Regional October 26, 2009 8:45 AM

Cross Border Twin Cities?

Cross Border Twin Cities?

By Lorne Opler

The similarities are stark - both rust belt cities struggling to reinvent themselves in the 21st century.  Both were once upon a time strong manufacturing towns identified with heavy industry and a large blue collar workforce.  Both cities share glorious pasts, downtowns that were once teeming with people, and architecture that showed off the cities beautiful neighborhoods.  

That would be Buffalo and Detroit? Buffalo and Cleveland?  Buffalo and Syracuse...or Flint or Toledo?  No - none of the above. I'm referring to Buffalo and Hamilton, your blue collar cousin to the north. As a former resident of Buffalo now living in Hamilton, I frequently find myself walking through the city and making mental comparisons between both burghs. The common bonds are striking.

For those unfamiliar with Hamilton, or only see signs of it as you drive down the QEW to Toronto, Hamilton, like Buffalo, is rooted in the steel industry.  In fact, it is still known as Steel Town.  Like Buffalo, steel built the city into a thriving mid-size metropolis where smokestacks ran 24/7, and forge workers and their incomes kept the economies humming.    

Unlike Buffalo, some steel is actually still milled here, but after U.S. Steel bought Stelco, Hamilton's major steel company, jobs were lost and, like so much these days, production was shifted to outside the country. As a result, Hamilton, like Buffalo, has not only lost jobs, but revenues, taxes and perhaps most of all, its polish.

Like Buffalo, Hamilton has an East Side challenged by poverty.  Somewhat like Buffalo, Hamilton's downtown is pocked by too much surface parking, too many empty buildings, and a once thriving but now straggling enclosed shopping mall whose flagship store is Dollarama.  

But despite these negative similarities, there are also many common pluses both cities share. Hamilton has a vibrant and legendary year-round downtown farmer's market...Buffalo has a seasonal market on Bidwell Parkway, while the Broadway Market is working to breathe new life into its operations.  Both cities have lively shopping districts outside of downtown; Buffalo has Elmwood Village, Hertel, and Allentown.  Hamilton has Locke Street and the burgeoning art scene on James Street North.  Both cities have stunning turn of the century residential areas; Hamilton's Durand and Kirkendall neighborhoods prove good matches to Buffalo's Elmwood Village.  Both are very affordable places to live, where beautiful homes can be purchased for a fraction of what you'd pay in Toronto or New York City.  And both cities have rush hour traffic without the rush (and the traffic).  

Both cities are regrettably often portrayed in unflattering light by people who likely have never even visited either place. As Buffalo is considered unsophisticated by its looming big brother, NYC, so too is Hamilton maligned by its larger cousin, Toronto.  Much to the puzzlement of New Yorkers and Torontonians alike, both Buffalonians and Hamiltonians are fiercely proud of their cities, of their roots, and especially of their football teams.   

Ironically though, when Torontonians do move to Hamilton (usually because they are priced out of TDot's housing market), invariably they are pleasantly surprised by the livability of the city, close proximity to miles of trails, parks and public spaces, and a burgeoning arts scene.  Sounds a lot like what New Yorkers experience when they make a similar move to Buffalo.  

I've met many Hamiltonians who wouldn't think of moving to Toronto. They may enjoy it for a weekend, but not much more. I know there are a lot of Buffalonians who have that same relationship with New York City.     

Why might that be?  Why aren't we lured to the bright lights of Toronto and New York City beyond a couple of days, but are happy to live in their shadows?  My guess is that, beyond affordability, it has to do with what I believe are Buffalo's and Hamilton's greatest assets...it's people.  Just as I found in Buffalonians, Hamiltonians are a generously friendly folk, easy to talk to, down-to-earth, non-judgmental and uncommonly approachable. What I liked most in my time in Buffalo is the unpretentious and neighborly attitude I found all over...and I've now found that in Hamilton, too.  

Perhaps that's the reward of living in two cities that haven't lost their souls to big money, corporate logos and the misguided notion that bigger means better, while there's always room to grow.


Image:  Hamilton skyline from access2008.        

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Oh Hamilton, your biggest draw is the Ikea.

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While Hamilton's art museum still has a shopping mall exterior, its contents have much improved since the large donation by the Thompson family. It's a much stronger facility now and it's had some wonderful exhibitions.

The Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum near the airport is a real gem, too, and Buffalo could steal some ideas for its own museum.

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"Perhaps that's the reward of living in two cities that haven't lost their souls to big money, corporate logos"

Damn the logos and big money! Those greedy corporations should just take their headquarters and their jobs some where else; I'd rather stay the third poorest large city in the country than even consider adding a private sector, grubby profit-driven job. Let's keep our pride and stick with logos-barred taxpayer-financed employers. Except for the Casinos.

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There is one major difference between the two places.... Hamilton is growing population wise and experiencing job growth and investment.

We're not. Two different trajectories.

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BF"Hamilton is growing population"

Thats what a progressive view on immigration and a fair health system will do for a city.

replied to buffalofalling
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pit>" "Hamilton is growing population" Thats what a progressive view on immigration and a fair health system will do for a city."

If so, almost 90% of the top 100 U.S. metro areas must have a progressive view on immigration and a fair health system. Only Buffalo and 10 others out of 100 aren't growing.

Big list is here with red numbers for shrinking
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_of_United_States_Metropolitan_Statistical_Areas

Looks like Detroit, Pittsburgh, Cleveland, New Orleans, Buffalo, Rochester, Dayton, Toledo, Syracuse, Youngstown, Scranton.

replied to Armchair MBA
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While Hammertowns population maybe growing I still think we have way more going then they do. I was there saturday for a concert and the urban planning (or lack of) is terrible. Furthermore there was literally nothing open and very few people. I think comparing them to Niagara Falls, NY would be more applicable.

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From Toronto , been to Hamilton and many times to buffalo;spend the extra 30 minutes on the QEW to buffalo ;damn more interesting,urban and architecturally superior as well character.

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One difference between Hamilton and Buffalo is the approach toward regionalization. Hamilton has absorbed many suburbs and now has a population almost twice Buffalo's (505k vs 272k) but the Hamilton metro area is still considerably smaller (700k vs 1.3m for Buffalo). The other big difference is that Hamilton is on the sweet side of the Falls economically. Their shipping and industrial waterfront was strengthen, not destroyed by the St. Lawrence Seaway.

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First, Ikea is not in Hamilton. It's in Burlington; you drive by Hamilton to get there.

Second, I grew up in Hamilton. The Steel companies made the city. What happened to Stelco affected my father. But the city wasn't dragged down. The people were able to move on to new jobs, in the city and outside of the city. There has been much more job growth in Hamilton. People were not and are not moving away. I would say that 80% of my friends from school all still live there.

Hamilton's art scene including music is pretty good. You can always jump on the train to visit TO. No need to worry about parking.

Hamilton has also been the back drop in so many movies. There are world famous actor/comedians from Hammertown and surrounding areas like Burlington.

Next time you are on your why to TO, you may want to make a stop in the Steel town.

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Lorne, thanks for the great article. Ive been through Hamilton but never to it. Judging by your description it sounds like a place I would like.

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Lorne: thanks for the insights; I never drew the parallels beyond the similarities of each city's industrial base and history.

One question - which may serve as a basis for a future piece - I'd be interested in learning how Hamilton's elected leadership compares to that of Buffalo's.

Buffalo has been long a 'stepchild' of Albany, on beckoned knee pleading for any crumbs left behind by NYC. Is that true with Hamilton in its relationship with the Province of Ontario as well?

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