Real Estate November 19, 2010 5:30 AM

Road Trip: Portland's Pearl District

Road Trip: Portland’s Pearl District
The Pearl, a northwest Portland gem, used to be an area of old warehouses and lots filled with weeds and litter.  It was not a place people would want to live or even visit.  Today, the Pearl District is Portland's art district and a coveted residential location, an award-winning leader in urban renewal.

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While many other cities were paving over or bulldozing places that were no longer profitable, Portland was creating the model for downtown neighborhoods throughout North America. During the last twenty years, this community adjacent to downtown Portland has been transformed.  What had been an industrial warehouse district has become a vibrant place to shop, eat, work, and live.  Many of the warehouse buildings that give the Pearl its architectural identity have been creatively restored. New developments have been designed to be faithful to the district's industrial roots.  The result is one of the most dynamic and appealing neighborhoods in the nation.  It is an example that proves there can still be life in a previously neglected part of town.  In 2007, CNN named it one of the best places in America to retire.

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The Pearl is hip and trendy- from the small specialty shops, pricey art galleries, international-style restaurants and major retailers, to the high-end condos, lofts and townhomes. But Pearl is not just a place filled with big, pricey condominiums.  There are new and older buildings containing lower-income apartments.  It is home to national stores such as REI and Whole Foods but there are plenty of little storefronts containing small businesses and eateries.  Running though the Pearl District are sleek, European-styled streetcars that stop every couple of blocks, every 10 minutes or so.  That this strong, rich, diverse district did not exist 20 years ago is a testament to the sustained and coordinated commitment by both the public, the city and enlightened developers.

To transform the area from an underused warehouse district, the city provided infrastructure- some $150 million worth- notably the streetcar line and parks.  It rapidly transformed from industrial/commercial into a residential/commercial area as old warehouses were converted and chic new residential properties, condos/lofts and townhouses were built.  The neighborhood has been the hottest real estate market in Portland until the national recession hit that left the city with a glut of unsold condos.  Despite the halt in new construction, there are plans for hundreds of additional residential units as the neighborhood expands to the north towards the Fremont Bridge. 
 
One force behind the Pearl's success is the Portland Design Commission, which oversees a set of guidelines intended to give the area a consistent architectural identity.  There are a variety of buildings but there is a sense of context.  The buildings work together and have a cohesive personality.  Competition among developers pushed them to create buildings that are architecturally more interesting than the norm.  But what makes the district unique is its downtown setting and the adaptive reuse of the existing structures.  
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The pedestrian-friendly nature of the streets and neighborhood are a big draw.  One of the attractive features of the neighborhood are the open spaces.  The Pearl's parks are a neighborhood amenity and community gathering spots.  Developers love them also as residences fronting the parks command a premium.  

The Pearl is maturing too.  Up through the 1990's the area still had railroad tracks that serviced the many warehouses and manufacturers in the neighborhood.  They have now been paved over for streets removing some of the neighborhood's industrial flair.  

Rediscovered neighborhoods have taken advantage of their rich history, adaptively reusing their stock of historic properties and inserting a new urbanity, to become regional destinations.  Several Buffalo neighborhoods- the Larkin District, First Ward, and Cobblestone to name a few- have the bones to become great neighborhoods.  All is needed is the vision to hold onto the structures worth keeping and a hefty dose of job and population growth.

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Can anyone say Larkin District?

Score: 1 ( 7 votes ) Vote up Vote down Report this comment

I always pictured Larkin as an Urban office park with mixed with office space and light industrial.

This place sounds more like allentown and the elmwood village.

There is sure a lot of density in those portland pictures... One of these days I gotta get out there and see it for myself!

replied to Travelrrr
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With pricey gallery's, high end condo's and a Whole Foods Allentown and Elmwood is nothing like this. I wish it were but with our Wilson Farms and Price Rite with a few wanna be Art Gallery's and a plethora of section 8 tossed in we have a long ways to go.

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Wish our focus was on the street cars. What a great way to connect the inner harbor with the outer harbor....and beyond. Instead we are thinking parking garages for the old aud site.

BRING BACK THE STREET CARS!!!!

Score: 2 ( 10 votes ) Vote up Vote down Report this comment

Been there and read a lot of about in relation to gentrification and displacement. Sadly, as nice as this is, it's basically a textbook case of neoliberal, subsidy-based gentrification that displaced artists and others who occupied the lofts and spaces before multi-millionaires were given major subsidies to displace existing residents with "higher and better use" residents, just moving current residents to other areas of the city.

