City March 11, 2010 3:11 PM

"How are things on Elmwood these days?"

“How are things on Elmwood these days?”
BRO submission by Lorne Opler:

What are some of the thoughts that cross our mind in the course of any day?   How about, "What am I making for dinner?" or, "I hope my rent check didn't bounce."  How about, "Why can't this country have universal health care?", and then there's the ubiquitous, "Am I too fat?"   Recently, another question crossed my mind, "How are things on Elmwood these days?"
 
What prompted this thought was my realization that it's been two years since I moved out of my beautiful attic apartment on Ashland near Bird, returning to the "True North Strong and Free."   There are a lot of things I miss about Buffalo, but top among them is EV. 
 
From the first time I landed there, I felt at home.  Sure, there are other nice parts in the city; North Buffalo and Allentown are two.   But for a newcomer to Buffalo, Elmwood was much more than a "strip".   It clearly did feel like a village.  It provided me a sense of place and comfort, and for an out of towner wanting to feel the "vibe" of the city, this was the address for me.
 
But EV was not just about comfort, or the convenience of living near so many stores.  It was the sense of connection I felt with my environment.   Coming from Toronto, where most in-town urbanites use their feet to get around, (when they're not on the subway, streetcars or buses) , Elmwood's walkability was a real draw.   Another reason why "village" seems an appropriate moniker for the neighborhood.
 
Beyond it's "ped" friendly feel, one other factor endeared me to EV; The Lexington Co-op.  I knew about the co-op long before they moved to the new site, but when I actually saw it for the first time, I was bowled over by its beautifully modern design.  It was bright, clean, airy and has a fresh, streamlined effect.   The co-op became my home away from home. It was a place where I could actually have a nice conversation with the check-out clerks, or the floor staff.  It was a place where I found even the shoppers were more approachable and friendly.   No question that is due to the fact that many people who frequented The Co-op were not just shoppers, they were shareholders, creating a sense of community and ownership that we don't feel when we shop at Top's or Wegmans.
 
If Elmwood is a village, then in my mind, The Co-op is its anchor.   With the store on the east side of Elmwood, and Delish on the west, this one block always seemed busy with foot traffic, reminding me of street life in Toronto.
 
But I can't ignore the fact that EV was also about its people; friendly, unpretentious and down-to-earth - that's what village people (no, not those ones) are known for being.    Case in point; an incident that happened to me in the winter of '07-08.   I was at my M&T branch on Elmwood withdrawing money from the ATM for my monthly rent.  I clenched the wad of bills in my hand, walked out the front door, when suddenly a gust of wind scattering my $20 bills all over the street, the bank's driveway, the parking lot, and even in bushes on the opposite side of the Elmwood.  In shock, I frantically ran all over the place trying to scoop up whatever cash I could grab.   Just then the bank's security guard came out and began running around helping me retrieve as much money as possible. Miraculously, I gathered just about all the money I lost, in no small part to the efforts of the security guard.   Without him, I would have been hundreds of greenbacks in the hole.  What better of a story to highlight the kind of people I met in EV.
 
But for all its greatness, nothings is perfect.  EV can get even better.  How?   Well, here's my wish list for what I'd like to see added to the street.    I've kept my list realistic.   Sure, we'd all like to see an H&M, and Apple Store, a Whole Foods Market.   But in the likelihood these do not pop up, here's what I want to see:
 
1) a good butcher shop
2) a kitchen supply store
3) a hardware store
4) a real bakery (not a bagel place or a coffee shop that sells pastries)
5) bike sharrows
 
Another thing I always felt would make an elegant addition, is a signature archway at each end of the village, letting people know, in no uncertain terms, they've entered a special place.
 
Finally, for any in-town neighborhood to be truly livable, it needs good transit. Unfortunately, this does not exist in EV.  When I had to spend about an hour waiting for an Elmwood bus to arrive in the middle of a weekday afternoon, it's enough to make someone want to visit a car dealership.   Fortunately, until transit improves, EV is lucky to have the Buffalo CarShare cooperative as a sustainable, enviro-friendly option to get around the neighborhood.
 
Some readers may conclude I am looking at EV through rose colored glasses.   But to any naysayers, I say, rose is a beautiful color, and that's the memory I have when I think of Elmwood; a place that no matter where I live will always be close to me.

Following are some recent Elmwood developments:

Blue Monk
Lu Modern
Zetti's
Penzey's
Spot Coffee
Coffee Culture
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Comments

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NO gateway arches please. Those are for places that need to tell you they are special. If a place is truly special it won't have to be announced.

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plus, if we install arches how do you expect real estate agents to continue surreptitiously pushing the boundaries of the "elmwood village" past the other side of forest, over the cemetery and into the niagara river?

replied to STEEL
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Agents spent a good 30 years trying to steer people away from the dreaded "West of Richmond"; maybe it's time for their industry to expand some boundaries.

replied to jackmulcahy
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Living on the west side of Richmond, I'm inclined to agree. Though there does seem to be some discrepancy as to how to brand the area as to make it seem more appealing. Ie, continuation of EV (most people won't buy it), the "Grant Street Market" (Guercios's?), the "Upper West Side?"

replied to MrGreenJeans
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So true. A gateway arch seems forced in a way, and it's something I've usually seen incorporated in superficial streetscape project in a struggling neighborhood or town. Just like feelgood murals.

http://www.cyburbia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22077
http://www.cyburbia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22078
http://www.cyburbia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22093
http://www.cyburbia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22097

Yup, that arch really helped downtown Cairo, Illinois. Uh huh.


replied to STEEL
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You mean like the "Broadway Market Village" signs on Fillmore? Major wishful thinking going on there...

