By: Syrie Roman
Just when I thought I had food figured out and not much else could impress me, I set out to do a tasting of Bistro Europa's newest menu items. I sat at the bar of the cozy eatery and took in the great atmosphere, which I've learned is a direct reflection of the proprietors and their crew. This place is warm, relaxed and inviting, it encourages you to "eat up" and have another beer. The bistro's menu is moderately priced, the portions are completely satisfying and the décor is eclectic. The music alone gives off a cool, funky vibe without being obnoxious. Overall, Europa has an air of understated sophistication, but it offers is real food, for real people. There isn't an overuse of foams or essence, this is real, hearty, crave-able, stick to your ribs and makes you feel awesome type of food. This is the kind of innovative cuisine that inspires the diner, rather than leaving them feeling confused, or worse, intimidated.
Dan, the bartender/server/walking culinary encyclopedia has all the answers to any of your menu questions, so feel free to ask. The chef and staff here want you to ask questions, it's almost encouraged. Their menu, a compilation of pan European dishes, is the perfect example of "less is more". There are about 12 different small plates that range from Poland to Paris. Buffalo favorites such as potato pancakes and pierogi are served right next to items like my personal favorite, a charcuterie masterpiece, "Two-way Pate, Coppa di Testa & Butchers Pate." The menu also features six or seven entrees that include Portuguese chicken piri piri, Ukrainian spiced pork borscht, and the local T-Meadow Farms pork chop served with roasted corn budino and potatoes.
Europa's commitment to using local, fresh ingredients shows in every single one of their creations, from the menu staples to their kick-ass daily specials. On that particular evening the specials that graced the small blackboard on the wall included: clams and mussels flown in fresh from Boston and served in a romesco & chorizo broth, veal sweetbreads, and a Southern classic; whole roasted chicken with dirty rice, stuffing and fried green tomatoes.
The menu tasting quickly became a prime example of shameless gluttony and I savored every second of it. My first course was Snapper Crudo served with grapefruit champagne sorbet, white soy and shrimp oil (pictured above). The play of textures, temperatures, and flavors in this dish is out of this world. Crudo means raw in Spanish so the diner experiences the texture of the raw fish, the sweet and citrus-y chill of the sorbet and the spice of the yuzu chili paste. It's a winner in my book. My second course was one that has a lot of people talking, one that truly showcases Gedra's outside the box cooking; Braised Sunflower with housemade ricotta and a raisin caper vinaigrette. This was totally unexpected, the sunflower was meaty and it tasted earthy and grassy (lead image). I imagine it is what an artichoke and a green tomato would taste like if combined. The ricotta added a smoothness to it and the vinaigrette the tanginess; it's a must try and a great alternative for vegetarians. The third course was a refreshing Peach Caprese Salad (pictured below). Here was a fresh and rich mozzarella di bufala, three basils, amazing peaches and saba. At first glance I thought it might be too sweet because of the saba, which is essentially sweet grape syrup, but I was completely wrong. The mozzarella helped contrast and balance the sweetness of the other components. It was delish!
After these 3 courses, I was starting to wonder how much more I could eat since I was supposed to only "taste" the dishes in order to have room for all of them. But my hand was on a mission! It was going to shovel every morsel of food in sight straight in my mouth, and boy was my mouth willing to comply! I was salivating in anticipation of what was coming next. Each creation was even tastier than the one before, how could this possibly get any better? The fourth and fifth course came out at the same time. I took one look at them and smiled because if this was my last meal (I was about to go into a food induced coma, so it was possible that it might be) I would die one happy girl!
I started with Seared Potato Crusted Diver Scallops, which were served with a saffron/corn emulsion & roasted fingerlings. The scallops, also flown in from Boston, where the size of my fist and cooked to perfection/ The accompanying olive tapenade gave the whole dish an entirely different layer of flavor, and the fingerlings where perfect little sponges with which yo soak up the tasty saffron corn emulsion. The last course was my favorite. It is one of those dishes that transports you, that speaks to your senses and leaves you unsure as to whether you should laugh or cry. Housemade tagliatelle pasta is served with heirloom tomatoes, housemade ricotta, sesame and shaved summer black truffles. This is what simple, yet refined, cuisine is all about. The pasta was perfectly al dente, the tomatoes tasted as they had been picked that morning, the sesame seeds gave the surprise factor, the ricotta imparted that hint of cheese associated with pasta dishes (without making it heavy), and the truffles where fragrant and delicate, yet they made their presence known. It was the perfect end to this food journey, simply perfect!
It's no secret that this tiny restaurant is a force to be reckoned with. It's been called the "three-headed monster" for a reason, it makes reference to the talented individuals behind all the fabulous food: Steve Gedra (chef and owner), Ellen Haag Gedra (pastry chef and owner) and Chef Bruce Wieszala (charcuterie and butchery genius). These three chefs, along with the rest of their crew, are redefining the food scene in Buffalo. Bistro Europa is not only a dining experience, it's a journey of the senses. It evokes emotions and it speaks to the needs and wants of its guests.
If you haven't had the opportunity to dine at Bistro Europa, I exhort you to do so.
Bistro Europa
484 Elmwood Avenue
Buffalo, NY 14222
(716) 884-1100
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Woman. Puerto Rican. Wife. Culinarian. Loves to cook, eat, drink, write and read, Syrie Roman Legnon can't swim, curses like a sailor and is convinced there are few better things than a really cold beer.
