City July 9, 2010 8:05 AM

BRO Leaves Town #3 - Chicago Sucks (not really but sort of)

BRO Leaves Town #3 - Chicago Sucks (not really but sort of)
As our BRO summer vacation tour continues I thought I would do a little city bashing to make Buffalo feel a bit better about itself. For my next two posts I am going to look at the seamy underside of two very different cities and compare them to Buffalo.  The first city in my sights, as you can see from the title, is Chicago Illinois.  yep that's right Chicago sucks.
 
Of course Chicago does not suck (too much).  It is a fantastic city with amazing neighborhoods, a Great Lake, and a great architectural tradition.  It is vibrant, fabulously wealthy, and chock full of wonderful institutions.  Buffalo in many ways resembles Chicago, which might be why I was originally attracted to the city. Any individual Buffalo neighborhood could easily fit comfortably in Chicago.  Also just like Buffalo, not all is good in Chicago.  Although the grass may appear very green on this side of the fence it is grass that has become a bit unkempt of late.  I began thinking of writing this story as the Statler troubles unfolded after the Bashar Issa debacle.  That massive empty building in the center of downtown has become a poster-building for all that is wrong in New York State and Buffalo.  Well Buffalo don't despair, you are not alone Chicago wants to steal your limelight.
 
Where do we start - First, Illinois government is in a horrible mess. It has a massive $12B deficit (not counting last year's). The governor and legislature cannot agree on how to fix it.  They have not been able to pass a budget and have failed to pay out money owed state colleges and local school districts.  The state told them to go borrow the money.  The Chicago schools are planning to lay off 7000 teachers and increase class sizes to 38 students. The Chicago Transit Authority just recently made drastic reductions to its bus and train schedules to fill a void in its budget. The governor that I mentioned?   He is in office because he took over after the last one was kicked out of office.  That former gov is now on trial for corruption including trying to sell President Obama's senate seat.  The governor before him is already in jail.  The C(r)ook County sales tax is the highest in the nation at 11% in parts of the city.  Even with this giant tax the county still has trouble balancing a budget.  A former Chicago police commander was just convicted for torture and the state has a moratorium on its death penalty law because 7 or 8 death row inmates were found to actually be innocent.

Chicago-2.jpg
 
With that primer let's get back to talking about big empty buildings.  I know people in Buffalo like to think they are special and that a big empty Statler building is quite unique in the USA and that only Buffalo is so sucky and the Statler should be torn down and the city is corrupt and the crack addicts - blah blah blah.  Well I hate to break your heart Buffalo but you are not unique.  Chicago is filled with empty giants and dead projects.  Much of this is due to the recent economic crisis but some of the vacancy goes back decades.  Across the street from my office sits a brand new (well, 1 1/2 year old) 12-storey condo building with a massive parking garage.  I think it must have over 100 apartments and also includes one commercial space.  The building is completely empty.  It hit the market 2 years too late. Even so, it probably would have been foreclosure central if it had been completed before the economic crash set in.  Although Chicago is not in the big leagues of real estate bubble popping disasters like Las Vegas or Phoenix, it is still quite dismal owning one of the highest foreclosure rates and a hefty drop in house values.  I estimate that my (paper) loss from the high point against Buffalo's continued gain in real estate value is close to $150,000, maybe more. Thankfully I did not buy in at the insane price level 2 years ago.  
 
Half built structures are common around the city.  Just down the street from the empty condo building sits the shell of a half built group of low rise condos which were halted in their tracks after the economic melt down.  The biggest and most prominent of these ghost buildings is the half built Waterview Tower.  It was to rise 90 stories above Wacker Drive, one of the most prestigious business streets in the city.  It sits as a hulking concrete frame, having gotten to just barely above the parking deck level.   Its neighbors recently sued to have the idled tower-crane removed.  Walking by, pedestrians are greeted with aging signs proclaiming the great lifestyle this building was to provide. 
 
