food August 1, 2010 8:35 AM

Brunch Bunch: Bistro Europa

Brunch Bunch: Bistro Europa
By: Natalie Grigg

Where can you go for a decadent dining experience that is sure to tempt your taste buds and make you want to return for more before you have even left? That would be Bistro Europa. Open for lunch and dinner all week long and on Sunday for brunch service from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., Bistro Europa is located on the 500 block of Elmwood. Recently under new ownership, the eatery's new found fans and regulars have learned to arrive early in order to insure themselves a seat at one of the intimate bistro's handful of tables.

The menu at Bistro Europa can only be described as extraordinary. Yes, you will see breakfast classics such as housemade yogurt and granola ($6), a ham and cheese croissant ($7), and even Super Fluffy Blueberry Pancakes ($10), but the majority of the menu is a diverse and exotic compilation of tastes, textures, and offerings that I have not seen elsewhere. Such offerings include the Boar Meatball Sandwich, the Lobster Pancetta Lettuce and Tomato Roll ($16) and Rosemary Basted Eggs ($8).

Diners can also sample Europa's housemade bacon, breakfast sausage, and corned beef hash. Even the brunch beverages available--which include a classic mimosa as well as "The Londoner", a Bloody Geisha (a Bloody Mary with sake), a Mint Sherry Julep, a Black Velvet, and Sangria--are something to savor.

We arrived promptly at 11:30, and within half an hour, the Bistro's interior and small outdoor patio were filled with customers coming to dine with family or meet friends in this quaint and eclectic restaurant. Our experience proved the service to be friendly, and the atmosphere is upbeat. The food? Well, that just puts it over the top.

I started my breakfast with the Grapefruit Brulee ($3). I was excited with the anticipation for the moment when the caramelized sugar would break under the tapping of my spoon, rendering its first delightful crack. After hearing the breaking of the golden sugar crust, I eagerly spooned into the grapefruit. The caramelized sugar was still warm, as was the top of the grapefruit, with the remainder of the fruit refreshingly cool. The tart, juicy fruit was a nice complement to the sweet, crunchy sugar crust dissolving in my mouth. I can only imagine that this would pair well with the yogurt and granola that is also on the menu, but I had bigger plans.

The Grand Slam was next up to bat (see lead image). This is a dish that I have been fantasizing about since I first saw it made at a Nickel City Chef competition I attended a few months back (see video below). It was my obsession for this dish that brought me here to begin with, though after tasting the other dishes that we ordered I can say that I fantasize about much more than just the Grand Slam now, but I digress. The Grand Slam is a tempura fried egg served with maple braised pork belly and truffled potato hash. The result? A culinary masterpiece designed to satisfy every edible craving you could ever have. Salty, sweet, crunchy, moist...you name it, this dish has it. But I should warn you, this is not for the faint of heart or those of you trying to watch your calories. Let's start with the egg. Perfectly poached on the inside, then fried in a light tempura batter (resulting in a beautiful crust of golden brown), the completed egg which arrives on your plate is light and crunchy on the outside and moist and rich on the inside. Add the braised pork belly that is tender and slightly sweet from the maple syrup, and the truffle-scented potato hash, and you have a dish that is both satisfying and a delightful romp through flavors and textures. This dish was so good even my three-year old kept asking for more.

bistro inset.jpgWe also ordered the Lobster PLT and the Super Fluffy Blueberry Pancakes. Super fluffy, you ask? Absolutely. For those of you who have seen my prior articles, you've noted that my daughter loves pancakes, which results in me always writing about them, but these pancakes are by far some of the best I've had in all my days. "Fluffy" as a descriptor is an understatement. "Scrumptious cloud of blueberry-filled goodness" is more like it. You don't even need the maple syrup that it is served with them since they are inherently sweet, but if you do choose to drizzle it over the hot stack, it just brings the pancake to a higher level.

bistro brunch inset lobster.jpgAnd the Lobster PLT, I believe may be a newer addition to the menu, and one that should not be missed. Sweet lobster meat is served with homemade pancetta, tomatoes, and lettuce on a housemade split top New England-style roll, covered with a generous dose of chipotle aioli. Served with a side of greens, the Lobster PLT was refreshing and satisfying.

So, if you have an adventurous palate and are seeking a unique dining experience, Bistro Europa is the place for you. You can sit at the bar, at a cushion-lined banquette against the wall, or at one of the tables spaced throughout this quaint establishment. But no matter where you sit, as long as you are at Europa for brunch, Sunday can't get any better.

 

Bistro Europa
484 Elmwood Avenue
Buffalo, NY 14222

(716) 884-1100



----
Natalie Grigg is a mom, lawyer and avid eater.


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Comments

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Thanks for the post! Went to check it out this morning. I had the lobster roll and my husband had the grand slam. They were both absolutely incredible! Loved every bite.

Score: 3 ( 3 votes ) Vote up Vote down Report this comment

This restaurant is on another level. The chefs here are creating interesting dishes that are unbeatable.

Score: 3 ( 3 votes ) Vote up Vote down Report this comment

This is the best restaurant in Buffalo, period. I make a point of trying to eat here once a week.

Score: 4 ( 4 votes ) Vote up Vote down Report this comment

What is homemade bacon!? It sounds kind of test-tuby...

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Pork, salt, sugar, and hickory wood. Yep, sounds like rocket science to me. Oh I forgot, bacon didn't exist until big industrial food processing plants. In fact didn't Oscar Mayer invent bacon?

replied to CindyLee
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"Homemade" and "housemade" are common menu descriptors used by restaurants who wish to identify items that are made from scratch "in house" rather than purchased from a purveyor. Europa makes virtually everything they sell from scratch--butter, mayo, bread, pasta, mozzarella, bacon, pancetta, prosciutto, coppa di testa, mustard, etc. where most other restaurants purchase those things pre-made.

In fact, CindyLee, plenty of people make bacon at home now and did for centuries before they began buying it from supermarkets. Want to try some really good bacon? I suggest you do a taste test at home using standard supermarket bacon and the real stuff. Check out the "housemade" bacon at Spar's on Amherst Street, another place where most everything is made from scratch.

replied to CindyLee
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Bacon didn't exist until PIGS! Home made usually means made from scratch! Nobody invented bacon! It's like saying home made eggs! Very odd reference...

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Actually it's more like saying homemade jam or homemade sausage. Bacon doesn't come smoked and seasoned straight off the pig-- a person does that.

replied to CindyLee
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Somehow those comments are out of order... I never saw your comment before I wrote anything. Anyway it can be prepared or enhanced at home, but not made. Jam requires ingredients to make jam. Bacon does not.. it is bacon. Make + create. Think of it that way. If people are preparing bacon at home that is one thing, but only a pig can make it. It's semantics... but I love you darling! At least we can have a conversation without sniping at each other. I appreciate you very much for that reason above all else. Impossible to be civil when no one ever concedes to anything! Keep up the great work! You rock :)

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Oh, I understand what you are saying now! Though a point could be made that bacon isn't actually bacon, but pork belly, until someone "makes" it. No? ;-)

replied to CindyLee
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No, only a pig can make it.

You are just too nice CGS.

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What? Is a blueberry called "blueberry jam" before the proper methods are used to make it into jam? "Bacon" is called pork belly when it is bought as a whole piece and raw. It needs to be cured and smoked before it is called bacon. In fact, it can also be turned into pancetta. So is it automatically bacon if it's raw? No. It's pork belly. Pork belly can be braised from raw and served and it would be called pork belly on a menu. Not bacon.

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