food June 6, 2011 2:29 PM

Bringing up bambino.

Bringing up bambino.
When first walking in to Bambino Bar and Kitchen, you might think you are dressed too casually. But upon sitting down for a drink and getting comfortable, you realize that the place is fairly casual; it just has a classy attitude.

Bambino Bar and Kitchen (see background), located on Franklin Street where Duo used to call home, offers a fantastic night out for anyone who wants to hang downtown. It's perfect for a date or a family night out.

Owner Noel Morreale, who also owns Fiamma restaurant on Hertel, wanted to create a "simple and approachable" feel for Bambino. "This is my favorite restaurant," he says, "and I own another restaurant."

Before you decide what you are going to order, you can sit down at the bar for a cold drink. The focus at the bar is on regional craft draught beers and Italian wines and liquors - you can also get a PBR tallboy if that's more your style. While you sip your drink you might notice the communal tables, where three couples that don't know each other can sit down for dinner and end up in conversation. Noel believes this encourages people to sample other people's dishes, and get a taste for the whole menu. He says people aren't afraid to sit with strangers anymore and he's seen plenty of business cards being exchanged. 

You can eat at the bar, the communal tables, upstairs, or the patio. To me the place feels like you are in a nicely decorated house, with family pictures adorning the walls.  Noel decided to add some Mason jar chandeliers because the jars remind him of his grandmother's stockpile of food filled jars she used to keep.

When Queenseyes and I visited on a Tuesday evening the place wasn't too busy, and some pop music was playing in the dining room. On the weekends, DJ 2 Percent spins live on the patio and draws in the younger party crowd. If you aren't feeling the beats, you can still opt for a quiet meal inside.

For starters (which was about as far as I got) Queenseyes and I got the Warm Crab dip and the Eggplant Caponata. I was a fan of the warm crab; it was similar to spinach dip, but lighter and creamier, with small chunks of crab and hot bread (right out of the wood fired oven) for dipping. Queenseyes said the Eggplant Caponata was one of the best caponatas he had ever had - right on par with Sinatra's caponatina. Bambino caponata is a mixture of chopped eggplant, tomatoes, olives and a few other fresh ingredients tossed in to make it perfect. Noel says that since he offers such a unique selection of "Tavern Snacks" such as the caponata to dip bread in, he vehemently refuses to serve butter. The other appetizers include Roasted Bone Marrow (yep) Mortabella Mousse, Mixed Olives, Hummus, and Giardiniera.

Bambino-food-Buffalo-NY.jpg
^Click to enlarge

We were surprised to learn that many of the dishes on the menu are cooked in the wood fired oven. The oven reminded me of something that would be used in someone's home or tavern two hundred years ago. Jason Turner, a Bambino chef, says the oven is ready when it is about 725 degrees, and takes about five hours to get to that temperature. He jested that I could stick my hand in there if I wanted to see if it was hot, but I believed him just fine.

Queenseyes and I watched our Warm Crab dish cooking in the oven next to two small pizzas, which have been a big hit according to the staff. On a previous visit, he had tried the Wild Mushroom pizza with truffled arugula and shaved parmesan exclaiming that, "With the addition of hot peppers and mozzarella, the personal pizza was delectable, with more than a hint of truffles, a nice crisp crust to hold on to and probably the only thing that could succeed in getting my mind off of the caponata." Bambino chicken wings are also cooked in the fire oven and flavored with lemon pepper, making them different than the usual wing you get from a pizza place. They aren't crispy since they are not fried. I believe this would be a healthy alternative to the usual crispy wings drenched in hot sauce.

Wood-fire-bambino-Buffalo.jpg 
^Click to enlarge

After enjoying some "Tavern Snacks" at least one more dish had to be tested. The Macaroni and Peas dish is something like a soup, with diced elbow macaroni and fresh peas in a bit of broth. I thought it was a little spicy, but Queenseyes said it had just the right kick - eccellente! I was hoping to have tiramisu (my favorite) for dessert, but I was too full to eat anything else. I would like to go back just to try some of the Italian dessert dishes or dessert wines on the menu I have never heard of.

Bambino has a pretty good selection of eats to choose from. There are seven genres of dishes, those being Small Plates, Soup and Salad, Oven Fired Pizza (with nine varieties) Tavern Snacks, Signature Sandwiches, Macaroni, and Specialties. According to waiter Fred Dendrick, the three sandwiches have been a big hit. If you are looking for something vegetarian though, the sandwiches are not the way to go. Bambino does offer a few solid choices for those that don't eat meat - hopefully as the restaurant develops it can begin to include even more vegetarian items.

Bone-Marrow-Buffalo-NY.jpgAnother thing I must mention about the restaurant is the Roasted Bone Marrow (photo). I had never heard of such a dish and am hesitant to give it a try. A veil bone is roasted until the marrow inside is cooked, and then it is served with bread and a cocktail fork. You use the fork to scoop out the marrow and spread it on bread. Not something you see everyday! I don't imagine myself being adventurous enough to try that, but it certainly sounds interesting. Due to the rave review of the bone marrow, Noel plans on bringing back a dish his grandmother used to make: Honeycomb Tripe.

Overall Bambino is a great place for a date, a night out with friends, or a family outing. The food is reasonably priced but you might not guess it because the food presentation is top notch. The waiters are knowledgeable about each dish and wine, and the whole staff is very friendly. The only downside that we found to this restaurant was the pop music (not our favorite), and although there are some vegetarian accommodations (us vegetarians are very picky, I know!), meat lovers rule the roost at Bambino. At this point there's plenty for everyone to enjoy - and you can always tell that the food and wine is good when you start to see others from the restaurant industry pulling up to the bar!