The big archway welcoming you to Rochester's Center City is nice-looking but I doubt it has done anything to improve downtown Rochester's vibrancy. See also the big arch at the entrance to "Buffalo Place".

replied to Dan
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The Grant Avenue arch to chinatown in SF is legit. But that's maybe it....

replied to Dan
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here's a few more pix of arches in towns, mostly california.

http://roadsidephotos.sabr.org/rp/arches.htm

replied to Dan
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Another "I love Buffalo...just not enough to live there..." Buffalo is great at long distance relationships. Don't take this the wrong way. Toronto is great and so is EV.

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I reside in Toronto; but visit Buffalo often and friends( Torontonians) are always facinated driving up elegant Delaware ave to the park, around the stately homes and circle, Museums and up Elmwood and down to Allen and lower west side. They just are shocked that Buffalo has such great streetscapes and neighbourhoods and always want to come back for a second look.Very cool city that is obviously slowly evolving into a great alternative and surprising destination; albeit that icky east side should really be addressed

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The Elmwood bus runs roughly every 10 to 15 minutes during the afternoon, and there is no time at all on the entire schedule where there is an entire hour between buses. The longest gap for the inbound bus is the 51 minutes between the last two buses of the night (arriving at Elmwood & Delavan at 11:40 PM and 12:31 AM). If you waited an hour during a weekday afternoon, there must have been a very unusual circumstance that caused multiple consecutive buses to be dropped from the schedule entirely. Did it happen in the middle of a blizzard in the winter? (I remember a storm in December '08 that seriously disrupted the bus system.)

There is definitely room for improvement in frequency and operating speed, but the Elmwood bus currently runs at one of the highest frequencies of any of the Metro routes. If there's neighborhood in the city that *does* have decent transit (at least for getting up and down the strip) I would say Elmwood is it.

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i used to take an NFTA bus all the time in high school, but have not since. is there a 'metro-card' type system where you can load money onto a card and pay each time you get on with that? i've seen comments mentioning it, but couldn't tell if it was a suggestion or a complaint.

replied to JSmith
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No, not currently, just unlimited-ride passes for the day, weekend, or month. I've suggested this to the NFTA in their survey (see the link at http://www.nfta.com/metro/index.asp).

replied to sin|ill
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Never heard of it.

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I would love to see an EXCELLENT Soul Food restaurant on Elmwood. A hardware store would be a great addition too.

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I would like to see a few more clothing stores for the guys. Have a few 'womens only' boutiques, but so few for the guys. Would be great to totally avoid the Malls at all cost if more was offered. But, over-all, I LUV Elmwood too, was just down there yesterday for lunch and window shopped with some friends. It really is 'THE' heart of our city, I just wish that vibe extended into our downtown and other areas of Buffalo.

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Canada is a very diverse country. What few Americans understand is that a hatred of Toronto is what unites most of the different regions of Canada. I appreciate Toronto; it is a nice city. However, Montreal, Vancouver and even Halifax have more flavour.

People in Buffalo should welcome Toronto to discover the rich heritage of WNY but not get too hung up on what Toronto thinks about Buffalo.

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When Hess Village was remade a few years back, an entrance arch was added and my first thought back then was Elmwood and Forest Ave. needs an arch like this. I did mention it here in BR a couple of years ago and a few comments supported the idea. Since Lorne has kindly brought this up again, I can’t shake the image of driving down Elmwood passing the Burchfield Penny Museum, Albright Knox and then seeing an arch with the words cut in stainless steel "Elmwood Village" at the corner of Elmwood and Forest. Here’s a pic of what I am talking about from Hess VIllage. Can you image the Xmas decorations that could be hung from it? lol.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e2/HessVillageHamilton.JPG

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There was a kitchen store next to where the candy place is. It never made it. I bought some stuff from there but it was gone pretty quick

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Dolci is a real bakery.

Hardware stores can't compete with HD just up the road in Kenmore.

There was kitchen gadget store a while ago and it closed.

Butcher's can't compete with Wegmans and I have heard (because I thought the same thing about the need for one) that meat packers / processors of primals have contracts with the big supermarkets - so unless you're going to sell really high end meat (ie. not get it from a big wholesaler) you aren't going to open a butcher shop. I bet EV could support one though. Sparrs is a bit different (mostly sausages) and has been established for years and years (my Dad would get huodka there every Fall, now I go and get if for him when I'm in town).

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And yet...

Hertel has a hardware store (and there is a True Value on Delaware near Hertel) and a butcher's shop, and we are closer to Home Depot and about the same to Wegmans (and also close by Dash's and Budwey's).