Chicago-3.jpg

Around the corner from Cityview Tower is Block 37.  Block 37 is such a dysfunctional development site that it has an entire book written about it.  The site was cleared of a fabulous set of historic buildings 20 years ago.  Plans to tear down the block go back at least another 20 years before that.  For 17 of those years the block sat idle except for a temporary park that gave it some much needed life.  The site was finally developed with a very scaled back mixed use structure.  The building came on line just in time to celebrate the bank crisis.  The mall portion is mostly empty with a slowly increasing tenant base.  Emptiness abounds in other large structures as well.  The old county hospital building (the model setting  for the TV show ER) has been empty since a new hospital was completed 8 years ago.  The massive historic building is a wedding cake of detail. Some wanted to tear it down but momentum seems to be gathering to save it. No plan yet however.  Chicago's old post office is another empty giant.  Again it was vacated when a replacement was built.  Its 3 million square feet have been empty for 15 years.  The federal government spends $2 million a year to maintain the empty building.  Can you think of something better to do with $30 mil and counting?  No plans have stuck for this one yet either.  Interesting that the feds decided to just ditch the old post office in Buffalo when its time had come. Buffalo figured out what to do with the massive building to the consternation of many who coveted the site for parking.
 
So all this writing to say that Buffalo really isn't doing so bad sort of.  There have been a flurry of new projects proposed as the state is finally set to pass a law that benefits upstate (oh wait not yet!).  On top of that the city finally has a crop of developers who actually do something, unemployment is not the worst in the country or even close to worst, real estate values continue to rise, and the sales tax is not the highest in the country.  Now if only M&T does not sell out to the Spaniards and HSBC grows its presence in Downtown we can really start to party.
 
Next up: Buffalo Ain't Detroit
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Thanks for some well-needed perspective, Steel. I think Buffalo shares many of the same positive and negative aspects of larger cities, just to a smaller scale in each case.

I took the train to Chicago a few months ago, and it was quite an eye-opener arriving in Chicago through the South Side. The vacancy and empty blocks there make much of Buffalo's East Side look positively stable and charming.

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I also have taken the train to and through Chicago, I really like seeing a city from the backside so to speak, it gives a different perspective that helps get an overall feel of the place. Also tends to take you through the historic core areas where many of the oldest buildings survive.

replied to JSmith
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I would take Buffalo over Chicago any day. LAst time I was there I had red shoelaces in and I didn't know it was a gang thing so I was very worried about someone thinking I was in a certain gang. The gang grafitti is everywhere, plus I think it's just plain dirty there.

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Great perspective Steel. I think native Buffalonians sometimes need to be reminded that Buffalo is not completely unique in terms of dysfunctional government, stalled projects, analysis paralysis, etc.

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As a life-long Chicagoan who moved here in February, I have to agree with many of Steel's points. As someone who has always fought for the underdog and was given much grief for moving here (the common response to my intent-to-move statements were, "Buffalo, NEW YORK?!" said with disdain...) I am one of this city's biggest cheerleaders.

When people ask the difference between our cities, I often say, with no arrogance implied, that Buffalo is like a mini-Chicago. The food*, people and architecture are similar; the "vibe" is just so parallel. The moribund political systems- Chicago's and Illinois'- are certainly on par with Buffalo's and New York State's, too. And the often wreckless disregard for our local treasures-specifically, our architecture- is often sadly corresponding as well.

Like Steel, I returned to Chicago a few weeks ago via train. My boyfriend (my reason for coming here) and I were both amazed at swaths of the southside's resemblance to Buffalo's east side. I knew there were problems in my native city, but as a Northwest-sider (and therefore somewhat insulated from the poorest areas- we tend to be a bit provincial in Chicago)I just didn't know the extent.

But something else we noticed on the next leg of our trip, which had us taking the surface-rail to my mom's in the near 'burbs: Chicago's west side has an incredible amount of industry and manufacturing. Block after block of factories and other bustling industrial buildings reminded us of one of the lesser-known reasons for Chicago's wealth: we still have a lot of industry located witin the city proper.

Another quick and somewhat obvious point: I think it's a heckuva a lot easier to hide blight in a city of 3 million vs. 300,000, and people tend to forget that fact.

Now if we can just get this city a mayor/king/dictator like Mayor Daley, that we can alternatly worship and/or heap scorn upon as an answer to everything that goes good or bad in our town, we'll be all set for the next thirty years.

