From Scratch: Ketchup

"From Scratch" is a series of articles that will run this week on Buffalo Rising's Food & Dining channel.  I was inspired by a local business that is making something from scratch which I found unexpected, but we'll cover that story later this week.  It got me thinking about all of the chefs I know who make things that most of us forget actually require a method or recipe, items like today's subject--ketchup.

Americans love ketchup. Up until a few years ago--when it was replaced by salsa--ketchup was our nation's favorite condiment. While the sauce gods would certainly argue that the quality of any ketchup varies by brand, I would say that when most of us think about ketchup, we all pretty much conjure up a similar reference both in color, texture and flavor profile. 

While doing research for this story I received an email from Erin Curtin.  She and her husband, Tucker, own and operate three Buffalo eateries: Lake Effect Diner, The Steer and Dug's Dive.  I've worked with them over the last few years as they've reinvented the way they do business. They are working with local farmers--fabricating sides of all-natural grass-fed local beef into top-quality burgers, purchasing fresh eggs and chicken, turning locally-raised hogs into sausages and hams, and featuring local, seasonal, produce on their menus. Lake Effect was recently featured on Guy Fieri's "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives" for these efforts, and they are to be lauded. They've changed they way they purchase, prep and finish almost every item that comes into their restaurants--a change many other restaurant owners wouldn't dare make, especially in a casual restaurant setting.



In her email, Erin detailed one of their latest undertakings. After watching her son pour processed ketchup all over a hand-pressed, grass-fed burger, she and Tucker decided that they needed to rethink things a little.  Today at The Steer, customers who order fries (hand-cut and from a local grower) are treated to a side of warm, housemade ketchup. It's a pricey effort from the restaurant's perspective, fresh red peppers and tomatoes are certainly more expensive than bulk ketchup.  It also requires tending all day on the stove, but it's worth the effort.  The ketchup has good flavor, and while it's not as thick as commercial ketchup, it is far tastier.

Tucker and Chef Zeff Bonsey worked together to develop the recipe, which we've included for you below.  Chef Bonsey describes how he and the owners work together on menu items, "It's a collaborative effort until we get the right combination.  It's trial and error, but we always find a way to implement new things until they become practical."

Erin, who surrendered her beloved Le Creuset to the task, is happy with the results, "We feel really good about what we're doing here.  It's right for us, it's right for the community, and it's really right for our customers."  Plans are underway for preservation of local tomatoes and peppers this summer; the Curtins would love to replace the ketchup in all three of their restaurants, with good, from-scratch product. 

While you're at The Steer, having some hand-cut fries and housemade ketchup, check out the Caesar salad.  Those aren't ordinary croutons; but rather housemade tater tots.  After spending some time with the Curtins, I offer this advice. When studying the menu at one of the Curtin restaurants, it may be easier to ask your server, "What isn't homemade?" 

The Steer's Tomato Ketchup

6 quarts chopped tomatoes
6 3/4 cups finely chopped red peppers
5 1/2 cups finely chopped onion
3 tbsp pickling spices
2 1/4 cup sugar
2 1/4 cup cider vinegar
1 1/2 tbsp dry mustard
1 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
2 tbsp sea salt

Cook tomatoes, peppers and onions in a large, non-reactive kettle (an enamel-coated cast iron pot is ideal) until tender (abut 20 minutes).  Press through a food mill, return to kettle.  Tie pickling spices into a bouquet garni (using a coffee filter if you don't have cheesecloth available).  Add it, along with the additional seasonings, to the tomato mixture. Bring the mixture to a rapid boil, stirring often for  about one hour.  Reduce heat and cook slowly until reduced and thickened (approximately 1 - 1 1/2 hour).  Once the mixture has reduced to your desired thickness, remove from heat and discard bouquet garni. Cool and store in a refrigerator. Makes about 6 pints. 

Stay tuned to Buffalo Rising for the rest of our "From Scratch" series this week.  Know of a Buffalo restaurant making something unexpected from scratch?  Email me.

The Steer
3151 Main Street
Buffalo, NY 14214
(716) 838-0478