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Comments

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I had to stop reading at PBR tallboy.

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It sounded so good that you swooned with joy and you're just now coming too in haze of euphoric delight?

replied to UnionAMG
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Nothing wrong with a PBR. It's as American as apple pie. Anyone know where the Blue Ribbon came from? Says it right on the can/bottle.

replied to UnionAMG
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This sounds fantastic.

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I just ate here last week. The place is really nice and the pizza was great! It's nice to have a wood fired pizza in the city finally. I'd go back anytime!

On a side note, I also ate at Blue Monk again this weekend, not as impressed. They charged $14 for a small bowl of mac & cheese that was greasy and bland.

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Because the Irish are known for flavorful foods.

replied to brownteeth
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Irish??? The Blue Monk is modeled after a Belgian Bar.

replied to EllicottNick
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[Deleted- flaming]

replied to r-k-tekt
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I had no idea you were "flaming."

replied to EllicottNick
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the mac and cheese is the only thing I wouldn't recommend at Blue Monk. Everything else is excellent.

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I really enjoy Fiamma so I'm hoping this place has great grub as well....The new North End on Hertel sells wood fired pizza as well.....

As for the BM -- Great beers, albeit a bit on the pricey side but it's nice to have a higher end pub with higher end food and drink

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My mom works nearby and has already been a few times. She's really enjoyed it...but I just can't get over the name. Is it too late to change it?

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I was very intrigued by the bone marrow...

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Just ate here today for lunch. I'm not a fan of the name either, but the place is great. The food was great, prices fine, and the atmosphere and service were fantastic. Lunch with a couple of beers and a shared pizza for my wife and I was $35.

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This place looks promising - and I doubt the food will be a concern. Were I the proprietor I would be pissed that you featured two tall cans on Pabst with this story. Sends a signal to the faux hip crowd that they have a new place to call theirs. Or maybe that was the idea. As for the Blue MOnk comment - I must have been there on an off day - my Mac and Cheese had a very pungent bacon (this chunks) and smoke flavor - and lasted three days as leftovers...

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as long as it doesn't attract the crowds that Jersey Encore does, it should be fine.

replied to bydesign
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Don't get thrown by PBR tallboys, this is a pretty typical retro trend in "hip" joints in bigger metros. The food is excellent here and if I had to predict...these guys will be here and be busy for quite some time. Soho is going to be cool too and Cantina Loco on Allen as well. Attention all restaurant operators...get your s__t together asap your you will be looking at empty seats.

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Another restaurant with a just a dj? Must be cheaper than live music.

Just gets you in the bone marrow.

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Unfortunately, I had a very negative experience at Fiamma that was totally management-related, nothing to do with the food. That makes me hesitant to try a restaurant run by the same people.

Also, to be perfectly frank, a chef who "refuses to serve" anything (butter or otherwise) has lost sight of the fact that the customer comes first, not the chef. I'd like to think that the dipping options would distract me from the butter, but to be honest, sometimes I'm just really in a salty-butter on hot bread kind of mood. Not being able to have that because of the chef's attitude would definitely make for a bad experience.

It's too bad, some of the food does sound nice, and I'm glad someone's brave enough to do marrow bones.

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Honestly, if you want a "customer comes first" type of experience, Applebees or TGIFridays might be able to accomodate you.

Places like this (Bambino, Fiamma, Rue Franklin, etc.) have equisitely trained chefs whose food ideas come from years of experience. If the chef doesn't serve this with that, its the way he designed his dish to be.

Are you going to tell Jackson Pollock to not splatter so much? Or Frank Lloyd Wright that his corners are too sharp?

I've never had a bad meal in Noel Morreale's restaurants -- period.

replied to venusleeloo
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It's not like he was asking for ketchup to put on a filet... give the man some butter for his bread!

replied to Johnny LoVecchio
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What's wrong with ketchup on filet? Throw soome cheese on it and put it on a hard roll, bro.

replied to UnionAMG
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Hi Johnny. I'm originally from San Francisco. I've eaten at French Laundry and many other fantastic restaurants with outstanding chefs and wait staff. I've also eaten at Rue Franklin (love it!) where they took excellent care of me and I never doubted that I could get anything I wanted if I just asked politely. By and large, I've really enjoyed eating out at Buffalo's finer establishments.

The common thread running through all of the best places I've eaten is that a chef convinces me to eat what s/he wants by serving excellent food, not by making proclamations about what won't be served. Actual food, not attitude, is at the heart of a wonderful restaurant.

And while Applebees or TGIFridays aren't places I frequent on a regular basis, I'm not too proud to eat there sometimes and appreciate the work that the people in the kitchen (and the wait staff) are doing to make it a good experience.

replied to Johnny LoVecchio
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love the PBR...do they have a bike rack?

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You bet they do Peanut! I locked my Vespa up there just last week. How was the parade on Sunday?

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Maybe they don't have butter in the joint, but if they do they should probably just serve upon request. Having said that there is really nothing more annoying than customers that think "the customer is always right".

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this place is delicious. went on one of the first opening nights. congrats noel for bringing a hip new place back to franklin. i am excited to check out the patio now that the weather is nice

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the parade was just like the sundaes they serve at this place.... HUGE

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Anything is better than Duo.

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The pizza looks fantastic!

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I just ate here, and was really disappointed with the food and service. I'm hoping I was there on an off day, but so many things were bad. Slow service, frozen bread, cold caponata, and bland pizza. Sounds like other people have had better experiences them me, so I'm hoping that this was just a really off day.

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I ate here last night and my girlfriend and I had an awesome meal -- really. And the service was great, too.

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