*Except the hot dogs. I'm sorry, I just can't dig on Sahlen's after thirty-some years of all-beef Viennas. But I love the pizza, which I feel is my redeeming quality.

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Good take but I love the Chicago hot dogs, not at the airport but in the neighborhood joints.

replied to AlexisK.
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"Chicago's west side has an incredible amount of industry and manufacturing. Block after block of factories and other bustling industrial buildings reminded us of one of the lesser-known reasons for Chicago's wealth: we still have a lot of industry located witin the city proper."

The above would be good to read for those who like to say U.S. manufacturing is dead or gone. I wonder in what part of China or Mexico they think Chicago is located. Manufacturing is still important to WNY's economy as well. It would be interesting to know how this area has been doing for that in the past 5-10 years compared to Chicago.

replied to AlexisK.
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Ooops! That was commentor JSmith that took the train...

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I spent some time visiting a friend in the South Side of Chicago and was surprised just how much our cities had in common. The architecture, neighborhoods, and overall feel are very similar. Two differences I noticed were the larger number and better quality of the in fill housing construction and the much larger black middle class neighborhoods.
As for the dysfunctional governments, all cities seem to have their issues. Anytime I travel I like to read the Op Ed pages and the complaints and debates are all very familiar. Those that always put down Buffalo may have not experienced other places or are just naive to the problems of other cities.

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I have been in Chicago the last 13 years and really enjoy living and working the city (live in the River North area), but having just visited back home for a week with my 2 young kids (2 yrs & 5 mos.), I again experienced how wonderful WNY truly is. Government dysfunction & high taxes are ingrained in me, so I would easily trade Buffalo for Chicago.

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I'm actually going to Chicago next week, and I love that freaking town. The thing that draws people there are the opportunities, Chicago just has many more. While their hotdogs are awesome, I'd still take Teds over Portillos in a heartbeat. They do have very similar problems, they want turn Wriglyville into a mini mall which is just terrible.

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I know it might seem nice to look at a much larger and wealthier city's problems, but it does no one any good to laugh at them. Buffalo Rising and many of its readers seem to hate when anyone rags on Buffalo, why post something nonconstructive such at this?

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Great point, I suppose it makes us feel better though, it sometimes seems like the grass is greener everywhere except Buffalo.

replied to ke$ha
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Chicago had a good head of steam going into this economic buzzsaw and now I suppose they are in similar straits as Buffalo, maybe worse. It's nothing to celebrate. We need a powerful economic engine or two in the Great Lakes lest all cities get tarred with the same rust belt brush undoing so much of the work of the last 30 years changing public perceptions as cities restructured away from the smokestacks. It does very little good for Buffalo to hail itself as the cleanest shirt in a closet filled with dirty laundry.

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What a ridiculous post. The entire nation is going through a serious recession, so find me a city that doesn't have these problems? I guess we should all feel great about the state of Buffalo because Chicago is also hurting? I guess the difference here is that few in Buffalo (unless you are over 60) can even remember a time when Buffalo was prosperous.

Can't wait for the Buffalo is not Detroit entry. Pretty pathetic that you have to pick on Detroit to make you feel better about Buffalo. Why don't you stick to the Growing up City posts, at least those were funny.

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I think it's bizarre that you exclusively post negative comments about the City of Buffalo, but then when STEEL writes a post about similar issues in another city, you think that's pathetic.

So, your comment rubric is something like, "Positive comments about Buffalo = pathetic; Negative comments about other cities = pathetic."

What tragedy happened in your life that causes your miserable, pathological hatred of Buffalo to trump whatever semblance of critical thinking skills you possess?

replied to georged
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What a silly post. BRO was always about the positive in Buffalo. Why rag on another city that is having the same problems as every city, town and village in America at the moment? Steels last to posts have been about Chicago, why compare Apples and Oranges.

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The Blackhawks just won the Stanley Cup. Maybe next year, Buffalonians!!!!