But Portland has what Buffalo doesn't and won't for a long, long, long time.... population growth, which in turn results in housing pressure, which in turn makes developers seek out places to provide housing. Without pressure for housing in the city the market can't be expected to step into any area and provide investment, which there isn't, there's only speculative pressure from the likes of Rocco Termini who are willing to gamble on projects with taxpayers subsidies, which turn the risk away from him and onto the public).

The premise of MAJOR urban revitalization in every city ever spotlighted on BRO, not this micro-scale renewal like EV or other places in rust belt that are, is basically akin to, as Berry said "islands of renewal in seas of decay."

One striking thing about Portland... when you walk downtown, all you see are younger professionals and students. The place is a very young city in terms of demographics.

The problem with discussions about places like Portland and other well-off urban locations is that they're a dream for Buffalo. So long as there are structural problems and machine politics in Buffalo, true, full-blown renewal is impossible. As long as mayor Brown and everyone that follows him continues to run the city like his own personal sweatshop and employment centered for friends, family and contributors, the only way true change can happen, at a very small scale, is by grassroots and smalltime investment. Think of how EV had to do everything basically on its own while the city ignored it. Large investors and developers don't want that risk and obstacle, they want a set of rules and standards that are enforced and followed the same, everytime, all the time. An no, a new code changes nothing within city hall as far as how development is administered. Let's not confuse law and administration. A new code provides a legal framework for how devlopment proceeds on the ground, it doesn't ensure proper administration of the code. Only the administration ensures that. So long as the mayor continues to waste his time on petty things like trying to get "his guy" elected into the fire department union director job, you'll continue to be a rudderless ship. Residents and the private sector can make some small changes, but true change requires a partnership with the government and that's not happening any time soon.

Score: 10 ( 16 votes ) Vote up Vote down Report this comment

I want to try to refute you but, alas, I think you are spot on; I am just not sure how truly effective zoning laws will be in the absence of solid leadership in Buffalo. We really need our Bloomberg.

replied to buffalofalling
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ugh, portland. I left my heart there this summer. everything buffalo should be.

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ugh, portland. I left my heart there this summer. everything buffalo should be.

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Ya know I look at some of these newer buildings in the article and slide show and wonder how long it would be before someone here said; it was "Inappropriate" or didn't "fit into architectural guidelines".

This definately seems like a healthy mix of new and old, something I feel our local preservationists wouldn't be able to get by.

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Considering that Portland has some of the strictest land use and zoning regulations in the country, I expect that those newer buildings were specifically designed to comply with architectural guidelines and other planning mandates.

replied to Buffalo All Star
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Agreed. Preservationists are not against all new builds-just shoddily designed ones that aren't designed in respect of their neighbors. That drum beat "preservationists are against all new builds" is getting so tired...and is so wrong. Anyone fight the Darwin Martin visitors' center? Anyone fighting the medical corridor? nope. A crappy suburban, cheap style in a historic neighborhood--you bet you a$$.

replied to JSmith
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The more I look at Portland, the more I think to myself: Buffalo will never have this... at least with the way Erie county is fractured with different town boards and villages that will fight tooth and nail against any sort of mass planning effort. Towns like Amherst, Clarence, Lancaster, and Orchard Park are perfectly happy with how their towns are expanding. If they were forced to reel it in, they know people will get up and move further out into Erie county where they can get their 1 acre track of land and 5 minute drive to the nearest Tim Hortons or Walmart because the neighboring communities allow it. Now, I live in Amherst, so I'm not one of those city snobs who hates all things suburbs, but with the poor economy and with the national trend towards new urbanism and mass transportation, the local towns and villages are at least 20 years behind the rest of the nation and the constant expansion has really become a problem in the last 5-10 years. I agree with the previous post in saying we need a strong leader. Unfortunately, the system is set up where it's impossible to get someone in there who doesn't have connections with the city council or one of the wealthy families still living in Buffalo.

