Europa's Next Evolution

By Christa Glennie Seychew

Last weekend, Bistro Europa celebrated its third anniversary.  It's hard to believe that this former Subway shop-turned bohemian bistro hasn't been open longer.  Specializing in pan-European 'peasant' food, owner Mike Pijanowski's dedication to providing affordable and authentic European cuisine has garnered him a very loyal following.  In addition to being a father to young children, Pijanowski has spent the last three years pouring his heart into this quaint and unique restaurant, a bright spot on Buffalo's casual restaurant radar. Pijanowski's sacrifice and success factored into the surprise I felt when I heard from a friend of mine that he was moving back to Buffalo to buy Bistro Europa.

Chef Steve Gedra and I first met over a decade ago when he was a young lad working the line at a downtown Buffalo restaurant.  Just barely out of high school, his passion, skill and sense of humor made him stand out in the big, busy kitchen.  After "graduating" from that operation, Gedra went to work as Sous Chef at the Park Lane under Chef Dino DeBell.  A few years later, like many of our talented young chefs, he left Buffalo looking for greener pastures and big city restaurant experience.  He found himself in Boston, in the kitchen of a cool, highly-rated joint known as Blu.  From there, he bounced around a bit, spending some time cooking at Larkspur in Vail, CO before taking a gig as a private chef for an affluent Boston family who are partial owners of the Boston Celtics.

While many restaurant chefs tend to feel that they wither under the constraints of cooking privately for a family, Gedra's circumstances were unique.  The family he worked for hosted magnificent parties for charity (including the Spinazzola Foundation), where famous chefs from all over North America would lend their skills.  Gedra was able to cook alongside--and in some cases befriend--chefs like Eric Ripert, Daniel Boulud, Roberto Donna, Sam Mason, Ming Tsai, Michael Schlow and Susur Lee.  Though Gedra counts some of these chefs as influences, he notes that local chefs Dino DeBell and Matt Conray also had great impact on him as a young cook.

After four years, with his contract for private work coming to a close, and the big, crazy restaurant world beckoning to him, Gedra and his new wife, Ellen Haag Gedra--a very talented pastry chef in her own right--decided that they'd like to own their own place.  The Boston market for such an undertaking is not only exceptionally pricey, but also very competitive.  Gedra liked the idea of being closer to his family, and the economics of Buffalo combined with its rapidly evolving restaurant scene made him decide that a return to Buffalo was the right choice.  With him he brings his passion for fresh, quality ingredients and technique-driven food.

Chef Gedra and Europa's creator, Mike Pijanowski, have been friends for years, and as the bistro is transferred from one friend's hands to another's, regulars won't notice a decline in service or quality.  Over the last month the chefs have been working side by side to insure a seamless transition and will continue to do so until the New Year.  Pijanowski will soon be on to his next project; we wish him luck and will be sure to keep BR readers posted.

Gedra's connections in Boston will prove to be good news for Buffalo.  His access to outrageously fresh seafood through a friend who is one of Boston's most exclusive fish mongers is just a start.  On my recent visit to Europa, the bouillabaisse was out of this world (pictured), fresher than any other cooked seafood I've had in Buffalo in what feels like a hundred years, and the broth was deeply and complexly layered with flavor.  Stacked high with mussels, shrimp, octopi and the best cod I've ever eaten, this dish was a sheer pleasure from start to finish.

But it ain't all about the bouillabaisse, my friends.  Braised oxtail pierogi (pictured), rich meatball sliders served on handmade buns with perfect Sunday gravy, out of this world from-scratch pasta carbonara and "pulled duck" pierogi with sweet chili sauce have all hit Europa's specials list (and my table) since Gedra arrived.  Fret not, my friends who fear change, Europa classics like Spar's weisswurst--with the addition of a handmade pretzel--can still be found on the menu. 

If you're looking for a little tummy tempting reading every day, you can also "friend" Bistro Europa on Facebook where you'll note the daily specials are posted every afternoon.  A few recent updates included: fried oysters with parsley root remoulade, lobster and saffron arancini with romesco, pumpkin strachiatelle, and mussels stuffed with linguiça and fennel/lemon bread crumbs.

And none of the proceeding mouthwatering recitation even mentions the significant and earnest efforts of Gedra's wife.  She's been baking her buns off in Europa's little kitchen preparing homestyle goods that hearken grandma's best efforts, but really trump the poor old lady you've been relying on for classics like sachertorte, bread pudding, pumpkin pie with chantilly cream and homemade buttermilk doughnuts.

For those of you who regularly frequent Buffalo's best restaurants, Europa is a remarkable value, and its cozy, homey feeling is refreshing.  The bar, with a dynamic though tidy beer list and affordably priced snacks, is worth a visit on its own.  Lunch is served Tuesday through Friday.  So please consider adding Bistro Europa to your list of places to try if you haven't been there before.  If you're a regular, please welcome Steve and Ellen, and make sure to thank Mike for all of his hard work in bringing Buffalo this fantastic eatery.

Europa Bistro

484 Elmwood Avenue 

Buffalo, NY 14222 

884-1100

**An important note to diners who have never been to Europa before: Europa is ideal for couples and small groups (its largest table seats four), and it doesn't currently accept credit cards.