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My company's main office is in Chicago, so I get there occasionally. I love the City. But I also loved this article - it provides real perspective, solid information & good pictures. Why bash the article? BRO hasn't lost its way because of a few posts like this. I also think it supports the notion that Buffalo is much closer to being on the right track to revival than we were 30, 20 or even 10 years ago.

And about the hot dogs - you can get all-beef hot dogs anywhere in the country. If you grow up eating Sahlen's with Webers horseradish mustard, hot off the grill, there is nothing like it that I've found in my travels. When I visit my brother in Colorado I have to pack at least 5 - 10 pounds of Sahlen's & 2 jars of Webers. It is a true Buffalo guilty pleasure.

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I found this analysis to be informative. I don’t see this as a vehicle to trash any city. I felt that its purpose was to reinforce that Buffalo is not the only city with issues. In lining up various cities for my next home, I’ve been looking at several websites. Everyone seems to relish in insisting they live in the most corrupt city with the worst government and burdensome taxes.

Steel’s comments reaffirm that all cities have issues and that Buffalo doesn’t stand alone. I see a lot of positives in Buffalo. If I had massive amounts of money, I would likely still be in San Francisco. I’ve only been to Chicago a couple of times, but loved it and I can see some parallels with Buffalo. However, when you venture outside of the charm of most anywhere, there are disturbing parts of Anytown, USA.

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It's difficult to believe any well informed people seriously think most of Buffalo's problems are unique or even rare. But if any do, I suppose this kind of article can be part of making them better informed. It sounds as naive as thinking many of Buffalo's positives (low costs, 4 seasons, arts, friendliness, etc.) are unique or rare, and sometimes I see that implied too.

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Buffalo's problems are definitely not unique. What's irksome is the almost reflexive tendency by some Buffalonians to assume this attitude that Buffalo is somehow deservedly placed at the bottom of America's ****chute. It's not and never has been. Some people who have visited Buffalo have noted that the negative attitude that they have seen the natives display is far harsher towards Buffalo then the perpetual snow stereotype that outsiders display towards our city. There's a lot of truth to that. I guess it's the glass half empty, glass half filled paradigm. I go with the half filled perspective myself.

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Oh and Chicago Pizza is horrible

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With regards to this article "bashing" Chicago, I don't think that was the case at all. I think the "Chicago 'sucks' " thing was just tongue-in-cheek and should be taken as such. I didn't read it as insulting, just a piece trying to show people here that even the "great" cities (in the minds of the rest of Americans, anyway) have plenty of their own problems.

And I have to agree with jstraubinger; I've found many Buffalonians with a crappier attitude toward their own city than outsiders have! Learn at least this from a Chicagoan: throw back your shoulders, hold your head high, and proudly announce your hometown! Because I firmly believe that half of the reason Chicago is perceived as so great is because its people believe it so fervently.

Oh, and Steel? Why don't you step outside with me and "Lucy and Ethel" (spitting on fists) and we can discuss Chicago pizza, eh? ;^)

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Well, if you like buying frozen pizza in a restaurant I might not have a case :-)

replied to AlexisK.
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All cities have good and not-so-good neighborhoods. I bought a rowhouse in Philly a few years ago. One of the most memorable phrases I've heard to describe the city is that it is "Boston surrounded by Detroit." The reason it's so memorable is that there's a stark truth to it. Unfortunately my neighborhood is more toward the latter than the former. But don't pity me. The purchase price certainly reflected that fact. That's just the reality most of us have to deal with: Choose the best neighborhood you can get for what you can afford. I just know that though my neighborhood has seen better days, its condition is partially offset by the possibilities it presents (not unlike many areas of Buffalo).

It's my belief that negative attitutes from out-of-towners about Buffalo stem from impressions of downtown. If they visit and don't see a whole lot of activity, the impression is that the place (meaning the whole city) is dead. If visitors were steered toward Elmwood and Allentown as they were during the NCAAs, they would know that's not the case. But of course that doesn't mean the status quo should be accepted and downtown should be left as is. What I like about this website is that it can focus not just on the big "silver bullet" projects that would make the Buffalo News but also the many small projects it takes to build these neighborhoods and downtown to the point where visitors will be less reluctant to walk around and explore.

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