"Can't complete" is an awfully absolutist phrase. I'm frankly amazed at all of the little tchochke shops on Elmwood that have been there for years. I don't understand how they can possibly sell enough to stay in business, and yet they do.

replied to bhorvath
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In some other cities, those types of shops of those shops are run as hobbies rather than as real moneymaking businesses.

Check out the West Highland neighborhood in Denver. Along the three-block long 32nd Street business district, small tchochke stores catering to the many, many professional 20-something and 30-something women almost completely dominates the area. Elmwood Avenue, for all of its foo-foo, has a far more diverse variety of retail businesses and services compared to the boys-keep-out neighborhood retail districts of many other cities.

Here's an old post I made on Cyburbia, with three pages of responses that explains the phenomenon: http://www.cyburbia.org/forums/showthread.php?t=37931

replied to JSmith
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JSmith>"Hertel has a hardware store..."

Are you referring to the Valu at Hertel & Elmwood? I think the smaller Hectors Hardware on Hertel closed a while ago.

Delaware Ave in N Buffalo has the True Value as you mention, and it has a butcher shop (Federal, in the plaza with Marshalls). Both have front parking which some might say helps them succeed and others might say is unnecessary or harmful.

replied to JSmith
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I was referring to Hertel Hardware and Plumbing. I think maybe they are more of a contracting/plumbing business than a full-service hardware, though. (Hector's building is now a hydroponics supply shop - I guess for some synergy with Hertel's three head shops.)

The butcher shop I was referring to was Johnny's Meats (although some might think of them as primarily a sausage shop like Spar's, I guess). But Federal Meats is another nearby example of a small butcher in competition with Wegmans.

replied to whatever
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I doubt the butcher or the hardware shop make money. Do the owners own the buildings? Perhaps they've been there for 30 years and have a loyal clientele like Sparrs. I don't think as a new business enterprise you could compete without a niche like high end dry aged beef or maybe fish. You don't see fish markets anymore these days either (Hayes the only one?)

True Value is a chain, and I bet that particular store doesn't make a profit either.

replied to JSmith
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True Value is a buying and marketing cooperative of locally-owned businesses. Not a chain, and not quite a franchise.

I don't know whether Johnny's owns the building. They have been at that location for about 50 years, though, so it wouldn't shock me. You're right that it is probably much harder for a startup small grocer, butcher, etc.

replied to bhorvath
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Lorne,
Thanks for a thoughtful look at a neighborhood that has many seductive qualities ...and many flaws. Your list is good, but I'd add: a true cafe. There is no beautiful cafe (think Lisbon or Vienna) in all of Buffalo (and precious few anywhere). After waiting 15 minutes for a cup of coffee and clearing a filthy table at the cluttered, cinder blocked, two-tracks-of-bad-music playing-at-once Spot yesterday, I realized there's no calm, beautiful sanctuary on the whole strip. A big flaw.

Second, the street is teeming with garbage, except for a few champion business owners who seem to care about their sidewalks. Most Elmwood businesses don't clean their curbs and sidewalks, and it's embarrassing.

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Something like Civilization, a quiet European-style coffee house in Cleveland's Tremont neighborhood. Walk through the door of the place, and it'll feel like your IQ got a five point boost.

Coffee Culture locations tend to be quiet; a good place to read, study or have a good conversation. Yeah, a chain, not authentic, not real, blah blah blah. Still, the general feel of their locations is much warmer than Spot, Cafe Aroma, or some of the other indies.

replied to EricOak
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I don't know if you were implying that Spot is an "indie" but it's arguably even less "local" than Coffee Culture. They are both based in Toronto, but a significant share of Spot is owned by a Saudi Arabian investment company. I guess Spot is a much smaller chain than Coffee Culture, though, so maybe it retains a sort of indie vibe for people.

replied to Dan
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I miss Pavlov's Togs. Tom's place - for me - embodied the true spirit of Elmwood. He also did a great job in gracing these pages with his "Walks" photo series.

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I'll bet a check of a city directory from 1950 will show how prior to the "supermarket" with plenty of taxpayer subsidized parking there were bakeries, butcher shops, fish markets, produce markets, and dry goods stores galore on every commercial street everywhere.

Perhaps the supermarket was the first neighborhood (as opposed to downtown department store) "big box" store that contributed to the demise of convenient and plentiful locally owned specialty stores where the proprietor really knew their products.

People love to love Wegmans. What they don't think about is how each such supermarket probably put ten smaller stores out of business. Supermarkets: cafe, bakery, fish market, butcher, news stand, pharmacy, produce, pet supplies, and even some hardware.

Now they want to have a liquor department too. Gee, I wonder what will happen?

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SO glad that this writer at least mentioned the Hertel Strip... North BUffalo is often "the stepchild" to EVL. Hertel is an amazing place too... very villagy, hip, fun, and the homes in and around the are are just as beautiful. As a resident of North Buffalo, I just wish the North Buffalo Business Assn. would get its act together and become as strong as "Forever Elmwood". We have the ability to be just as great. So hey... "Forever Elmwood!" come to OUR neighborhood in NoBo, and give us a few pointers on how you've truly turned the Elmwood Strip into an amazing place."

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