food April 19, 2010 10:34 AM

Nelson Starr: Yes Reservations

Nelson Starr: Yes Reservations
By: Nelson Starr

When I decided to write a column for this esteemed publication, it was not without serious reservations. Wait, not "No Reservations" but, instead, a big, fat "YES" to having major reservations. These reservations concern sticking my neck out and commenting further on the often-controversial Buffalo food scene. Although my "fan mail" post-Rustbelt Episode has easily had a ratio of 20 to 1 (positive to negative), there are always those few disturbed, aggrieved, angry types who have nothing better to do than hate on me for (supposedly) choosing to take one Anthony Bourdain to Ulrich's...or Schwabl's...or Nietzsche's over this or that other pet place of theirs. (For the record, I had a list of joints a mile long and they, the production company--and Tony himself--made the final choices). Could I really put up with these people's misanthropic complaints again? 

Oh, and the other predictable line of attack these ruminants get all lathered up over mid-chew concerns my qualifications, "Who is this Nelson Starr guy? What does he know about _____ (fill in the blank: food, music, Buffalo, etc.)." About the last thing on Earth I'd ever want to do is to accidentally fan the flames already leaping out of these folks' ever-volatile drool buckets. Me doing a column? I can already see the paint-peeled walls of these depraved critics' bedrooms, taped up with Buffalo Rising clippings and psychotic scribblings, much to the chagrin and concern of their parents (yes, they still live with Mom and Dad and, by the way, work at McDonald's). 

But, *%$#, I do have a lot of "creative" ideas to offer up and plenty of nit picky pet peeves of my own to complain about. The hated as hater? Well, probably not. Maybe I just need to don some body armor to brave my critics' obvious projections of self-loathing, and then get on with it already!

Heck, I reckon Buffalo needs me. Certainly, I'm the sane one here. It'd be a crime if I didn't weigh-in. After all, I was on national TV! I guess I'll just have to ignore the comments section (below) and forge ahead with "all the answers" because I, like all the rest of the Buffalo bloggerati, know exactly--precisely--how to fix Buffalo. I'm sure all it will take is just a little more ink (or a few more pixels) from a highly-select crowd of my enlightened peers (but especially from me)!

Over the next several truly revelatory articles I write, I will solve many of the foodie quandaries that have appeared intractable--until now. Like, why a more upscale and decidedly trendy restaurant like O was replaced by the likes of....Hucklebuckets. Or, like why "my" Tops always stops (pun intended) carrying anything "good" that they initially do carry (i.e. - kefir drinks, Tropicana Pure Valencia orange juice, Coleman's prepared mustard, and large-size Iams ProActive Health Hairball Care cat food) and other critical issues du jour. Yes, I'll be cracking the code on these mysteries and many more.

In case you can't tell that I'm spinning some looney, pain killer-induced canard here, I've been indeed pulling your gold chain all this time (except the part about the haters; they really are dolts and morons). But, as far as being able to issue any solid, unequivocal answers, the best I can offer is probably a re-post from Michael Ruhlman or Buffalo's own man-about-town, Alan Bedenko. I admit it, I have many more questions than I have answers for, and other folks are sometimes more informed than me. 

What I think I may be able to best offer are some over-arching, general observations and theorizing.  Or a few anecdotes that, in their particularity, do offer lessons of a more universal sort (that degree in philosophy comes in handy here and there). I tend to be thoroughly average at deconstructing things and analyzing their moving parts in order to see what might be tweaked for the better. But my real talent (if I have any) is seeing the big, BIG picture--the consequence of so many of those antecedents--and imagining what might be, what could or should be on the table. Or, on that rare occasion where perfection manifests, what simply is, and why. 

Over the course of my short but eventful culinary journey, I've encountered a list of gastronomic malfunctions or, shall I say, under-performing culinary "concepts", proudly proffered for public consumption, that I intend to gently address or occasionally even rail against.  But more often than not, when justified, I plan to give voice to what people are actually whispering in regard to this or that restaurant, chef, and even more crucially, just plain bad (or good) ideas. And yes, there are a lot of really talented, really smart, and really creative artisans out there, doing wonderful, delicious--and sometimes even new--things with ingredients. That's what I'm most excited to explore and share. I'm confident that you're brave and honest enough to take that journey with me. 