View image
Just when I thought I had food figured out and not much else could impress me, I set out to do a tasting of Bistro Europa's newest menu items. I sat at the bar of the cozy eatery and took in the great atmosphere, which I've learned is a direct reflection of the proprietors and their crew. This place is warm, relaxed and inviting, it encourages you to "eat up" and have another beer. The bistro's menu is moderately priced, the portions are completely satisfying and the décor is eclectic. The music alone gives off a cool, funky vibe without being obnoxious. Overall, Europa has an air of understated sophistication, but it offers is real food, for real people. There isn't an overuse of foams or essence, this is real, hearty, crave-able, stick to your ribs and makes you feel awesome type of food. This is the kind of innovative cuisine that inspires the diner, rather than leaving them feeling confused, or worse, intimidated.
Dan, the bartender/server/walking culinary encyclopedia has all the answers to any of your menu questions, so feel free to ask. The chef and staff here want you to ask questions, it's almost encouraged. Their menu, a compilation of pan European dishes, is the perfect example of "less is more". There are about 12 different small plates that range from Poland to Paris. Buffalo favorites such as potato pancakes and pierogi are served right next to items like my personal favorite, a charcuterie masterpiece, "Two-way Pate, Coppa di Testa & Butchers Pate." The menu also features six or seven entrees that include Portuguese chicken piri piri, Ukrainian spiced pork borscht, and the local T-Meadow Farms pork chop served with roasted corn budino and potatoes.
Europa's commitment to using local, fresh ingredients shows in every single one of their creations, from the menu staples to their kick-ass daily specials. On that particular evening the specials that graced the small blackboard on the wall included: clams and mussels flown in fresh from Boston and served in a romesco & chorizo broth, veal sweetbreads, and a Southern classic; whole roasted chicken with dirty rice, stuffing and fried green tomatoes.
The menu tasting quickly became a prime example of shameless gluttony and I savored every second of it. My first course was Snapper Crudo served with grapefruit champagne sorbet, white soy and shrimp oil (pictured above). The play of textures, temperatures, and flavors in this dish is out of this world. Crudo means raw in Spanish so the diner experiences the texture of the raw fish, the sweet and citrus-y chill of the sorbet and the spice of the yuzu chili paste. It's a winner in my book. My second course was one that has a lot of people talking, one that truly showcases Gedra's outside the box cooking; Braised Sunflower with housemade ricotta and a raisin caper vinaigrette. This was totally unexpected, the sunflower was meaty and it tasted earthy and grassy (lead image). I imagine it is what an artichoke and a green tomato would taste like if combined. The ricotta added a smoothness to it and the vinaigrette the tanginess; it's a must try and a great alternative for vegetarians. The third course was a refreshing Peach Caprese Salad (pictured below). Here was a fresh and rich mozzarella di bufala, three basils, amazing peaches and saba. At first glance I thought it might be too sweet because of the saba, which is essentially sweet grape syrup, but I was completely wrong. The mozzarella helped contrast and balance the sweetness of the other components. It was delish!After these 3 courses, I was starting to wonder how much more I could eat since I was supposed to only "taste" the dishes in order to have room for all of them. But my hand was on a mission! It was going to shovel every morsel of food in sight straight in my mouth, and boy was my mouth willing to comply! I was salivating in anticipation of what was coming next. Each creation was even tastier than the one before, how could this possibly get any better? The fourth and fifth course came out at the same time. I took one look at them and smiled because if this was my last meal (I was about to go into a food induced coma, so it was possible that it might be) I would die one happy girl! I started with Seared Potato Crusted Diver Scallops, which were served with a saffron/corn emulsion & roasted fingerlings. The scallops, also flown in from Boston, where the size of my fist and cooked to perfection/ The accompanying olive tapenade gave the whole dish an entirely different layer of flavor, and the fingerlings where perfect little sponges with which yo soak up the tasty saffron corn emulsion. The last course was my favorite. It is one of those dishes that transports you, that speaks to your senses and leaves you unsure as to whether you should laugh or cry. Housemade tagliatelle pasta is served with heirloom tomatoes, housemade ricotta, sesame and shaved summer black truffles. This is what simple, yet refined, cuisine is all about. The pasta was perfectly al dente, the tomatoes tasted as they had been picked that morning, the sesame seeds gave the surprise factor, the ricotta imparted that hint of cheese associated with pasta dishes (without making it heavy), and the truffles where fragrant and delicate, yet they made their presence known. It was the perfect end to this food journey, simply perfect!
It's no secret that this tiny restaurant is a force to be reckoned with. It's been called the "three-headed monster" for a reason, it makes reference to the talented individuals behind all the fabulous food: Steve Gedra (chef and owner), Ellen Haag Gedra (pastry chef and owner) and Chef Bruce Wieszala (charcuterie and butchery genius). These three chefs, along with the rest of their crew, are redefining the food scene in Buffalo. Bistro Europa is not only a dining experience, it's a journey of the senses. It evokes emotions and it speaks to the needs and wants of its guests.
If you haven't had the opportunity to dine at Bistro Europa, I exhort you to do so.
Bistro Europa
484 Elmwood Avenue
Buffalo, NY 14222
(716) 884-1100
----
Woman. Puerto Rican. Wife. Culinarian. Loves to cook, eat, drink, write and read, Syrie Roman Legnon can't swim, curses like a sailor and is convinced there are few better things than a really cold beer.
This place has quickly become one of the top 5 restaurants in the city. I have always had an amazing meal there and if you have never had their pork chop, then you have never had a real pork chop, dead serious.