Part 1: Style, Skincare and the Sun

By: Emily Burns

The summer season in Western New York seems to go by incredibly quickly, so we may as well enjoy every warm day and bit of sunshine we get. To celebrate the pleasant weather, I'm pulling together a 3-part summer series for BRO readers to help them enjoy the sunshine safely and stylishly.
 
Starting out, "Style, Skincare, and the Sun" features insider info from two local makeup, skincare and aesthetic pros who have offered up their expertise for healthy living in the sun, along with some timely seasonal makeup tips.


Next, stay tuned for "The Best Bathing Suits", highlighting some of the ideal places around town to find beach attire and accessories for all shapes and sizes, and, last  "Secret Sunny Spots",  which will uncover some of the best spots to enjoy the much deserved sunshine and warm weather (your tips and recommendations of locations are most welcome)!

Let's begin our focus on the changing weather conditions and how they affect skin and beauty regimens. Every day the local weather improves, the sun is out longer and stronger and we are exposed to the elements for extended stretches of time. As news reports have shown, new statistics and facts continually emerge concerning the damaging effects of the sun on skin and overall health.
 
While many love to bask in the glow of the summer rays, we have learned in the last few years that it is not the best choice, and that prolonged sun exposure can cause unexpected sunburn and skin damage, eye damage, immune system suppression, and even cancer.

The negative effects of UV radiation are top of mind for lawmakers too. With the recent passage of the new health care bill, the Obama administration has imposed a 10% tax on individuals receiving indoor tanning services starting July 1st. The U.S. Department of Health and Human Services and the World Health Organization have also both stated that UV radiation from the sun and other sources is cancer-causing, in the same category as tobacco smoke and asbestos.



So, to learn and share some helpful summer skin tips and tricks, I've reached out to Annette Roetzer, an aesthetician at Ellicott Street's Fix Salon & Aesthetics, who received high-level training from the Continental School of Aesthetics. 

I've also spoken with Katherine Lucas, Owner and Executive Producer at Emedia Studios, a full service video and digital multimedia company, and a freelance celebrity makeup artist who has helped many stars and celebs including Oprah Winfrey, Hillary and Bill Clinton and Britney Spears look their best.

Buffalo Rising: What are your most important rules for healthy skincare during the warm summer months?
Annette Roetzer: "Paraben*-free SPF 30 sunscreen for your face & body delivers powerful daily UVA & UVB protection while keeping skin soft, moisturized and hydrated."

Parabens are chemicals often found in cosmetics and tens of thousands of other products acting as preservatives, extending shelf life by inhibiting bacterial growth. According to reports, weight gain, hormone disruption, and breast cancer are all included on the list of possible side effects associated with parabens.

BR: What are some of the common misconceptions that people have about the effects of the sun on their skin and tanning in general?
AR: "It is a misconception that the sun is the main culprit for causing skin cancer. Skin cancer is found among the healthiest people on the planet who have avoided the sun as much as possible."

Cancers, in general, are caused by a mixture of environmental and genetic factors. A common belief is that only fair skinned people can be affected by skin cancer, yet dark skinned people can also be affected and are advised to use sun protection as well.
 
From Bottom Line's Daily Health News, June 2, 2010: "A recent study led by Latrice Pichon, PhD, from the School of Public Health at the University of Michigan and published in the March 2010 issue of the American Journal of Preventive Medicine, surveyed more than 2,000 adult African Americans in California. It said that while the potentially deadly skin cancer melanoma is 10 times more common in Caucasians than in African Americans, those dark-skinned individuals who do contract melanoma have only a 77% survival rate compared with 91% for Caucasians."

Otis Brawley, MD, chief medical officer and executive vice president of the American Cancer Society is quoted in the article as saying "While people who are predisposed to tanning instead of burning are less likely to get skin cancer," he said, "there's no such thing as zero chance. At the American Cancer Society, we recommend that all people, even those who tend to tan rather than burn, use sunscreen. Lower risk does not mean there's no risk."

BR: What can people do to better the quality and condition of sun damaged skin and how can they prevent it in the future?
AR: "Brighteners, glycolic acid cleansers/peels. Preventing- avoiding the sun without SPF and coverage at all times... even in the winter months!"

Over the counter (OTC) remedies for improving damaged skin include the use of products containing alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, which may have a smoothing effect. Vitamin C preparations can also have modest effects, reversing the appearance of sun damage. Additional remedies can include Tretinoin creams and gels, Tazarotene, chemical peels, laser surgery and more.

A more natural approach may include exfoliation, hydration, green tea treatments, eating certain foods with healthful qualities such as tomatoes, watermelon, blueberries and cold-water fish, as well as wearing hats with a large brim, sun-protective clothing and using sunscreen regularly.

BR: What are some of the best makeup products to conceal past sun damage or facial flaws?