So what will this walkabout actually look like? Well yes, I will do some restaurant reviews and features on people and places you should know about. I'm also going to write thematic pieces that look at issues, trends, and all that jazz relating to food. Although I will dutifully seek objectivity, I am sufficiently steeped in media theory to know that such a goal is practically impossible. That being a given, I'm going to embrace the subjective nature of this project and simply give you my thoughts, impressions, and provisional judgments regarding each matter at hand. And, yes, I might get it wrong on occasion. 

All I can say is that, at the end of the day, you can be sure that I'm tellin' it like it is (or like I see it!) and that your time will not be frittered away on some "everything was delicious" food review/puff piece. My goal is to get at the heart of things, the essential nature of the subject matter, without all the trappings and adornment that often divert us from addressing our initial, underlying question(s) and overall aesthetic values. 

Sure, it's what it's always been about: What is good? What is beautiful? What is the good life and how does one live it?. Yes, I'll be addressing that--if one even can?


------

Buffalo Music Hall of Fame-er and rocker Nelson Starr is known as one of Buffalo's most influential musicians, composers, and producers.  By bringing celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain to Buffalo and developing his own hit food show, All Access Pass with Nelson Starr, Nelson has dedicated himself to highlighting the region's food finds.  From pub grub to haute cuisine, Nelson is game to explore anything "that rocks" with his signature sarcasm and egalitarian ethos.

Catch Nelson Starr's appearance on No Reservations Friday, April 23rd on the Travel Channel.   

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Not many people know Chefs are in demand now and if you graduate with a culinary degree you can get a job right away http://bit.ly/cb4EbP


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I thought you showcased Buffalo very well and chose very good places to represent the city. Remember there was only about 20 minutes to show the city off. You did it very well!

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I figured that the production company had a lot of say in where everything happened. I read in an interview with Bourdain that they are ready with the cameras to capture anything spontaneous as they travel around, but they are pretty tight with the scheduling and where they choose to film. Your comments just add more insight to that. I look forward to the column.

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You certainly have a lot to say about what you plan to say. Looking forward to see where this is going.

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Taking it a bit easier with the thesaurus might be a good start.

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Comforting to know Nelson you have not forsaken any of the old notions of small town print publications where 10 words are always better than 2 or 3. It is a shame they have no copy editors on this site and if they do even more of a shame.

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Nelson, keep up the good work but pay no mind to the perpetual naysayers hiding behind their cloaks of anonymity...feed us food info but Never Feed the Trolls!
(Especially pay no credence to any thesaurus jabs - most people know that's how you really talk, heh heh:)

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Anonymity? Perhaps I should use a more revealing name like davebuffalo68, everyone knows you, right? And difference of opinion is what makes horse races, this may be difficult to believe but your viewpoint may not always be correct. This is a media outlet that depends upon written content, if something is sloppy or amateurish I'm going to say something.

replied to davebuffalo68
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Commenting on grammar or word usage is generally an admission to not having anything of value to add to the conversation. You basically just wanted to say something negative.

replied to 4matic
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Negativity is relative. If I was writing a piece & someone called me out as a lousy human being I wouldn't pay it any consequence, yet if someone made a comment about my writing I might take it under advisement, especially if my writing was a hobby rather than profession.

replied to DMZ
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I actually appreciate that Nelson is calling out people/haters.

replied to 4matic
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After hating on stories - that's rich.

replied to DMZ
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Dang, I fed the trolls.

replied to 4matic
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Yawn.

Poor blackened pig. RIP.

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Nelson,
I read this piece because I often like many of the places that you promote. You're work directed me to Bistro Europa and No Reservations, both of which I now enjoy very much. So I was interested in your column, but it was rambling, pointless, and unnecessary. Why bring the heat on yourself? Why start your regular column as an attack on "haters"? Who cares? If you want a place in the public spotlight, you have to deflect criticism more gracefully than with very public name-calling. I (and probably many others) will lose interest quickly if you use BRO to justify your existence more than you promote great finds in Buffalo.

