection of what is on Main? What about the building at the Genesee Washington intersection? Was that added later?
Something that kept coming to mind reading this is that I was told by a preservation person that the adaptive reuse of the Buffalo Savings Bank in the Goldome Plaza project represents some kind of world-class preservation success story (because of the specifics of the adaptive reuse). But when I see the buildings that were taken down for the project, I don't find myself cheering.
I'm curious whether anyone else has heard something like what I heard about the Goldome project. If it's a bogus idea, I'd be glad to divest myself of it!
Part of it may be that the north side of the original Buffalo Savings Bank didn't exist. It was always adjacent to the other buildings. When they tore them down to create the plaza, they of course didn't want just a blank wall, so they added all the trimmings to make it look just like the original facades on Main St.
Recreating all that stonework could not have been cheap or easy. Perhaps that is what they were referring to.
Does anyone know if 61 Johnson Park is for sale? I'd like to purchase is.
61 Johnson Park: under contract, tentatively, but not closed. email me for info. r.binisz@gmail.com
There's a message in your inbox.
For sale by owner? Didn't find a listing.
There is a good plan for 61 Johnson Park that is a terrible plan for Tracy Street; parking lot for 61 Johnson Park between 2 homes on Tracy. Planning Board loved the plan, no care about the impact on Tracy residents! Preservation Board will no doubt veto the plan as they have before.
Now, come on: It's hardly a terrible thing for Tracy Street. What is going to be parking faces the blank wall of a school. And part of it is hidden behind an existing garage. And it will also provide some neighborhood parking (several houses on Tracy don't have their own; residents might find it an attractive convenience).
Besides, the buyer just completely redid two homes and a bigger building on Tracy. So I doubt they see this as at all harming Tracy.
Who's the seller?
oh, and re: 'preservation will veto plan as they have before'???? Pray tell, when did they ever do such a thing? I got it approved for parking years ago, too. They never vetoed it at all. (I just never had the funds to fully develop.)
So let's make it worse for Tracy Street and have a parking lot in a residential block. After a house burned down on my street several years ago some residents suggested a parking lot. Didn't get much support, didn't happen.
again, I don't see this as harmful at all to Tracy Street. I think it benefits the residents and owners on the street.
And again, the developer is already heavily invested already in Tracy Street. If they saw this as harmful to their investments already on the street, they'd doubtless arrive at a different plan.
I appreciate the work on Tracy by the developer and your keeping 61 from falling apart. I can also understand that some Tracy residents may like to rent parking spaces. I simply don't think it a good plan along a residential street to have a parking lot. Looks to me that there is room at 61 for enough cars for future tenants. This is a neighborhood changing for the better. The lots on Tracy are already, or soon will be, valuable enough for someone to build a new home there.
I agree. Parking is a short term solution. There should be an innovative way to accommodate parking here that does not suck the future value out of this street.
I'll show you my own drawing of what I ultimately desired to build there, which was a carriage house, through which one would drive to get to the parking lot, so that from Tracy the parking would be hidden completely. But that was pretty much a pie in the sky eventual solution.
Aren't you guys neighbors? Don't you live right behind eachother? Why not grab a coffee at Taza or Betty's and work it out.
Let's not forget that construction of these two banks (Goldome and Key) were the catalyst for Chippewa to transform. Prior to these two office towers, Chippewa was the red light district. Downtown here was very seedy.
My aunt relocated with National Gypsum to Charlotte NC back in the 70s. When she came home one year and saw those two complexes and the hotel at the corner of Main and Chippewa, she couldn't believe it. When she went home to Charlotte, she told all her Buffalo friends. All were flabbergasted. Chippewa's reputation was so bad no one could believe there was actually a new hotel on Chippewa Street of all places. It shocked them (But then, again, National Gypsum's headquarters were on Delaware between Chippewa and Tupper. These people knew Chippewa).
My friends and I graduated high school way back in 1978. The drinking age was 18. I remember coming down to Chippewa to look at the hookers as a high school senior. We were a carload of white kids from Cheektowaga. If you kept your windows were open, the girls would walk up to the car at a stop light, start a conversation, reach in and tease a little . . . try to make a sale, then we'd skedaddle after the daring escapade of actually having conversed with a real life prostitute . . . And they were all over. Tens of girls within a couple blocks, not one or two.
Anyway, Chippewa's reputation was bad. Everybody knew it was the red light district and had been for a long time. Mark Goldman deserves a ton of credit for pioneering the Calumet. But the Calumet (and the 600 block of Main) could never have taken off without those two silver bullets (Key and Goldome). And even though the second Key Tower stood a vacant shell for a decade, those two bullets did work for downtown. They really expanded the frontier.
Wow, quite a story.
I hadn't heard that the second Key tower was vacant for a decade. Again, wow.
Separate but related: I wonder why Delaware North is so eager to pull out of the Key Center--?
Now, Chippewa is a bunch of bars empty during the day and full of drunks at night - with more people being attacked, stabbed, or shot each year than in the "bad" era. This is not an improvement.
if you don't think Chippewa today is worlds better than forty years ago, you didn't know Chippewa then.
Re: Main Street feeling like a “walking dead or nuclear holocaust movie” especially after 5 p.m. or on weekends.
Recently, a commenter provided often overlooked insight on the scarcity of people on Main Street after 5 p.m.
Downtown Main Street and nearby streets significantly consist of businesses/offices which are open Monday through Friday (and essentially 9 am to 5 pm). A cursory look at the "33" and exit streets from downtown around 5 pm shows that most office workers don't linger. They are in a hurry to get home.
Office spans, even in larger cities, are not booming with life after office hours or on weekends. That includes Toronto.
I remember that stretch north of Goldome back in the '70s and it was very seedy and getting worse. most of the retail traffic was further south where people parked near AM&A's to go shop. The theater district was also fairly seedy, especially the area around the old Greyhound bus terminal. I'll always remember all the trash on the sidewalks and the creepy types loitering there. The buildings were still colorful and provided a diverse, interesting streetwall. Had they been saved who knows what lurked behind those 1940s and '50s retrofits?
I actually admired KPF's Goldome Bank Building at the time. It has a taller cousin in Denver (Tabor Center. But there's no denying the sterilizing effect it's had, along with the Key Center Towers and the dull as dishwater First Niagara Building. Maybe those complexes could someday be reworked into something more inviting at the street level but what's done is done.
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Just about every high rise downtown (M&T Tower, M&T/Golddome, HSBC Tower, Main Place Tower, Key Towers (Pearl St and Chippewa sides)offer little appeal on street level. Missed opportunities to build good urban density and pedestrian fiendly streetscapes for sure. Tishman Building was a better effort. You wonder how professional planners and architects could have been so clueless
"You wonder how professional planners and architects could have been so clueless"
Groupthink.
Great point, I was just feeling the same way....all of the pictures of old show great street level windows and signage, representing something that all of the new buildings lack....I dont understand why we would have street level appeal on all buildings...If it isnt just grand windows with faux showcases, or lighting...something to me it look like we are in Business at all hours and not deadzones...
To see the full series of these pics - more will be added soon - follow this link. http://www.flickr.com/photos/fixbuffalo/sets/72157631571909013/