Katherine Lucas: "The best way to conceal past sun damage is to eliminate it! There are many choices from plastic surgeons to dermatologists, but I'll share some makeup artist secrets. Sun damage leaves uneven skin tone, lines, and wrinkles. The surface skin can be helped a lot with a facial mask. Many are harsh and/or ineffective. The best, best, best facial mask is Milk of Magnesia! Yes, but don't drink it - apply a generous coat to your face, neck, chest, and backs of your hands. Relax for about 10 minutes, remove with a warm washcloth and moisturize while the skin is still damp. You will be delighted by the results. This can be done as often as you like, and need not fear a sun hypersensitivity. This time of year, bronzers are a nice, low makeup alternative. Be careful in applying, though. Remember that people see you from all angles. The fabulous jaw definition and cheekbone sculpting that looks so good in your makeup mirror looks like brown stripes in the real world. Apply with a light touch and blend the edges with a dry latex sponge wedge."

BR: What are some of your recommended or favorite sun products that people should check out and why?

KL: "My favorite sunscreen is the one that people will actually use. My mantra is: "Rays today, raisin tomorrow". The concept of a "healthy" tan drives me nuts! A tan is the skin's reaction to damage. Over time, tanned skin resembles rich Corinthian leather - great as upholstery, not so great on your face. That being said, there are some really great sun products that allow you to enjoy the short WNY summer and maintain your epidermis. I love the Neutrogena sport spray 100 SPF. It is quick drying, easy to apply to the back of your neck, ears, shoulder blades, anywhere. The average person needs a jigger full of sunscreen for full coverage - reapplied every 2 hours. Difficult to remember, but it works well if you do it. If you like a deep, even tan look, I recommend a self tanner."

AR: "Any SPF product that is paraben & mineral oil free. These are the safest/healthiest sunscreens for your skin!"

BR: Any self tanner dos and don'ts?
AR: "A nice golden glow always looks nice but be careful which product you choose. Always test an area of your skin first to see how your skin reacts. Avoid the hands and rougher areas because of the "orange" build up. Personally, I would just get a spray tan which only lasts a few days just in case anything went wrong."

KL: "Self tanners work best when you prepare the skin with mild exfoliation and moisturizing.  In the shower, use a gentle exfoliator (or make your own by mixing yogurt with oats and brown sugar - apply and shower off.  You can eat the remainder!) Then, while the skin is still damp, coat generously with moisturizer.  Let it dry.  Then evenly apply the self tanner, saving knees, ankles and elbows until last.  Don't forget the back of your neck, ears, etc.  It might work better with a buddy.  Let the tanner dry before getting dressed. Streaks are the dead giveaway, so a product like Jergens Natural Glow gives even results and comes in several shades and textures. The faux tan does not act as a sunscreen, so a hardy SPF is still needed."

BR: What about hot summer weather makeup tips? What are some of the best brands and techniques to try and apply so as to get through the hot weather and summer sweat?
AR: "Susan Posnick is an incredible line! They are 100% all-natural and contain no fillers. This line is the most natural line on the market & the coverage is amazing. This line has substantial sun protection that would not feel heavy or melt off in the heat."

KL: "Summer heat is hard on makeup. If you follow a good skincare regimen, you need only a little concealer or foundation for discolored spots. Covergirl's Outlast lipstain is really great - subtle color, no feathering. Water resistant eye makeup works better than water proof in really hot days - the enemy of summer makeup is facial oil, not water.  Waterproof makeup dissolves in oil, water resistant holds on longer. Blotting tissues (or single sheets of tissue) are a better choice than reapplying powder."

BR: What are some of the top makeup colors, looks and trends that beauty and fashion experts recommend our local style mavens try this summer?
AR: "Consider a bronzing powder to create, overall polish. Use a fan brush and sweep it over the eyes for a great quick look. Shimmers complement a summer look well, so add a little sparkle but try to keep things natural. Powders and crème sticks applied to the top of cheekbones and/or lids and brow bones will brighten eyes. Toss the heavy liner and shadowing away and instead simply line inside lower rims of your eyes with a color pencil. Lips can go brighter and glossier in the summer months. Waterproof mascara! And lastly, your sunscreen! Depending on your daily sun exposure, or in more frequent applications. Make it a part of your morning routine by applying a layer of sunscreen under your foundation/concealer/powder.

KL: "Our short summer season calls for a traditional summer shimmer, regardless of the year.  A light, shimmery eye shadow, blushes in a darker tone of your natural complexion, and glossy lips are always winners. This season shows some dramatic eye shadow colors - orange, turquoise, bright green. These are fun, but look best as accent colors rather than ballerina style whole lid application. The best thing about makeup, regardless of the season is that it is fun, and, if you make a mistake, it washes right off. Remember sunglasses to protect your eyes, and just a glossy smile should take you through the summer."


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Emily Alexandria Burns is a public relations and marketing professional who lives in the historic Johnson Park district of downtown Buffalo. Having attended the SUNY Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, Emily spent 10 years living and working there before returning to her hometown two years ago. A devoted dachshund owner, Emily runs the Buffalo Dachshund Club, sits on the Buffalo Zoo's ProZoo board and is a member of the Allentown Village Society. She is also especially interested in fashion and beauty and her current obsessions include AMC's "Mad Men", re-creating vintage cocktail recipes and exploring the best restaurant dishes in Buffalo.

Image courtesy of Flickr, lobster28