Score: 2 ( 6 votes ) Vote up Vote down Report this comment

I'm not quite as pessimistic as some. I worked in Portland some 10 years back. I'm also originally from Southern California (didn't move to Buffalo until well into adulthood). Both are places that attract young people from places like Buffalo. Both are places with a local (local government functions fairly well in CA, state government excluded)governmental structure that "gets things done." Neither place is known for local machine politics. However, while I really loved the urban environment in Portland, I would prefer to live and work in Buffalo. Portland turned me off with a smugness that permeated my entire experience there. Moving to Buffalo was mind opening. A place with a great urban environment, tons of creative energy, and a lack of smug self-assurance? I'll take it. Likewise, CA suffers from the same self-assurance; however it is sadly becoming the old grandee that proudly sits in her increasingly threadbare evening gown in a mansion she can no longer afford to maintain, recalling her past elegance. I'll stay put.

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Well stated EMDO, I concure

replied to EMDO
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I don't know what I'm supposed to be envying in these snapshots of Portland. Or understand why there's so much whining here about how Buffalo could never have such a neighborhood. The architectural texture is predictable; it has the cramped, textbook look of every "revitalized" industrial neighborhood I've ever seen. It's fine, but it's not beautiful or memorable. If your soul hungers for hip and trendy, then go west young person. But if you bloom better in the light of beauty and grace, then stay put and open thine eyes.

I guess I'm just puzzled by the middlebrow lens of this post and comments. It's fine to extol a reborn neighborhood, but if Whole Foods is what passes for urbanity, then we should be worried. There are also pricy galleries in Buffalo, and they mostly have the same tedious art. Would Matisse or Cassat think "pricy galleries" are critical components of public culture?

Portland seems like a pleasant place with some good ideas. But for those people commenting that they left their hearts in Portland...you might recall that Buffalo's symphony, major art museums and literary culture have far deeper and more robust roots than Portland will see in a long time. Our public library system, though facing cuts, is astonishingly rich and rigorous. Shouldn't that fact be more impressive and meaningful than the glassy condo or the trendy gallery in an overhyped city? And as Buffalo recreates its own industrial precincts, can't we embrace our own patina, longer history and distinctive grandeur? That seems wiser than skating with envy along the glossy surface of Portland's Pearl.

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How about making people who work for the city teacher etc live in the city? Wouldn't this increase population tax revenue? How about the city giving incentives for businesses to relocate in the city? I use to work in the city at La Riviere dr where Time Warner is. Now I work in the burbs cause that's were the work takes me. I miss being in the city.

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Why not make everyone who works in Buffalo either live in the city or pay a special commuter tax. This worked to raise revenue and number of residents in Philadelphia, NYC, and Seattle.

replied to chetroia
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Right now, I have probably lived equal time in Portland and Buffalo. Portland for me will remain special always because Oregon is where I grew up, just as Buffalo remains special to most who grew up here. As a student, I witnessed the transformation of Portland.

I agree for the future of Buffalo, its citizens need to look at its historic path and find its own path for rebirth. Precedent cases are wonderful, but for me the lesson of Portland is that it took an incremental path moving forward one step at a time. I remember silver bullet discussions, but in the end, it was incrementalism with a vision in Portland.

Less emphasis in Buffalo should be one the silver bullet projects and more focus should be on the small changes that can happen in a short time framework.

But thanks to Buffalo Rising for bringing attention to what was a success story. When I was a student you avoided the Burnside District now called Pearl District. It took almost 10 years of really hard work before changed really became noticed. Burnside was skid row and the heart of the homeless community. Today there are still remnants of skid row, but there is also coexistence.

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"How about making people who work for the city teacher etc live in the city? Wouldn't this increase population tax revenue? How about the city giving incentives for businesses to relocate in the city? I use to work in the city at La Riviere dr where Time Warner is. Now I work in the burbs cause that's were the work takes me. I miss being in the city"

Buffalo City teachers and administrators currently ARE required to live within the city limits. There are exceptions for high need/harder to fill positions such as special ed in a high need neighborhood.

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Only new hires are required to live in the city, most city teachers are under the old rules and the majority continue to live in the suburbs.

Of course most suburban districts have always required residency, a fact that is always overlooked when we debate the "merits" and "downside" of requiring residency in the city.

replied to LI2Northpark
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Portland is not Buffalo, and did not have a mayor of a surburban community saying thing's to block the metro from terminating there to " keep the n's out fo town " in short being a resident of the PNW now and a native of Buffalo New York, I've not seen the type of racism I saw in Buffalo. You have a black mayor sure, but we know whats thats really about.

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