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It would be great if Buffalo could have a food critic that actually had writing skills. Janice Okun certainly doesn't and now this.

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Just curious . .
How much primping does it take to have a perpetual 5 day beard?

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psychotic scribblings... yes this guy has a penchant for that. I don't think I've ever read such a bizarre defensive reason for being, focused around an attack on people who may question his self-proclaimed bon vivant extrodinaire status, hands off everyone, nothing remotely critical of Star or you'll be labeled a "hater."

I lauded him for trying to bring Bourdain to Buffalo, no one else bothered, so credit was due. But this incoherent acerbic introduction? Editors should be embarrassed for letting this caustic piece go to "print." BRO has definitely ventured off into misguided territory. You seem to be working diligently to turn people off.

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Yea it was a bit much, I think a nice review would have been a much better intro, but i'll hold onto my Reservations just for that.

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I invited Nelson to have a column here in the Dining section of BR. He's done some remarkable video work promoting the WNY restaurant scene, and I have found him to be very insightful in the many one-on-one conversations we've had over the course of the last year or so. Nelson writes as he speaks, without question.

I suggested that he introduce himself here, and let readers know his intentions. I have seen, firsthand, the sheer volume of complaints and personal jabs that were directed at him after he announced his bid for Buffalo to hold a place on No Reservations. The number of comments didn't fade a bit when Tony chose to come here even though Buffalo wasn't a winner. Nelson has taken a lot of flak here and on other websites; as a new writer, I can't really fault him for wanting to address what he was sure would be an onslaught of anti-Nelson comments. Mr. Bourdain addressed this very situation himself, last fall, at a Rochester speaking engagement. He basically noted that naysayers should take it easy on Nelson--who else has the nerve or dedication to pitch the seriously snowy (and rusty) chicken wing capital of America as a food-worthy destination amongst the likes of Thailand and Saudi Arabia?

So, I ask that readers give Nelson a chance. It will be interesting to see where he goes (and how he gets there) as he hones his tone and writing style. Another clear voice in Buffalo's restaurant scene cannot be a bad thing, and, at the very least, could provide some entertaining moments in our comments section.

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I look fwd to it, I suddenly have a craving for Teds as well.

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It appears that this blather was written to counter nay-saying about something that hasn't even been written yet and the fact that you chimed in with a defense, unnecessarily and fairly uncharacteristically, seems to confirm that. I had to read the article twice just to figure out that it had something to do with his intent to write a food column, which wasn’t revealed to me until like the third-to-last paragraph. I admire what Nelson has accomplished in the past and I admire what he is trying to do here (or will be doing in some future effort), but I’d be understating what I thought of his “introduction” if I called it verbose. The whole introduction thing seems kind of narcissistic to me. Why do we need an introduction anyway? I’m pretty sure that most of the readers of this blog know of Nelson already given all of the publicity that BRO provided on his efforts to get Tony Bourdain to Buffalo. Also, being a ravenous No Reservations fan and having just finished A Cook’s Tour two days ago and Kitchen Confidential the book before that, it seems like Nelson is trying a little too hard to emulate Tony, both in writing style and journalistic subject matter. My suggestion is that he use a little more prose in his journalism when his column begins. By the way, there is a difference between negativity and constructive criticism. It may be a fine line, but expect it. It’s like BRO wants everyone to dance around the city barefoot singing kumbayah.

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Perfectly said. One more aside, Im not quite sure what his credentials are as a food critic but his short bio here-and I am sorry if this is construed as negative, though every other comment here seems to be-I've followed Buffalo music off & on for the past 25 years (Mark Freeland was my idol as a kid) but to be honest, I'd never heard of Nelson until the No Reservations bit. Yet he's always made to be on par with the likes of Gary Mallaber or the Goos. What gives? Maybe some of that should have been in the "introfuction" rather than assuming that everybody knows his life story.

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Someone please open a Ted's in Los Angeles. I'll trade you all the In and Outs.

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